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What is the best speaker/sub/amp?

Hey DS, I understand what your saying but I think when people ask "what is the best speaker\sub\amp?" they really mean "what is the best speaker\sub\amp for my situation?"

If they were to say it like that then you can give them options. Obviously you have a lot of experience with equipment, as do I. So I always recommend quality equipment from a reputable manufacturer that will suit the customers needs and install without any problems. Also if you've been in the business for awhile you know what manufacturers will have warranty and return loopholes and a high rate of defective problems.

I would never recommend equipment from manufacturers that will not warranty product without a hassle, or equipment that has a high rate of failure.

There are a lot of companies that take care of their dealers and customers and I would highly recommend them i.e. Alpine, JL Audio, D.E.I. etc.

Just my .02.
 
at least for subwoofers, the jl midgate with jl 500 watt mono amp made my daughter's hair move.  great system.  i have it for sell (see posting). bought her a new truck.
 
Kicker said:
I'm a Pure "Kicker" Man.
Thats what I have as well......I have ss components in the doors....the best I have heard......really suprised me.....
 

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I think that the 80/20 rule can apply to the sound quality of in-vehicle audio.
Basically, the overall sound quality will be based on 80% installation quality and only 20% component quality.
 
I'm partial to Infinity Subs, rather pricy, but as DS says, "You get what you pay for"

I will say this about any system: Make sure you get it new with warranty, don't buy subs or amps from a buddy and then pay 500 bucks for someone to install it only to find out something doesn't work right.  You'll lose money and your buddy!
 
I can't beleive it has been eight months since anyone has made a post here. Did ya'll give up or come up with a solid answer. As a new member a figured I would give some of my thoughts. DS was on the right track, but was leaving out a couple of things. Recently, JBL did a study. They took hundreds of random people from college students to trained listeners like  the ones that work for the magezines. They gave them all the same blind listening test. I've been in the room; it is pretty cool. This test was not to prove that their speakers were better, the test was to determine a reference to what people like to hear. The results were very surprising. Everyone has the same the same idea as to what GOOD sound is. Sure, some people want more bass or more treble some times but these are simple level adjustments. The problem is that most people have not heard really good sound.

The best way to get an idea of what your system should sound like is to go to a local, not big box, home electronics store. Get a demo of a set of nice home speakers. Listen to a CD with a good recording in two channel. You should hear something you've never heard before and there are no words to discribe it. Even at this level, speakers are the biggest variable. I've listened to two pairs of speakers both sets worth more than $12,000 and there was a huge difference. Both sounded good but only one was convincing enough to make you forget that you were listening to a pair of speakers.

I won't bore you too much more, but if I could say anything, it is that the single, most important thing about your system is the installer. If the person does not have a healthy understanding of how sound works and how to set up a car, you don't have a chance. I'm not talking about EQs or fancy processors since most of this make things worse. But simble things like where to mount tweeters (not just where they look cool)and phasing. In cars, speakers point in all different directions and that effects phasing. There is no right or wrong way to connect the + and - on the speakers. There have been many cars that by wiring the passenger side speaker backwards, it would actually fix the sound. Also, when tweeters are mount in the pillar like on the bose systems in our trucks, the tweeters should be wired opposite (+,-) of the mids. This will actually make the two speakers work together the way they are designed.

OK, thats propably too much. Just find the best installer in your area and stick with him.



 
lteeples said:
... most important thing about your system is the installer. ?If the person does not have a healthy understanding of how sound works and how to set up a car, you don't have a chance. ?

good point lteeples,
 
I have to take exception to some of your assertions. The first and most obvious is the statement you made about always wiring pillar mounted tweets out of phase to the mids. I am not going to sit here and say that this would never be a viable tuning option, but to say that it should always be done is just not true.

