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Wyotonka build thread

He said this is everything included the battery is extra, that's fine with me though I'd rather have a side terminal.
 
I'm guessing you're already aware that you can get a second battery tray from GM to fit in the factory location in the right rear corner of the engine bay next to the A/C compressor. YOu would loose the frame bracket on that side though.
 
Dluvr22 said:
I'm guessing you're already aware that you can get a second battery tray from GM to fit in the factory location in the right rear corner of the engine bay next to the A/C compressor. YOu would loose the frame bracket on that side though.
Yea, that's going on the todo list, I have that and my rear 50" to order hopefully tonight. I am also going to look into what I need to do the Big 3. It may be a while before I'm able to work on it since I am also ordering a 22" light bar for the Kia and I need to find out what size I need for the other half's new 300.  >:D
 
With a dual alternator system think of it as the same as a dual battery system with an isolator that always keeps the batteries apart.

You need to figure out the wiring too.. You MAY need to split the output to the factory alternator to this one to make sure you don't use power when the truck is not running.

The MOST important thing to make sure of is that you make sure the ground is the same as your OEM battery... 

You CAN do the big three wire upgrades.. But make sure you do the same to the secondary battery. My secondary battery is grounded to the bracket bolts at the rear of the battery tray and to the engine block with 4 gauge wire. I will likely be upgrading mine to 0/1 or 0/2 wire to make sure I can output enough power to the system.

The block ground is most important for the secondary battery for charging purposes. The Body ground is most important to insure anything used in the truck is the same ground potential. If you are running to an audio system you will want to run cables directly to your system but make sure you still have grounds to both your block and body somewhere.

If you just keep the mindset that it is a secondary battery then you will be OK.
The alternator really is just charging your second battery and running the secondary system. Also make sure you always use a battery with it because it smooths out the output and can otherwise make the diodes blow in the alternator or cause bad spikes.

Rodney
 
Ideally I would like to have the 2 batteries switched so if the main one dies I can jump start it. I had thought of adding a second alternator before but never looked too much into it for cost reasons so I haven't done much research on it yet. If I keep the battery separate for only lighting/audio accessories would I just hook the secondary alt to the second battery and run it all off of that?
 
In a word Yes.

However if you do put the switch you are talking about in place you are likely going to want to disable the secondary alternator while the jumping is in place to prevent damage to it. I am not familiar with what might happen if you connect the two like that but it should be a simple task to shut down the second alternator. (One of the wires you have to feed to it turn the alternator on and off to prevent over charging as I understand it. Depends on the alternator. )

I might be wrong about the jumping but you might want to check with someone that puts together these systems and see what they suggest. You would hate to toast your second alternator because your trying to jump yourself...

 
redheadedrod said:
In a word Yes.

However if you do put the switch you are talking about in place you are likely going to want to disable the secondary alternator while the jumping is in place to prevent damage to it. I am not familiar with what might happen if you connect the two like that but it should be a simple task to shut down the second alternator. (One of the wires you have to feed to it turn the alternator on and off to prevent over charging as I understand it. Depends on the alternator. )

I might be wrong about the jumping but you might want to check with someone that puts together these systems and see what they suggest. You would hate to toast your second alternator because your trying to jump yourself...
I mostly wanted this because it has been draining while sitting... It has sat for 2-3 weeks now and fired right up. I think I'll keep it on a separate system.
 
wyotonka said:
I mostly wanted this because it has been draining while sitting... It has sat for 2-3 weeks now and fired right up. I think I'll keep it on a separate system.

I use an Optima deep cycle yellow top on my '04, I killed two stock batteries under warranty first. I live 5 miles from work and like to arrive early, listen to music then close the sunroof, windows,... a deep cycle might solve the problem with no extra alternator.

We used to build some trucks with dual alternator 24 volt systems for military applications, last time we did so was for Great Britain/Canadian operations that I can recall. All white trucks for the great white north, instant camouflage in the snow. The wiring harness was thicker than my arm, you need 12 volts here and 24 there. It can be done though.
 
I want one  :needhug:
tonka-toyota-4runner-front-three-quarters-03.jpg
 
wyotonka said:
I mostly wanted this because it has been draining while sitting... It has sat for 2-3 weeks now and fired right up. I think I'll keep it on a separate system.

Here's how I did mine,
http://chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php/topic,145377.0.html
let me know if you have any questions.  I had an issue with popping relays, but  have since figured it out
 
wyotonka can you provide the info on your wheels? looking for size and offset, as well as tire size and how well they fit i.e. any rubbing. 
 
reddeadg8 said:
wyotonka can you provide the info on your wheels? looking for size and offset, as well as tire size and how well they fit i.e. any rubbing. 
they're 20" kmc xd's I don't remember what the offset is but I do have a little rub it at full lock. The tires are 265 60 20's so they stand at 33" the truck just has a level on it
 
plan on doing dual batterys after xmas. It got put off since insurance was like so theres a policy change and going to cost $500. Have to call and chase that down. But do I have to run two alternators for two batterys or can I just get a 250A alternator?
 
Dakotawilk said:
plan on doing dual batterys after xmas. It got put off since insurance was like so theres a policy change and going to cost $500. Have to call and chase that down. But do I have to run two alternators for two batteries or can I just get a 250A alternator?
I was going to run my second battery completely separate that way. The guy that I was supposed to get the second alt from wanted me to meet him at his house out of town at like 10:30 and I was not about to do that. I'm not positive but I'm pretty sure you can just upgrade your alt which I think is the route I'm going to go, along with the big 3.
 
Dakotawilk said:
But do I have to run two alternators for two batterys or can I just get a 250A alternator?
You don't need two alternators but you do need an isolator circuit.
 
We have come to the conclusion that we need a snugtop, i have been watching CL for months and have seen one in MT for about 2k  :E: I have done a lot of reading and I think I could build one. I am basically wanting to build a flip pac. I have been trying to find a way to still have saddle bag access and have a couple ideas.
 
wyotonka said:
We have come to the conclusion that we need a snugtop, i have been watching CL for months and have seen one in MT for about 2k  :E: I have done a lot of reading and I think I could build one. I am basically wanting to build a flip pac. I have been trying to find a way to still have saddle bag access and have a couple ideas.
If u need something in Mt I'm driving down to CO in 2 weeks
 
Theres a Snugtop for sale in the Seattle area for $1000.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/avalanchestyle/permalink/923659624354482/

Good luck getting in & out of that tent after a few beers.    :E:
 
That's cool.  The design I have in my head removed the saddle bag lids and had covers incorporated into the SnugTop2.  That way it would come down along the outside of the sail panels like the current snugtop and give the "platform ledge" of the current snugtop, just a little higher up.  For a locking mechanism, I was thinking to use the same key as the back glass.  If I had an ounce of artistic ability I'd draw it out, but I don't.  I wish I could get what I see in my mind onto paper. :E: 
 
AirJunky said:
Theres a Snugtop for sale in the Seattle area for $1000.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/avalanchestyle/permalink/923659624354482/

Good luck getting in & out of that tent after a few beers.    :E:
i have my roof tent now and love it. The flip pics are open in the back
post-3254-1328582214843.jpg

Frito I get what you're saying, that was my thought too, in the triangular section over the saddle bags put boat hatches on the sides and take off the lids.
 
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