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What did you do to your Avalanche today?

Now thats funny right there especially if you live in South with all the Pollen everywhere.
Oh, trust me. We have the pollen up here in the north too. Achoo, lol

Funny story. My wife used to work for the local air pollution agency. They would get calls all the time from hacked off citizens that didn't believe that the yellow dust covering their car was pollen. It had to be from that nasty company over there. :beating:
 
LOL, I started yesterday! Was a tip about using WD-40-Silcone spray, to help windows. Everything was working just fine, but thought I would use this tip! Big Mistake. Window is now down & having to remove door panel. Even got 3 doors somehow stuck open, couldn't close after messing with that not thinking to check YouTube. After 3 hours found a quick fix took less than a minute or 2 to fix them.
 
LOL, I started yesterday! Was a tip about using WD-40-Silcone spray, to help windows. Everything was working just fine, but thought I would use this tip! Big Mistake. Window is now down & having to remove door panel. Even got 3 doors somehow stuck open, couldn't close after messing with that not thinking to check YouTube. After 3 hours found a quick fix took less than a minute or 2 to fix them.
What did you spray silicone on that caused your windows to stop and doors to be stuck open? What was the quick fix?
 
Installed a Hayden 678 Trans cooler, dropped Tranny pan and replaced filter and both shift solenoids since I was there. Shifts smooth now...:cheers: getting ready for camping. I have a gauge on order since my " base ' edition didn't come with much...I'm ok with that.
 
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Hey Avalanche fans, I just picked up (not literally :D ) an 07 AV. Used to have a Yukon years ago and had to get back to GM truck experience.
Thought I would try to see who's doing what to their AV daily. If this is already a post, I missed it and will delete this if necessary. Otherwise . . . . . What did you do to your AV today?
I also picked up an 07 Avalanche. I did the recommended add on of a splash shield over the AFM valve in the oil pan and the replacement of the driver's side valve cover with the latest design to decrease oil usage. I haven't driven enough to see if it made a difference yet in oil usage. I also cleaned out the lifters to try and quiet down the famous lifter tick, but it still ticks until the motor gets warm, but it's much better than before now that I've done that and added Mobil high mileage oil. While I was at it, I replaced the oil level sensor, the front differential actuator motor, ball joints, upper control arms, end links, hubs, lug nuts and tire pressure sensors. Now I feel like I have a really great truck, totally worth all of the work.
 
I also picked up an 07 Avalanche. I did the recommended add on of a splash shield over the AFM valve in the oil pan and the replacement of the driver's side valve cover with the latest design to decrease oil usage. I haven't driven enough to see if it made a difference yet in oil usage. I also cleaned out the lifters to try and quiet down the famous lifter tick, but it still ticks until the motor gets warm, but it's much better than before now that I've done that and added Mobil high mileage oil. While I was at it, I replaced the oil level sensor, the front differential actuator motor, ball joints, upper control arms, end links, hubs, lug nuts and tire pressure sensors. Now I feel like I have a really great truck, totally worth all of the work.
You mention the ticking goes away after it's warm Have you checked you exhaust bolts? Could be a snapped bolt vs. lifter.
 
I also cleaned out the lifters to try and quiet down the famous lifter tick, but it still ticks until the motor gets warm, but it's much better than before now that I've done that and added Mobil high mileage oil.
Like Frito said, check the exhaust manifold bolts, directly under the valve covers. You'll likely find a 2+ broken off bolts, probably towards the rear. My 2010 has a broken bolt on each side and the tick stops fairly quickly when warming up. I'm choosing to leave it alone until it gets worse.
 
Today I took the rear tailgate handle cover off and epoxied the plastic which holds the lock cylinder.
One if the plastic catches was broken.
When I got it, I used a zip tie around the tab to keep the cylinder from falling inside and had it protrude out of the handle hole. So glad to remove it.
I used another zip tie to secure the plastic around the cylinder then epoxied a bit more being careful not to get any on the lock.
I put pressure on the lock during this so I would know if it would fall out from pushing in the key l. It held well.
Edit for spelling.
 