The problem with reversing phase is the fact that it will only have the desired effect within a band of frequencies. Once the wave form becomes too long or too short, you will be out of phase again. Obviously, if you are not working with a point-source setup, this may be more feasible, since the offending frequencies may fall outside the crossover points. It is also worth mentioning that phase and time alignment are other ways to remedy auto phase anomalies.

The fact is, there really is no best setup for a car. This is because it depends on too many subjective factors. If this was not the case, every speaker manufacturer would produce drivers to one set of parameters.

Every vehicle also has unique sonic characteristics that must be accounted for. Whereas door mounted woofers and sail panel tweeters may yield a rock-solid center image with an impressive stage width in one particular car, the same setup in another may sound worse than your factory system.

Another thing to take into consideration is the speaker's off-axis response. If a speaker has good off-axis response, it will be more amenable to less-than-perfect speaker placement. Using the same locations with an inferior response will sound very harsh. In a car, sound from the radiating surface is only half of the story. The human brain takes the direct sound and sound reflections and creates a sonic syllogism resulting in how the speaker sounds in your unique situation.

Automobiles are very hostile to high-end audio replication. Another thing you will see in a high-end listening room is an exorbitant level of soft surfaces. All of the hard surfaces in the mobile atmosphere necessitates great care be taken to control sonic reflections. By doing this, you can use to your advantage an otherwise disruptive element.

Another factor one must consider is cost. Nearly always, the question is not just what will sound best for my particular situation but, what will sound best for my budget.

Another issue unique to the car audio realm is that of near-field response. When the aforementioned study was conducted, there is no doubt that the speaker placement was optimal to negate the issues of a chaotic near field. This is not a luxury afforded to a mobile install. For this reason, auditioning speakers in a showroom lends nothing to your understanding of what that speaker will sound like in your car.

There is much more, but i think this shows there is no ?best.? There are just better alternatives for different situations. However, I will say this to the issue of installation. I can take a pair of Pyramid 6.5? coaxials and make them sound better than a set of Focal Utopia Berylliums installed by someone not handed in the ways of speaker placement and surface treatment.
lteeples said:
I can't beleive it has been eight months since anyone has made a post here.  Did ya'll give up or come up with a solid answer.  As a new member a figured I would give some of my thoughts.  DS was on the right track, but was leaving out a couple of things.  Recently, JBL did a study.  They took hundreds of random people from college students to trained listeners like  the ones that work for the magezines.  They gave them all the same blind listening test.  I've been in the room; it is pretty cool.  This test was not to prove that their speakers were better, the test was to determine a reference to what people like to hear.  The results were very surprising.  Everyone has the same the same idea as to what GOOD sound is.  Sure, some people want more bass or more treble some times but these are simple level adjustments.  The problem is that most people have not heard really good sound.

The best way to get an idea of what your system should sound like is to go to a local, not big box, home electronics store.  Get a demo of a set of nice home speakers.  Listen to a CD with a good recording in two channel.  You should hear something you've never heard before and there are no words to discribe it.  Even at this level, speakers are the biggest variable.  I've listened to two pairs of speakers both sets worth more than $12,000 and there was a huge difference.  Both sounded good but only one was convincing enough to make you forget that you were listening to a pair of speakers.

I won't bore you too much more, but if I could say anything, it is that the single, most important thing about your system is the installer.  If the person does not have a healthy understanding of how sound works and how to set up a car, you don't have a chance.  I'm not talking about EQs or fancy processors since most of this make things worse.  But simble things like where to mount tweeters (not just where they look cool)and phasing.  In cars, speakers point in all different directions and that effects phasing.  There is no right or wrong way to connect the + and - on the speakers.  There have been many cars that by wiring the passenger side speaker backwards, it would actually fix the sound.  Also, when tweeters are mount in the pillar like on the bose systems in our trucks, the tweeters should be wired opposite (+,-) of the mids.  This will actually make the two speakers work together the way they are designed.

OK, thats propably too much.  Just find the best installer in your area and stick with him.
 
