• If you currently own, previously owned or want to own an Avalanche, we welcome you to become a member today. Membership is FREE, register now!

what do i use to make the cladding smooth and paintable to match the body

0

004AVRidin24s

New Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2004
Messages
2
Location
Mass
:E:

I want to paint my cladding to match the factory paint. I know some people say a urethane-based product. Does anyone know exactly what to use that won't peel off or look crappy? I know you have to sand it and prime it a few times to get it smooth enough for paint, but I would like to know what products are recommended. Thanks for your help.


 
Send Pm to member

DAVE02Z66...he has painted several
 
Well i just got through sanding and painting mine this week, and boyyyyyyyyyyyy let me tell you, the first guy that did this must have been crazyyyyyyyyyyyyy :E:. It was alottttttttt of work but i am very happy with the results, i used PPG products on mine. first after sanding, apply one coat of adhesion promoter, then a coat of K36 epoxy primer(will look like poop after this with the hair on the plastic standing up, but will sand smooth) then a few coats of regular filler primer, i used DBU urethane basecoat, then a few coats of Concept 2021 clear.
 
WHEN YOU SANDED, WHAT GRIT DID YOU USE AND DID YOU FIND ONE TYPE WORKED BETTER THEN ANOTHER? DID YOU HAND SAND, DISK SAND OR WHAT?
THANKS FOR ANY INFO YOU CAN GIVE
 
I'm doing mine at the moment. I started with 80 grit, then switched to 40 grit, then to 60 grit because I could not find 40 grit paper for the mouse sander.
40 grit is faster, but 60 is also good.

So far I've only done a couple of panels with the 40-60 grit. I tried 120 grit on one of the almost-finished panels and it looks like it will work well. I'm going to try 220 grit at the very end, before the adhesion promoter and primer.
 
40 gritt does make it a lot fast but make sure you sand everything again with 180 or 220 grit or the paint will not stick properly. I sanded everything with 180. It took a lot longer but came out nicely. I did use 80 grit to sand some places like some parts of the sail panels where I had to sand by hand , and then I used the 180 grit to finish it off and it came out just as well in those spots. Good Luck and it is A LOT of work.
 
i used a dual action sander with 80 grit, then went over everything again with 150 grit, also used a mouse sander and some hand sanding, it took me about 16hrs of sanding to get just the lower cladding smooth, and about 130 pieces of sandpaper.
 
004AVRidin24s said:
:E:

I want to paint my cladding to match the factory paint. I know some people say a urethane-based product. Does anyone know exactly what to use that won't peel off or look crappy? I know you have to sand it and prime it a few times to get it smooth enough for paint, but I would like to know what products are recommended. Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...
I would recommend a urethane paint system. They are the most common now and the urethane is naturally flexible. Althought I strongly recommend whoever paints your cladding to add a flex additive to your paint and primer. There is a product out called Bulldog that is a 3 in 1 product. It is a plastic parts prep as well as a flex additive for paints and primers it also serves as a bonding agent when painting over other painted plastic parts.
 
Lancheman said:
WHEN YOU SANDED, WHAT GRIT DID YOU USE AND DID YOU FIND ONE TYPE WORKED BETTER THEN ANOTHER? DID YOU HAND SAND, DISK SAND OR WHAT?
THANKS FOR ANY INFO YOU CAN GIVE
Click to expand...
I used 80 grit on the body panels initially and 40 grit on the bed panels then went with 180 grit after the first priming and 400 wet sand paper for the final before painting
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top