I spent two hours trying to send back some custom upper control arms that the site said would fit my 03 but are 1/2 inch too narrow at the frame brackets. But the on-line seller is awesome to work with and hopefully they will help me find ones that fit.
That leaves me waiting so I am back to bang, and bang, and lube, and bang, and heat, and bang my torsion bar keys some more in route to installing a leveling kit. Yesterday when removing the upper control arm bolts I snapped off the head of one and now that’s another bang, bang, penetrating oil, bang, bang, bang, blow torch, cussing, bang, bang and banging some more. Maybe tomorrow, while waiting to sort out the second new upper control arm purchase I will begin swapping out my rear coils out for longer, stiffer, skyjacker coils in the rear to help with the load in the rear wooden boxes that slide in and out. Since I have had new air bags I might throw in them also. I still can’t find rear sway bar end links two inches longer than stock. Everyone seems to have them for every other truck but not for old school Av’s, so it looks like I am making my own adjustable ones.

I started with just a leveling kit, but then decided on altered upper control arms, longer springs in the rear, and while apart, shoot, might as well change the lower control arm bushings, upper and lower ball joints, jounce stops, add longer shocks, longer sway bar links, and heck might as well repack the front bearings, Maybe I’ll get the 2nd battery (sitting unopened, but on a trickle charger) mounted and wired up after that. I have not spent money on my 03 Av cept for a tranny at 150k and new slotted an drilled brake rotors a couple months ago, but at 220k everything is still great, I had no issue with front suspension at all, except I wanted to level it. Then the wife said “ ok, go ahead and fix the Av up a little“ so I loaded up my garage with a few months worth of upgraded project parts. I even bought a welder to teach myself to weld so I can work on my ranch hand bumper to frame attachments and make my own overland racks for the back that will go over a soft top.

My birthday is not until the end of the month but I caught the Amazon driver dropping off some boxes today. Looks like the ‘lil lady went and bought a Napier(?) bed tent, mattress, and a few off road lights. What a keeper! The wife!

Ill post pics of my progress, or lack thereof, soon.
 
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Started out this morning wanting to take the avy to work. She would not start and I didn't have the three hours to figure it out. So I ran the codes and noted that the cluster & gauges would not light up, stabilitrak off, no lock/unlock, and headed out in my commuter car. I had only a few minutes today to do a little internet searching. The consensus was "BCM, Battery, Ground, Fuse and so on" ugh

Decided not to buy a battery since I had power and it was a 50/50 chance. After work, check the voltage and it showed 12.2 with no load and 11.6 with headlights on. Decided to put a jump pack on it and had 13.6v. Still no crank, dead gauges, and new codes.

After several hours checking fuses, lots of Electronic Cleaner, wiggling wires, and pulling apart the BCM I was about to walk into the house to change into "get dirty clothes". So I give her that "one last try" and she lights up. Absolutely no clue why... Leads me to think a ground issue and is likely to rear its ugly head again. I guess that's why I carry AAA coverage lol

Now back to what's important... I finished vinyl wrapping the trim pieces after a couple of burnt fingers and kuckles. Super happy with the look and the camera makes it look lighter but in person, it is a really good-looking "dark wood look". Summer will be the test of durability but I bought plenty so I could rewrap if needed. If I can get 2 years with a rewrap for $100 all in I'm ok with that.
 
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Wow !!! Impressive..love the wood look. Can't do my 02. Nothing to cover...so I changed the transfer case fluid with Auto Trac II. Gravy job. Completes the whole bottom end of fluid changes...Woohoo !!
 
The dealer that Im having fix my fuel tank and replace my rear shackles called and said that they needed to do the leaf spring bushings. Problem being the wanted to remove both leaf springs, then pound the old bushings out and install new ones. 8 hours labor in total "just in case for rust".

Long story short I'm ordering two dorman leaf springs for $225 each because they say it will save me atleast 4 hours in labor.. somehow. (It's not like you're struggling any less to out them back in.. so that was what.. to deal with the bushings? ) Not to mention whatever they wanted to charge for bushings. The end cost will be similar. But I'll have a pair of perfectly good leaf springs lying around by the time it's done I guess. Maybe ill clean them up and replace the bushings myself.
 
The dealer that Im having fix my fuel tank and replace my rear shackles called and said that they needed to do the leaf spring bushings. Problem being the wanted to remove both leaf springs, then pound the old bushings out and install new ones. 8 hours labor in total "just in case for rust".

Long story short I'm ordering two dorman leaf springs for $225 each because they say it will save me atleast 4 hours in labor.. somehow. (It's not like you're struggling any less to out them back in.. so that was what.. to deal with the bushings? ) Not to mention whatever they wanted to charge for bushings. The end cost will be similar. But I'll have a pair of perfectly good leaf springs lying around by the time it's done I guess. Maybe ill clean them up and replace the bushings myself.