Good Points Dmack,  In high school on a very very limited budget i built a system from left over amps and speakers from friends(with a decent deck).  All the rich kids systems couldn't compare.  Truth is i spent every weekend rewiring the whole system and playing with different speaker placement and boxes, I was a little obsessed..  But as good as that system sounded, In another car it would of been crap.. 

the biggest problem in cars is those damn rear speakers..  Not to mention a drivers speaker aimed at your leg and a passenger one right at your head, parametric EQ help but throw in passengers and that goes out the window..  I agree with Dmack cars are just not the perfect building block...
Bottom line is that it comes down to the type of music you listen to,  And how good of an ear you have.  If you have a good ear go to a "true" stereo shop, someone that builds systems for sound quality, not just bling,
Building nice systems is truly a dying art.  With so many people moving to mp3's, people are losing the ear for quality.

I'm was fortunate enough to have lived close to speakerworks/USD (true pioneers in car audio) And I'm  still impressed with a simple system with a pair of waveguides and nice 6 1/2's in the doors with a pair of tens in the back...  6 speakers,

For most people adding a little bottom end is enough.... 


Just my .02
 
I have to say this has been very interesting reading - and it really brought home to me how a person uneducated in audio equipment can really be taken in.  When I have gone to stereo shops, the salesman quickly realizes I don't know squat about audio, the whole tone of the conversation changes.  It's kind of like "here, just put this stuff in to the tune of 2500 bucks, and you'll be fine."...sort of the pat on the head type thing.  Know what I mean? 

You all seem to be very knowledgeable on this subject.  Could I challenge you to take this a step further for us audio idiots?  Maybe explain watts/amps and what they mean to each other?  What's a crossover?  You know, just basic info.  Why do I need a certain size amp?  Tune a sub?  What does "push" mean?  "In" phase "out of" phase?????  Have absolutely no clue on that parametric EQ thing...

I've researched on the web for info, but each store has their own info geared toward their own equipment.  Is there a way to cut through all the crap and maybe start a thread with audio 101 for idjits?  Or is there site somewhere that I haven't found that will explain all this simply?  :help:

I hope this makes sense.. :p
 
MoAv said:
I have to say this has been very interesting reading - and it really brought home to me how a person uneducated in audio equipment can really be taken in.  When I have gone to stereo shops, the salesman quickly realizes I don't know squat about audio, the whole tone of the conversation changes.  It's kind of like "here, just put this stuff in to the tune of 2500 bucks, and you'll be fine."...sort of the pat on the head type thing.  Know what I mean? 

You all seem to be very knowledgeable on this subject.  Could I challenge you to take this a step further for us audio idiots?  Maybe explain watts/amps and what they mean to each other?  What's a crossover?  You know, just basic info.  Why do I need a certain size amp?  Tune a sub?  What does "push" mean?  "In" phase "out of" phase?????  Have absolutely no clue on that parametric EQ thing...

I've researched on the web for info, but each store has their own info geared toward their own equipment.  Is there a way to cut through all the crap and maybe start a thread with audio 101 for idjits?  Or is there site somewhere that I haven't found that will explain all this simply?   :help:

I hope this makes sense.. :p
You post could elicit literally volumes of text. However, I will give you a brief rundown of car audio basics.

Head unit: This is commonly known as your radio or your CD player. Most have a built-in amplifier for running full-range speakers such as those installed from the factory. However, in a high-end system, the radio power will never be used. A good head unit will have several sets of low level outputs?commonly known as RCA outputs. These pass the same signal as does the powered outputs, however they are not amplified and operate at relatively low voltage. The voltage of the low-level outputs, however, is very important. The more output voltage you have means the more power your amplifiers will make before clipping. Clipping is when your amplified output attempts to exceed the product of the input voltage and the operating power. It is called clipping because, instead of producing a pretty round parabolic wave form, the tops and bottoms of the waves are square, or ?clipped.? This is also known as distortion, and this also means death to speakers.

