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What is the best speaker/sub/amp?

DirtyDeeds said:
My question is for a 2007 chevy avalanche under rear seats with two 8" subs sealed enclosure using a phinox gold 4300xs amp what is the best subs to use for sound quality also I want to feel the subs in the sense as if a 5 year old is kicking the back of my seat.
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You may want to step up to 10's for that kind of sound.

Check into MTX, MA Audio, or Crunch
 
good post, my kicker amp came tested with max Watt power certificate! and yes it was less then specified but only by 5watts
Thanks for the post good info you have there.
 
Man . . . my tastes do change from era to era. I mean I have been buying and installing (of having installed) stereo stuff in my cars since the early 80's. I really wasn't into quality in the early days . . . I just wanted loud and little distortion; pretty much rock music. In the 90's I dug Orion reproduction/amplification and Eclipse sound processing. I have lent myself a little latitude lately and am digging Diamond Audio 6.5's in all 4 doors (coaxels in the back, components in the front); talk about clean. Eclipse SW 6010 will fill my 10" sub needs and I have a pair of Alpine PDX's to amplify the cones. I have the 150.4 for the mids/highs, and a 1000.1 mono block for the subs. In the dash I have the Alpine IVA W505 using the blackbird II navigtation docked in it.

Not the best . . . not the worst. I can say this --> It is similar to what I had in my 2005 Avalanche that I removed and it was KLEAN!!!! That is all I ask from my system is to hear every note, every sound, every voice.

g
 
MoAv said:
I have to say this has been very interesting reading - and it really brought home to me how a person uneducated in audio equipment can really be taken in.  When I have gone to stereo shops, the salesman quickly realizes I don't know squat about audio, the whole tone of the conversation changes.  It's kind of like "here, just put this stuff in to the tune of 2500 bucks, and you'll be fine."...sort of the pat on the head type thing.  Know what I mean? 

You all seem to be very knowledgeable on this subject.  Could I challenge you to take this a step further for us audio idiots?  Maybe explain watts/amps and what they mean to each other?  What's a crossover?  You know, just basic info.  Why do I need a certain size amp?  Tune a sub?  What does "push" mean?  "In" phase "out of" phase?????  Have absolutely no clue on that parametric EQ thing...

I've researched on the web for info, but each store has their own info geared toward their own equipment.  Is there a way to cut through all the crap and maybe start a thread with audio 101 for idjits?  Or is there site somewhere that I haven't found that will explain all this simply?   :help:

I hope this makes sense.. :p
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Looks like you open a can of worms again Mo.  :laugh:


That was a nice write up in response.


PM me if any of that doesn't make sense.
 
as far as subs go i prefer ORION HCCA series subwoofers.  to make it short here is the link to why. read the page and watch the videos  http://www.orioncaraudio.com/Promos/HCCA_Challenge_Results.aspx
 
Waz said:
Has anyone seen this? The Most Powerful Subwoofer in the World!

It's very pricey (nearly $13,000) but, if that's what you want.
(I don't have the funds to mess with audio upgrades at all. I just wanted to share.)



"... different versions are rumored: a car version and a smaller one for use in traditional subwoofer enclosures."

"The big fan--er, sub--with a blade diameter I'd estimate at 17-inches was operational, and clearly produced audible, high level output to at least 17Hz. Below that its action was more obvious in the way it shook everything in the rooms and, below 10Hz, caused the rooms' walls to literally flutter back and forth like a sheet in the wind. Scary, but impressive."

_graphics_RWimage1.jpg
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well they deff. covered the human hearing range
 
after all the changes Ive done with subs and amps i found a really good setup and it sounds amazing and has huge bass i have two 12" alpine type R subs and an alpine 1000 watt mono amp the only problem I'm having is where to put it because the folding back door takes a lot of the sound away i really don't wanna have to take out the back door again but i may have too so if you guys have any ideas that would be great
 
I just recently purchased a 2010 Chevy Avalanche and was seeing what sub and amp best suit the 7 speaker bose system that came with the truck. Also, I am looking to install the subs myself under the back seat and was seeing if anyone knew of a place where I can purchase a box to put my subs. Any idea if the subs will sound better face down or up?

Thanks,
-B
 
brupert said:
I just recently purchased a 2010 Chevy Avalanche and was seeing what sub and amp best suit the 7 speaker bose system that came with the truck. Also, I am looking to install the subs myself under the back seat and was seeing if anyone knew of a place where I can purchase a box to put my subs. Any idea if the subs will sound better face down or up?

Thanks,
-B
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I have mine face up firing into the bottom of the seat recently when to a drive in theater and saw the expendables lets just say I now understand why Harleys are so popular I have 2x 8'  cvt's kickers the bass sound awsome would like to feel them more 10's  would be better for that but I've all ready spent the money and time I will stick with the 8's
 
HIM8NINS,

Did you install a custom box under the seat or did you purchase one and if so from where?