If you try to hammer the bushing out there is a very good chance the spring will break
 
If you try to hammer the bushing out there is a very good chance the spring will break
Well, either way. Same cost to me and I can't justify paying a tech four hours labor to be gentle about it. When I say hammer on it, I didn't quite mean literally. Realistically. It will probably just set around till I find someone that needs it or I list it online to get it out of the shed. Haha
 
Scrap metal is bringing a good return right now and those springs can be heavy enough to return some nice coin.
 
I'd save 'em at least till next spring break...Uuugh sorry ev1. Dad joke! But really thats where dealers make their money. I've even had them charge me for the shop towels they cleaned their hands with! Best go to a small shop that specializes in suspension or even full repairs but they dont sell cars and they want you to come back next time.
 
Well, I have a load of tips from my first day here. First on my list are replacing the corroded ground cable and a tranny tune up. Later I'll be going with new exhaust including headers, now that I know what that famous ticking is. I'm also thinking about a new radiator and fan. I tried sanding and buffing my head lamps. They came out better but the pits are too deep. Totally cheap enuf online for new ones all around.
 
I'd save 'em at least till next spring break...Uuugh sorry ev1. Dad joke! But really thats where dealers make their money. I've even had them charge me for the shop towels they cleaned their hands with! Best go to a small shop that specializes in suspension or even full repairs but they dont sell cars and they want you to come back next time.
Yeah, i sadly have never been able to swear by any particular shop i've been to. We have a small shop right next to the house that we generally have do our small repairs. But they charge just under dealer labor rates ($90 vs $100) and I cant say my service has been absolutely exceptional. They do good work, but they trust my abilities to diagnose things a little too much, and it's hard for me t oget them to price things out for me. They're happy for me to bring parts in, and they'll just charge by the book unless rust is an issue. (no real quotes). They also are so busy that they dont take the time to diagnose additional work, such as my slow coolant leak. They guess and want me to throw parts at it more or less. This ontop of GM's warranties for new parts creates an ever shifting balance of where I have work done. (they guessed the coolant pump based on high mileage and it looked a little wet). More or less, it comes down to part costs vs warranty value.

The current project had started out with me needing to replace the shackles, both fuel pumps, and one tank completely. Local shop qoted me 3.5 hours per each tank + 1 hour for rust. (8 hours total) whereas the dealer quoted me 2.5 hours for the aux tank, 3.5 hours for the front tank, and nothing additional for rust. Ontop of this, the GM fuel pumps were only marginally more expensive than quality aftermarkets ($220 for the front, $250 for the rear. (I could get the rear cheaper on RA, but i dont trust a $50-125 pump ) and have a 24 month, unlimited mile warranty that includes labor. (with a lifetime parts-only warranty). They also diagnosed my coolant leak was from the quick disconnect fittings on my heater core. ($275 fix). Which makes sense. from the symptoms. (you can smell it, cant see it, no signs of a gasket issue. Didnt notice it for the first few months I owned it, but seemed to burn about .25 gallon/ month during the winter)

When I was told about the whole spring ordeal, I called the local guys and they quoted me the same labor as the dealer, so there's not point in me having it done at two different places, especially when the spring is what damaged the fuel tank in the first place.

This is in contrast to when i had the rear axle seals and bearings replaced. The dealer quoted me somewhere around 5 hours to do them, local guy was 3.5. Dealer wanted something crazy like $30 for the seals and $50 for the bearings (each). I bought timken bearings for $7 each and the seals for $4.

Personally I wish i had the tools and equipment to safely and efficiently work on it myself. (Though, in hindsight of the current cost I could have bought everything I needed) But that would still be from a novice POV working on things and much of what I've done I'd just assume let a professional handle.

Well, I have a load of tips from my first day here. First on my list are replacing the corroded ground cable and a tranny tune up. Later I'll be going with new exhaust including headers, now that I know what that famous ticking is. I'm also thinking about a new radiator and fan. I tried sanding and buffing my head lamps. They came out better but the pits are too deep. Totally cheap enuf online for new ones all around.
Yeah, I went with a new amazon set for mine and they look gorgeous compared to the old faded ones. My light mounts were broken, so It was a must for me. Plus, my fog lights were missing completely. Man, it took the dealer a couple tries to get the right pieces for that. The screws are like $0.80 each, but the metal clips they screw into are more like $7.
 
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Had to swap my winter studded tires to summer tires. Paid the man and walked out the door- snow starts falling! o_O Luckily it blew over after an hour. I just got this Av so eventually i'd like each set of tires mounted on their own wheels so I can swap at my own convenience. Studded winters, siped winters, and all-terrains (on/off road).
 
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