Crossover/processor: A crossover is the unit that divides up the audio spectrum into units manageable for your individual speakers. For instance, a woofer cannot produce the same portion of the spectrum as can the tweeter?so why try? A crossover will allow you to send only, for instance, 80hz and down to your subs, discarding the remaining portion of the spectrum. Likewise, will will only want to send high frequencies to your tweeters?say, 35khz and up. If you try to make the tweeters do the work of the subs, they should last all of about three seconds before you release the speakers magic smoke. The more channels a crossover has, the more segments you can divide the sonic spectrum into.

A processor is usually combined with a crossover, however, sometimes it is a standalone unit. Not everyone needs a processor, as this is to fine-tune your system to a more audiophile level. A processor can delay signal to any of your channels to allow the sound to reach your ears at the same time. It can align the phase of the speakers to adjust for sonic reflections, it can adjust independently small portions of the spectrum?also know as an equalizer?and it can add cool effects like echo to simulate different listening environments.

Amplifiers: An amp is the testicular grunt of your system. Amps are measured in watts. Be sure to pay attention to watts RMS, or route mean squared. This is the amount of power your amp can comfortably sustain. The max wattage is usually produced in a lab under unrealistic, unsustainable conditions. Wattage=voltage*amperage. So, a safe means of figuring what an amp is capable of doing is this: Take your input voltage?12 volts?and look at the fuse ratings?lets say, 40 amps. 12*40=480 watts. This is the higher limit of what the amp is capable of producing for a sustained period. However, all of the wattage is not being produced as music wattage. A percentage of this is being used up in the amplification process. The amount of wattage produced as music power is called the amp's efficiency. For instance, if the amp has 50% efficiency, then that 480 watts is reduced to 240 watts of music. The other 240 watts is being outputted as heat. Most amps nowadays have an efficiency of at least 65%, with many digital amps having an efficiency of around 85-90%. Obviously, these amps will produce more music power, while using less amperage. The down side to digital, or ?class D?, amps is that the amplification process produces high frequency switching noise. Therefore, these amps can only be used for low frequency production. The up-side to this is the fact that higher frequencies can be produced by amplifiers with lower efficiency, because not as much power is needed to produce a proportional level of this portion of the spectrum. There are also variable such as impedance curves and so on that we really don't need to get into during a remedial survey of this subject.

Speakers: Most everyone is familiar with coaxial speakers. These are the inexpensive speakers that you can find at Wal-Mart. These are identified with a larger speaker with smaller speaker suspending in the center. If you are trying to assemble a system of any degree of quality, then treat these like the plague. A higher-end option is that of component speakers. This is a set that consists of a set of mids/woofers, a set of tweeters, and sometimes a separate set of mids. These will also come with a passive crossover, though sometimes, you can buy individual component speakers without purchasing the set. The word ?passive? refers to a crossover that is on the amplified section of the music stream. This is to say that it is located between the amp and the speaker, rather than between the head unit and the amp. A crossover that falls between the head unit and the amp is called an ?active? crossover, or sometimes an electronic crossover. An easy way to think about this is: If a crossover required a power input, then it has to turn on to work. When it turns on, it becomes ?active. If a crossover's only inputs are speaker wires, then it just sits there waiting to filter music?therefore it is ?passive.? Usually, Active crossovers are superior to passive crossovers. The reason for this is that it is easier to filter a low-powered signal without introducing a large amount of distortion than it is to accomplish the same with a high-powered (amplified) signal.

