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When To Do The First Oil Change

M

MainManPaul

Full Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2002
Messages
10
Location
Orange, California
A few years back I had to drop a new engine into my F**d. The mechanic required that I come back at 1000 miles for an oil/filter change to purge out any metal particles that may be present from the break in period. I know the Av manual describes the break in procedure but there is no mention of doing an early oil chance. I was just wondering if anybody had any thoughts on this
 
Opinions vary on both of these topics - first oil change and when to switch to synthetics . . . and . . .

Both topics been beat to death on this board . . . so . . .

Try the SEARCH function!

Just be sure to set the search window to more than the default 7 days.

You'll fine lots of oil change info, ?synthetic vs. dino oil thinking, etc.

(or just page through the 'care and maintenance' section - these topics stick out pretty well!)
 
wrchism said:
...

Both topics been beat to death on this board . . . so . . .

Try the SEARCH function!

Just be sure to set the search window to more than the default 7 days ...
Click to expand...
You are starting to sound like that goo929 character over in the Accessories Forum? :rolleyes:

Before you know it, you are going to resort to creating one of those "sticky" POSTS in your Forum like he has over there ...

READ THIS BEFORE YOU POST HERE! ;D
 
MainManPaul said:
A few years back I had to drop a new engine into my F**d. The mechanic required that I come back at 1000 miles for an oil/filter change to purge out any metal particles that may be present from the break in period. I know the Av manual describes the break in procedure but there is no mention of doing an early oil chance. I was just wondering if anybody had any thoughts on this
Click to expand...
I have a good friend that always changes his own oil at 500 miles, right after breakin, filters it thruough cheesecloth or an old pair of his wifes pantyhose, and checks for metal - he is a very smart friend, and I took his advice. ;D

I also went Mobil1 at 1500 and never looked back ;D
 
gandolphxx,
Thanks for your reply without all of the cheese. I really do appreciate it.
If I had a few hours to kill filtering through a shearch on "Oil" and "Change" I would have given it a try but I was hoping someone like you could just give me a quick repsponce.
Again Thanks!!!
 
I changed the oil at 900-950 and went with Valvoline Synthetic. I then changed again at 3000 miles and will continue to do oil changes at 3000 mile intervals. I think synthetic is the way to go.
 
This topic has been "beat to death", but a couple of quick notes:
1. Your Avalanche does not come with "break-in" oil. It is filled with a standard 5W-30 oil (non-synthetic)
2. Your engine is not filled with metal shavings. Modern engine building and the tolerances on today's engines would not tolerate such a thing. Using this type of logic would dictate that your transmission should be flushed, cooling system flushed, power steering flushed, and brake system flushed immediately upon taking delivery of your new vehicle to get rid of these "shavings". This just is not the case.
3. Determine what your oil change pattern will be and follow it from the beginning. Personally I went 3K, and then switched over to synthetic.

There are as many opinions as to what the oil change interval should be as there are members on this board so I will not re-open that can of worms, however there is no such thing as changing the oil "too often" and oil is still pretty cheap protection.

Enjoy the new truck,
 
Big_Don said:
This topic has been "beat to death", but a couple of quick notes:
1. ?Your Avalanche does not come with "break-in" oil. ?It is filled with a standard 5W-30 oil (non-synthetic)
2. ?Your engine is not filled with metal shavings. ?Modern engine building and the tolerances on today's engines would not tolerate such a thing. ?Using this type of logic would dictate that your transmission should be flushed, cooling system flushed, power steering flushed, and brake system flushed immediately upon taking delivery of your new vehicle to get rid of these "shavings". ?This just is not the case.
3. ?Determine what your oil change pattern will be and follow it from the beginning. ?Personally I went 3K, ?and then switched over to synthetic.

There are as many ?opinions as to what the oil change interval should be as there are members on this board so I will not re-open that can of worms, however there is no such thing as changing the oil "too often" and oil is still pretty cheap protection.

Enjoy the new truck,
Click to expand...
Just to clarify, I didn't say or suggest that the engine was filled with metal shavings, that would be pretty unusual, I just passed on some wisdom that has served me well - however if you do find something, be concerned.

It is best to have the wife or gf remove the pantyhose before attempting the oil change.

And, yes, I do change the differentials early given the way I drive and certainly would if I towed on a regular basis. ;D
 
Hey all - follow up question on the same topic as I am going to do the first oil change/chassis lube today.

Can you do the oil change/chassis lube WITHOUT jacking up the front end? Meaning, is there enough clearance to crawl under there and do the work?

The reason I ask is cause my (rented) driveway is sloped steeply and thus if I have to jack this beast, I will want to find a flat parking lot. If I can just crawl underneath it I can do it in my driveway.

Thanks.
Nate
 
Your Av sits high enough to do an oil change without jacking it up. Look through the maintenance forum for oil / filter change techniques - ex: some aluminum foil can help to keep oil off of the skid plate on the Z71.

Same for chassis lube - no jacking necessary though removing wheels makes access easier - not required but easier.

And a comment on metal in the engine - shavings no, but I was surprised at the amount of metal dust that had accumulated on the magnetic drain plug at my first oil change at about 2500 miles.
 
Yeah,there's enough clearance to change the oil/filter yourself wihtout jacking it up. Try to have your Av on a slight decline though. It will keep the oil from draining straight down onto your skid plate and then running out through all the openings.
 
Thanks for the info guys.

zimmsAV - Just making sure... do you mean decline as in nose pointed down, or incline with the nose pointed up?

Also, can't I just remove the skid plate with a couple bolts? (haven't looked yet)

Nate
 
You can emove the skidplate, but it is not necessary. The drain for the oil is in the back of the oil pan, so if your vehicle is a little higher in the front, such as on an inclined driveway, or by driving it up on some ramps, little or no oil should get on the skidplate.
 
My 2 cents on the metal in the oil...

Today at 17,500 miles I had my Mobile 1 changed out after 5000k miles and there was a litle metal on the drain plug magnet... I doubt I will go that long again before I change it...
 
I changed my oil for the first time last night, at 670 miles...

Still running dino... Looking into Amsoil...

Also found a bit of metal shavings on the drain plug. From my experience with my last truck, it's pretty normal.
 
???The accepted practise is to seat the rings using the regular oil---4000 to 6000 miles with todays hard rings.Two oil changes with regular oil---then make the move to a synthetic.There is no doubt that synthetic is the long term answer.No need to change the oil thereafter but every 8000 to 10,000 miles.You are just throwing away good oil.Don't forget the air filter--more important when using the synthetic and long filter-oil change.If you choose to use regular oils all will be fine---but change every 3000 miles.With the close tollerences of todays engines,5w 30 is the wise choice as GM dictates!!
 
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