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What SHOCK ABSORBERS for Air Ride system

Mooneyham

New Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2021
Messages
6
I have a 2011 Av LTZ. New air pump. My rear shock bladders are leaking. I road drive. Don't tow...don't haul anything.
 
Sorry....could you recommend some shocks.. I probably have to change the front as well.
 
Sorry....could you recommend some shocks.. I probably have to change the front as well.
Well do you want to keep the air ride or remove?

Need to decide that first as keeping air ride limits you OEM or OEM replacement (not many out there)

If you remove well do all that first as it is not just replacing shocks you have to put in little doohickeys that fake computer out about ride height.
 
There are a large amount of older threads discussing the pros and cons of the LTZ suspension and picking a replacement.
Pros are it gives a very smooth Cadillac type ride and adjust for various loads in cab or bed as well as towing. Con is it's expensive to replace since it's so sophisticated. Most owners just bite the bullet and buy OEM replacement or ones from an aftermarket company called Arnott (I believe).
As mentioned above if you try non LTZ shocks you may get error messages on your dash since not having the right shocks can set off warnings.
You could also have to change springs since many times shocks and springs are a matched pair and just changing shocks may not work well with the LTZ springs.
Changing to non LTZ shocks means you just wasted money on a new pump, also you may want to replace your shocks asap since having leaking shocks is probably what killed your first pump by overworking it....
 
I agree. I have a 2012 LTZ and I replaced the air shocks(they were bad) and pump and still the air pump would fail to power on when turn the key. I even hot wired the pump from the relay and it would come on but not when you turn the key. I added a separate air line to the shocks and that helped but I hated having to get some air to pump them up, sure I could have rigged up something but After doing some research I went with the Bilsteins 5100's adjustable shocks on all 4 corners(left at stock height) and added the resisters to fool the computer. Pros: Handles much better. Less expensive Cons: It rides like a truck(not as smooth as the air ride). I don't tow so I didn't change the springs in the rear.
 
Hey guys, I saw one of my compressor lines was cut, would this be a good replacement kit?
Dorman 949-006

I bought this exact Dorman air line kit to replace the air lines on my 2004 EXT.

Even with my EXT being primarily an on road vehicle, this is one really dirty job.

The air lines are wrapped up with old black tape from the factory in a bundle with the rear wiring harness.

It took the better part of the day unwrapping, replacing and rewrapping everything.

Only then did I discover the actual problem was the air compressor itself.

While still pumping up the air shocks, the pump itself was allowing the air to bleed off overnight.

I had already replaced my old air shocks due to confirmed bladder leaks, so I felt the old air lines must have been the problem.

Nope.

Well, at least I now have new air shocks, new air lines and a new air compressor.

My previous Arnott air shocks and air compressor had lasted more than 9 years and over 125K miles, which was longer than the original OEM gear.

I went back with Arnott.
 
I bought this exact Dorman air line kit to replace the air lines on my 2004 EXT.

Even with my EXT being primarily an on road vehicle, this is one really dirty job.

The air lines are wrapped up with old black tape from the factory in a bundle with the rear wiring harness.

It took the better part of the day unwrapping, replacing and rewrapping everything.

Only then did I discover the actual problem was the air compressor itself.

While still pumping up the air shocks, the pump itself was allowing the air to bleed off overnight.

I had already replaced my old air shocks due to confirmed bladder leaks, so I felt the old air lines must have been the problem.

Nope.

Well, at least I now have new air shocks, new air lines and a new air compressor.

My previous Arnott air shocks and air compressor had lasted more than 9 years and over 125K miles, which was longer than the original OEM gear.

I went back with Arnott.
Thanks, I was thinking I would do the compressor too, since I don't hear it coming on. The service records show that the shocks were replaced 60k miles ago, so hopefully they won't be leaking.
 
Your air shocks should remain inflated long after the truck is shut down.

The air shocks I recently replaced would bleed down over night, but my new ones haven't bled down at all and the truck sits in the garage for weeks on end without being started.

If all is well, you should be able to feel the air bladders and they should be rock hard at all times.

More air is added if the rear level needs adjustment.

If your air bladders are inflated, use a spray bottle of a dish soap and water mixture to spray down the bladders and air line fittings to look for any leaks.

Here is a picture of one of my leaking air shock bladders.

Both shock bladders were the same.

The air bladder leak was extremely slow.

IMG_4356.JPG

I did not realize I had a leak down issue until I took my EXT out of service due to an engine problem.

After parking the truck, I noticed that the normal self test start up of the air pump at engine start was running a bit longer than I remembered from back when I drove the truck regularly.

As the truck sat for a few days, the air bladders totally bled down and had to be refilled from flat.

My soapy water test showed the leaking bladders, so I ordered new Arnott air shocks and replaced them.

After replacing the shocks and confirming they did not leak, I was still presented with flat bladders after sitting overnight.

Given that the air pump ran normally to pump up the air shocks and the air lines were OEM original, I opted to install the new air line kit to no avail.

Now, also given that the air pump and previous air shocks were installed at the same time many years ago, I opted to install a new Arnott air pump.

Problem solved and now the air bladders stay pumped up for months on end.

They have never leaked down since I finished this repair and the air pump performs it's self test whenever the truck is started up.
 
It may also be important to note that the air compressor is designed only for short burst operation.

In the event of blown out air shocks or, as in your case, a cut air line, if the air pump is tasked with running for an extended period of time, it is more than likely going to burn up.