The term ?phase? refers to the portion of the wave form that is being heard. For instance, imagine a parabolic (up and down) wave form. If the wave from one speaker reaches your ear and the wave form is at the top and when the wave from the other side reaches your ear, it is at the bottom, you are hearing  output that is ?out of phase.? Your brain will interpret these two conflicting wave forms as a cancellation. That is to say that, it will sound somewhat as if the canceled frequencies are not even being produced. Cancellation can be interpreted by your brain as it interprets signals from your left and right ears, or it can occur mechanically between two speakers in proximity of each other. A good example of this is swapping the + and ? on one of two subs. You will hear that they are playing, but you will not hear very much output, and no bass at all. That is because these lower frequencies are being canceled out. The reason that it is sometimes beneficial to invert the phase on one tweeter or mid is because, at certain distances, the inverted phase of the speaker will allow two speakers with different path-lengths (the distance of the speaker to your ear) to actually be in phase when processed by your brain. This is because higher frequencies have a much shorter wave form, and therefore they can be aligned with minimal differences in distance. This is also known as phase alignment, and can be accomplished by many higher-end processors.

Subwoofers: These are also known as woofers, though this is a misnomer. A woofer is a speaker capable of producing somewhere between 40 and 1000 or so hz. A sub-woofer, is a speaker capable of producing sound to the lower limits of the audible spectrum?around 20hz. These are the large speakers capable of inducing bowel movements and female happy times. You really need to know more about subs than you do other speakers?that is, if you are a audio novice. This is because certain specs will cause greater variances than with higher frequency speakers. This is true also because, most novices want bass before anything else.

The first spec is size, or displacement. When it comes to being loud, there is no substitution for size?sorry, this is the truth. There is a saying in the world of racing: There is no replacement for displacement. This is also true when it comes to bass. However, larger speakers can have a difficult time being articulate. Articulation of a speaker is known as the ?attack? and ?decay? times, however, this is better left for Audio 102. For now, lets just say that smaller subs are better for ?tighter? bass.

The next spec is power handling. Again, you need to be sure that you are looking at the RMS or continuous power rating. However, please note, if you say to a person that knows anything about audio; ?my speakers make 500 watts? and you base this assertion on the wattage rating of the subs, they will look at you funny and laugh at you behind your back. Speakers do not make wattage. They consume wattage. They take this wattage and convert it to sonic energy through the energizing of a resistive coil which causes the piston (cone) to move up and down, being propelled and contracted by counteracting magnetic forces. The wattage rating is how much power your speakers can safely consume without releasing aforementioned ?magic smoke.?

The next spec, and the hardest to understand, is the resistance, or ?ohm? rating. The term ?ohm? is derived from ohm's law, which is a set of calculations used to measure the different facets of electricity. For instance, when we used the formula of V*A=W, this is an ohm's law equation. However, here the word ?ohm? refers to the speakers resistance. Most people do not realize this, but the + and ? connectors on a speaker are connected.  Between these connections is a tightly wound copper coil. Many people have seen a demonstration where a copper coil can be energized to create an electromagnet. This is what is happening inside your speakers. The more wire in the coil means the higher the resistance. However, the higher the number means the speaker will consume less power. 0 ohms is tantamount to a dead short. For instance, it you take your speaker wires and touch them together, this is a 0 ohm load?this will also make your amplifier very unhappy. Most subs are either 4 or 8 ohms. This must coincide with an amp's ohm load stability. If an amp is 4 ohm stable, then you can use it to run a single 4 ohm speaker. However, you can also run two 8 ohm speakers wired in parallel?parallel meaning the speakers are connected positive to positive and negative to negative. The other method of wiring is know as ?series? wiring. Here, when using two speakers, the ohm load is doubled. So, instead of 4 ohms, two 8 ohm speakers wired in series would yield a 16 ohm load. I won't get into this any further as this may again be a topic for another day. To figure your parallel ohm rating for more than two speakers, use this shorthand method. Lets say you have four 4 ohm speakers and you wire them in parallel. Take the ohm rating, 4, and divide it by the number of speakers, 4. 4/4=1. This would yield a 1 ohm load. This is the ohm rating for higher-end subwoofer amps. However, groupings of three speakers has become popular. For this, use the same equation. 4 ohms /3 speakers= 1.33 ohms. This trend is the reason why JL Audio began producing dual voice coil 6 ohm woofers years ago. If you wired one of the two voice coils from each speaker in parallel, you get 2 ohms. Then, you wire the other three voice coils in parallel. Finally, you wire these two ohm connections in series and you get a 4 ohm final load, making this a perfect fit for 4 ohm stable amps. For those who know about this, I know there is another way of wiring this configuration, but I am trying to keep it simple.