Thanks,
-B
 
made them myself out of 1/2 mdf cost me about $20.00 in material to make made them strong enough to hold an elephant. I used the 3d design sketch that Jeff D provided I was surprised how easy it was to make. hardest thing was taking the back seat up / out to put the subs in I recommend using some one to help lift it out save your back I'm young but felt old after struggling with the seat for a bit.
 
HIM8NINS said:
made them myself out of 1/2 mdf cost me about $20.00 in material to make made them strong enough to hold an elephant. I used the 3d design sketch that Jeff D provided I was surprised how easy it was to make. hardest thing was taking the back seat up / out to put the subs in I recommend using some one to help lift it out save your back I'm young but felt old after struggling with the seat for a bit.
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Yes it is very easy for someone who knows what they're doing or only doing a sealed box. But for more efficient boxes (ported or 4th/6th order Bandpass) mistakes are very easy to make, but the performance is far beyond a sealed box.

Futhermore, under the seats are not the greatest place for them unless you are absolutely intent on keeping your midgate function since that is the best sounding location.

surreaL
innovationS
 
I have been out of the competition stuff for a long time now and I am looking to but some speakers but I don't know who has a good name anymore in speakers or amps. I am looking to go SQ not SPL, I'm a little old and have enough hearing problems from working on augmented jet engines for the past 9 years. Does anyone have any suggestions for me. It doesn't matter the size, I am going to custom out the door panel anyway but looking for full range speakers
 
luv2xlr8 said:
Man . . . my tastes do change from era to era. I mean I have been buying and installing (of having installed) stereo stuff in my cars since the early 80's. I really wasn't into quality in the early days . . . I just wanted loud and little distortion; pretty much rock music. In the 90's I dug Orion reproduction/amplification and Eclipse sound processing. I have lent myself a little latitude lately and am digging Diamond Audio 6.5's in all 4 doors (coaxels in the back, components in the front); talk about clean. Eclipse SW 6010 will fill my 10" sub needs and I have a pair of Alpine PDX's to amplify the cones. I have the 150.4 for the mids/highs, and a 1000.1 mono block for the subs. In the dash I have the Alpine IVA W505 using the blackbird II navigtation docked in it.

Not the best . . . not the worst. I can say this --> It is similar to what I had in my 2005 Avalanche that I removed and it was KLEAN!!!! That is all I ask from my system is to hear every note, every sound, every voice.


You should be able to hear every note regardless. The important part is balance and phase correct. The one thing that's inherent in any system is positioning. You either balance it for a sitting position or an all around, everyone approach. The Bose in my a AV is lousy. No stage, no real low bass, and highs lousy. In my last truck 93 Dakota, I spent 40 hours installing and modifying crossovers, and I typically try tp treat oem speakers to get them to perform as needed, or use another brand. Used Madisound woofers, and other tweeters. It's not so necessary to just buy pricey drivers, but to be able to get what you want with what ever you need. The average person might know 10% what I know about speaker building. If you install and say it's good, it's probably not!!

Greg
g
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Is this an insult or advice? If it is advice like I would think, than are you trying tho say go by the spec's and I'll find the right speakers? I have a great knowledge of speaker systems and built them for many years but I was also plugged into that world at the time. I even hit 156db in a soft top 93 tracker with only 2 12's. This is not what I want though. My hearing is bad enough from my past career in the military. I was just wondering if there was any brand names that have proven to be good now. I know that most audio companies come out strong and then use their name to ride on and put out crap. I just saw a version of my amp while talking to a alarm installer. It was terrible, light, small fuses, no controls for frequency, and generally poorly made with high wattage claims. This is what I was talking about and asking if there were any known makers of good components and quality made speakers. I am looking for sound quality not just SPL.
 
H.O. Heartbeat said:
Is this an insult or advice? If it is advice like I would think, than are you trying tho say go by the spec's and I'll find the right speakers? I have a great knowledge of speaker systems and built them for many years but I was also plugged into that world at the time. I even hit 156db in a soft top 93 tracker with only 2 12's. This is not what I want though. My hearing is bad enough from my past career in the military. I was just wondering if there was any brand names that have proven to be good now. I know that most audio companies come out strong and then use their name to ride on and put out crap. I just saw a version of my amp while talking to a alarm installer. It was terrible, light, small fuses, no controls for frequency, and generally poorly made with high wattage claims. This is what I was talking about and asking if there were any known makers of good components and quality made speakers. I am looking for sound quality not just SPL.
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I've had good luck with Boston Acoustics, MB Quart, JL Audio, Kenwood, and Rockford Fosgate, as far as the mainstream audio equipment for sound and quality. But I'm in that 90% of people that don't care about speaker building. I like it to sound good, and last. Just my opinion. Good luck with your choices!
 