I believe that to be the case with my OEM air pump since the OEM air shocks on my EXT when I first bought it used were completely blown out and shot.

I am sure the previous owner could not be bothered with expensive repairs and just let everything go.

Here are my OEM air shocks.

I doubt they could hold anything but bad memories.

IMG_0409.JPG
 
It may also be important to note that the air compressor is designed only for short burst operation.

In the event of blown out air shocks or, as in your case, a cut air line, if the air pump is tasked with running for an extended period of time, it is more than likely going to burn up.

I believe that to be the case with my OEM air pump since the OEM air shocks on my EXT when I first bought it used were completely blown out and shot.

I am sure the previous owner could not be bothered with expensive repairs and just let everything go.

Here are my OEM air shocks.

I doubt they could hold anything but bad memories.

View attachment 233554
Did you go with the new Arnotts or the Remans? Trying to figure out if I should go with the ACDelco since they are only $10 more than the Remans on Amazon..

I am also throwing a chassis code c0590-02 (Definition:Right Rear Actuator Circuit - Short To Ground)
 
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Did you go with the new Arnotts or the Remans? Trying to figure out if I should go with the ACDelco since they are only $10 more than the Remans on Amazon..

I am also throwing a chassis code c0590-02 (Definition:Right Rear Actuator Circuit - Short To Ground)

I bought new.

First go around, I bought all of my Arnott gear at Advance Auto since I had a 20% off reward if I bought online.

So, I placed my order and applied my reward.

I jumped in the truck and drove a couple of miles over to my local store and picked them up.

The couple of hundred bucks I saved went to pay my mechanic to install everything.

Years later, when I replaced the air shocks and compressor again, I went to the Arnott web site and found the part numbers I needed then I searched online for the best price for those parts.

I found the best price at Rock Auto for the parts I needed.

I bought the parts and installed them myself.
 
I bought new.

First go around, I bought all of my Arnott gear at Advance Auto since I had a 20% off reward if I bought online.

So, I placed my order and applied my reward.

I jumped in the truck and drove a couple of miles over to my local store and picked them up.

The couple of hundred bucks I saved went to pay my mechanic to install everything.

Years later, when I replaced the air shocks and compressor again, I went to the Arnott web site and found the part numbers I needed then I searched online for the best price for those parts.

I found the best price at Rock Auto for the parts I needed.

I bought the parts and installed them myself.
How do the new passive air shocks signal the system to level the rear?
 
How do the new passive air shocks signal the system to level the rear?

I wouldn't know anything about any "passive" air shocks.

The Arnott air shocks and air compressor plug into the factory wiring connectors and air lines.

Plug and play.

When the factory ride height sensors tell the truck's computer that the rear end is lower than desired, the computer turns on the air compressor and air is added to the air shocks until the ride height sensors indicate the correct ride height has been reached.

When the load is removed and the ride height rises, the ride height sensors tell the computer and the computer commands the air compressor to release air from the air shocks until the desired ride height is again reached.

The whole process is automatic.

The only thing the Arnott shocks I bought do not include is any kind of electronic ride firmness adjustment, or Mag-Ride feature, of the actual shock absorbing portion of all four shocks.

Not all of these trucks have that feature anyway and I have not even noticed that feature as being missing on my EXT.

But, that feature has nothing to do with the ride height leveling function.

Arnott may have shocks that have added that feature now, but I have not looked at their current offerings.

Their shocks do take into account the fact that the computer will throw an error on the cluster if the computer does not see what it expects to see.

That's why you either had a special resistor installed or like their newer shocks, the factory wiring connector simply plugs into the shocks just like the OEM units did.

No error messages in the cluster.
 
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I recently purchased this 2011 LTZ. The seller, a small lot company, fixed many items including the non OEM shocks by replacing them with OEM, as that is what I wanted. After taking delivery I found the ride was fine on the road, but going over speed bumps it was jarring. My local Chevy dealer determined that spacers had been added to the fronts. I don't know why the seller did this other than to make the vehicle look level in parked mode.

Would these spacers be what is causing the hard response over speed bumps and textured paving (stamped concrete)?
 
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maybe maybe not... could be tires too or 2 or more things together.
 
I recently purchased this 2011 LTZ. The seller, a small lot company, fixed many items including the non OEM shocks by replacing them with OEM, as that is what I wanted. After taking delivery I found the ride was fine on the road, but going over speed bumps it was jarring. My local Chevy dealer determined that spacers had been added to the fronts. I don't know why the seller did this other than to make the vehicle look level in parked mode.

Would these spacers be what is causing the hard response over speed bumps and textured paving (stamped concrete)?
Look into your cab mounts....might be similar issue. they released a bulletin "frame beaming" is the term, apparently.
 
Hey guys, as it turns out I already have Arnott Remans in the rear. One inflates and the other won't and you can just hear the air leaking out. I am thinking of replacing my rears with the Arnott AS-2715's. Does anyone have any opinions on them? They seem to be the replacement model for the AS-2700 that is no longer available. I haven't been able to any information on what shock they are using for it, i.e., the 2700s were Bilsteins. Any insight or reviews would be greatly appreciated.
 
Look into your cab mounts....might be similar issue. they released a bulletin "frame beaming" is the term, apparently.
What I read about it is that frame beaming is a condition most noticeable at 40-60mph and involves a suspension vibration. My condition is at low speed over speed bumps. If I crawl over them no problem. If I hit them at 15mph, the compression is fine at the bump start, but when the wheels crest over the top of the bump, the chassis comes down hard with somewhat of a thudding sound.
 
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