If you see that an amp's rated power is 500 watts at 4 ohms, this means that it will produce 250 watts at 8 ohms and about 1000 watts at 2 ohm if it is 2 ohm stable. I say ?about? because when you get closer to a dead short, the doubling factor is compromised a bit due to increased strain on the electrical components.

Now, I honestly just barely scratched the surface of what is out there on the topic of audio. This is why this is such a difficult subject to master. The good thing about of many of the more affordable products is that, seeing that the products are aimed at an audio novice, much of the guess work has been engineered out of the product. For instance, you can buy 4 6.5? coaxials capable of handling 100 Watts, and buy an amp capable of producing 100 wattsX4, hook it all up, set the gains and built-in crossovers, and then your rocking. Given it won't sound as good as an advanced setup, but you also don't need the equivalent of a PhD in electrical engineering to figure it out.

In closing, I would like to say this: If you find a really good installer that you can work with, count your blessings and treat him well. Being a really good installer is far more difficult than anyone can imagine. This requires that you be masterful in electrical knowledge, acoustic engineering, carpentry, upholstery, fabrication, fiberglass working, and many other fields that are recognized as professions in and of themselves. On top of all of this, that person must have a wondrous imagination and the ability to translate mental imaging into tangible, real-world manifestation. I labor for 12 years to become a good professional installer. I managed to secure installer and management positions in the top shops in the state, and even became MECP certified. Despite this, I never made more than 35K a year, and ended up with a quirky back from too much time laying upside down with my head buried under a dash.  I went back to school at 27, and right now I am working on realizing my second preference profession?being an attorney.
 
Dmack said:
I managed to secure installer and management positions in the top shops in the state, and even became MECP certified. Despite this, I never made more than 35K a year, and ended up with a quirky back from too much time laying upside down with my head buried under a dash.  I went back to school at 27, and right now I am working on realizing my second preference profession?being an attorney.

Maybe once you become an attorney you could help the poor souls that have had installs performed by Best Buy and Circuit City!!!  :laugh:  :kidding:

Great writeup by the way...wish I could find a decent installer around here.  (y)
 
TheBeast said:
Maybe once you become an attorney you could help the poor souls that have had installs performed by Best Buy and Circuit City!!!  :laugh:  :kidding:

Great writeup by the way...wish I could find a decent installer around here.  (y)

Yeah, you need to avoid the ?big box? stores at all costs. Your friendly moderator DS can share with you the procedural shortcomings of such establishments. Unfortunately, audible battery is not currently an actionable tort. If it was, it would be a very lucrative field of practice.
 
Now THAT was informative. Thanks, DMack! (y)

That was articulate clarity defined. You will make an outstanding professional of law. Just out of curiosity, what's your poison gonna be? PA or DA?
 
I started typing a book and then saw that someone pretty much hit everything..  but here is a few points

There are alot of components(building blocks)  to car audio..  so Ill just list a few and what the funtions are..
1. Head Unit. The main component that supplies all the sound to the system
Unless you are going to compete in sound compitions, It doent have to be High end, Go for features and ease of use..  In high school i had a broken headunit and used a sony walkmen with a headphone to rca jacks plugged into my EQ and it sounded just as good..
2. EQ's (equalizer for short)  
 1st what do they do,  Think of it this way,  the bass, treble and mid adjustment on your radio is a form of EQ, It limits certain frequencies from getting to your speakers..  An EQ boosts or reduces certain frequencies.
Now these little guys come in two main forms.
a. passive eq's, - these are usually little boxes that come with component speakers. (made of coils and capacitors)
b. active EQ's - These are powered, (made of solid state components)
Passive's are installed after the amp and before the speakers.  They eat up some of your available power, consider this when picking your amp.
Active are installed between the headunit and the amp.  
EQ's essentially have cutoff frequencies.  For example your mid bass x-over will cutoff(not allow) frequencies above 200hz
Now there is a whole other side to EQ's.
Good article on sound stage http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/ISEO-rgbtcspd/learningcenter/car/speakers_imaging_soundstage.html
Ill add to this later..  need to get to work..
 