H.O. Heartbeat said:
Is this an insult or advice? If it is advice like I would think, than are you trying tho say go by the spec's and I'll find the right speakers? I have a great knowledge of speaker systems and built them for many years but I was also plugged into that world at the time. I even hit 156db in a soft top 93 tracker with only 2 12's. This is not what I want though. My hearing is bad enough from my past career in the military. I was just wondering if there was any brand names that have proven to be good now. I know that most audio companies come out strong and then use their name to ride on and put out crap. I just saw a version of my amp while talking to a alarm installer. It was terrible, light, small fuses, no controls for frequency, and generally poorly made with high wattage claims. This is what I was talking about and asking if there were any known makers of good components and quality made speakers. I am looking for sound quality not just SPL.
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There are a lot of good brands. It NOT driver, it how you use them. Buying expensive components gets you nothing. You have to read the spec sheets or measure them yourself in order to use them. Getting 156 dB of bass tells me the highs cannot compete. 120 dB in my basement is too loud to listen to. I use brands like Madisound, and Madisound sell many good brands. I use Peerless tweeters. midranges are all about peaks and roll offs. A peak is undesirable, but some peaks are off axis. Just an example, a driver might roll off at 6 kHz. It often also has a peak in this region. the phase shift is also present, as well as the impedance increasing. You can cross over on this unless you make compensation. so it's better to roll off, say 4 kHz below the danger. If you don't understand this, don't try to put a system together. 

Greg
 
I always consider using two cheap woofers rather than one expensive one. Sometimes in an isobaric design, or two drivers. consider two drivers fed the same power will produce a louder sound by 3 dB. Consider four woofers fed the same power will produce a 6 dB louder sound over one, and only have to move 1/4 the distance with lower distortion.. Just speaker basics.

Greg
 
Thanks but I am going to build my own system. I'm going to build a kappa system. Not too much bass though, My ears can't take it.
 
Pyramid watts !!!!

There are too many topics to comment on.

A couple thing. Before an installation one has to decide on low frequencies, either natural or overblown. Most go for way overblown. With the natural amplification of bass in the vehicle, one would normally go with a high cutoff closed box system at around 60 Hz which then gives you good bass to 30 Hz. Having the woofer go to 30 Hz gives you overblown bass, not flat.

When usin a driver a complete set of specs makes it a lot easier if not mandatory unless you got a lot of time on your hands.

About tweeter phase. Every system will be different. Reversing phase is either going to give you a peak, sickout, or be correct. The position of the drivers, crossover frequency, and sitting position is going to determine this as well as crossover order.

Last truck used pillar tweeters pointed at opposite seat. I also like to use a center tweeter to compensate for sitting positions. It gets the LR sum.

The position of the woofer,s will get varying amounts of performance in that in certain positions bass could be weak.

Each woofer is either designed for a closed box or ported. Some go either way. Ported woofers have higher efficiency but require slightly bigger box. And there are at lest 6 different alignments for ported boxes. Ever hear of the boom box. Why is a ported designed woofer more efficient? The qes is dominant getting more control of the driver also lowering qts giving a higher cutoff bass point, and you then need the port to stretch the bass response downward.

Greg
 
Thank you to the people with actual suggestions. If I do decide to go with woofer(s), I will use a sealed box because when built properly, they offer a cleaner sound. Greg I understand everything you are saying and I don't know if you are trying to insult peoples intelligence, offer advice, or just make it sound like you know all. I am not your average builder either. When I hit 156db, that was a set up for SPL only. In SPL competitions mids and highs do not matter. It is how loud can you get. This is why I used ported boxes also because it does not matter about distortion. Ported boxes if not built correctly, offer a great deal of distortion through the vented air waves that are sound. You cannot just through any sub in any ported enclosure either. The box has to be built to specs. The ports have to be x long, x wide, and x distance from the woofer internally.  I realize That I will need a crossover in this process also so I can tune it to the range of the speaker so the speakers do not hyper-extend trying to hit frequencies that they were not designed for. Sorry if I have mistaken your advice, but I do know a thing or two also.

 
To  H.O.
Most of the stuff I said was just info trying to explain stuff for those who do not understand.I.certainly would look elsewhere for mor audio info.
I find it hard to distinguish quality woofers, except stay within power and excursion boundaries, and don't buy woofers with foam surrounds. If I could name one brand it would be JL.

I do what I have to do in situations, like in my old 280Z, I installed a stealt system using 4-6 1/2 inch drivers. Those were built in, with no external box, except for the door speakers.

Pics
http://zekfrivolous.com/280z/page_01.htm
 
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