ramonday said:
Now THAT was informative. Thanks, DMack! (y)

That was articulate clarity defined. You will make an outstanding professional of law. Just out of curiosity, what's your poison gonna be? PA or DA?
I never really wanted a Prince Albert?too painful. However, I have been called a Dumb Ass on more than one occasion.

All joking aside, I am going into private practice, specializing in real estate transactions, estate planning (wills, trusts, etc.) and city planning, including smart-growth planning and comprehensive planning.
 
Dmack - what can I say
adore.gif
  THANK YOU!!

That is one of the best explanations I have seen.  After reading that I went and checked the boxes of the equipment my installer put in and it matches up with a lot of what you said.  He said "this is what you need for what you want" and I wrote a check.  That was all I could understand.  He had his own shop for years, until health issues forced him to close (MS).  Now he will only work on what he calls "worthy" vehicles in his garage.  Luckily, I'm one of them!!  I have a whole new appreciation for what he knows/does. 

Again - thank you for the stupendous write up-this newbie appreciates it  :wave:
 
:laugh:
Dmack said:
I never really wanted a Prince Albert?too painful. However, I have been called a Dumb Ass on more than one occasion.

All joking aside, I am going into private practice, specializing in real estate transactions, estate planning (wills, trusts, etc.) and city planning, including smart-growth planning and comprehensive planning.

By far the funniest thing I've read all day! Sounds like you actually plan on making money. Good luck and thanks again!
 
Nice Post Dmack.Very informative.I would like to add some info from my days of having a good system.

As far as subs go,it is best if you can get all of the specs that you can get on them.The 2 specs i looked for was the DB=1w/1m,and if i could find it,the efficiency ratio of the sub.The db at 1 watt at 1 meter is a pretty good indication on how good the speaker makes use of its wattage going into it.Tweeters are around 95-100db,mids are about 90-95db,and subs are around 80-95db,depending on the construction of it.But as with anything make,there are exceptions to this rule.

As with any speaker,reguardless of design,it takes a doubling of wattage to increase the db of the speaker by, i think, 1.5-2db.So,if you have the DB=1w@1m figure,you can do the math on roughly how much the DB speaker can produce at its maximum wattage.

But the hardest spec to find is the efficiency ratio of the voice coil.i would take a guess that a subwoofer voice coil is only 75-85% efficient.If say you have a 1000 watt SVC woofer,multiply its wattage by 75%,to give you a safe wattage to work with.That would be around 750 watts to put on the woofer.This would give you a margin of safety in the case of clipping of the amp pushing it.Also by putting about 75% of the speaker max,you can save the voice coils by not pushing them too hard.

My old system i had in a 77 Suburban was a wall of Lanzar PC15L svc 15" subs being driven by 1 Cadence Z7000 mono block amp.The subs DB=1w@1m ratio was 100DB=1w@1m !!! The amp was rated a 50watts RMS@4ohm, and was stable to 1500watts RMS@1ohm.

If you want more info on wiring and such, check out www.the12volt.com
 
My question is for a 2007 chevy avalanche under rear seats with two 8" subs sealed enclosure using a phinox gold 4300xs amp what is the best subs to use for sound quality also I want to feel the subs in the sense as if a 5 year old is kicking the back of my seat.
 
Sparkomatic, Pyramid and Jensen rule  :laugh:
 
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