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XOD1911 Dash monitor


Charter Member
Full Member
Apr 15, 2002
Northern Virginia

So, not wanting to go through the complete modding process for 2DIN, I came across (at walmart of all places) this unit:


Not to mention it is only $200.  I found a seller on Ebay that was able to confirm it had video inputs/outputs (walmarts site is a little lacking, as is the product manufacturer).  Granted, it probably doesn't have the support that the big brands do, but my truck has 100k miles on it.

It doesn't say what the DIN height, but the picture I found of the rear, looks like this has a single DIN height unit, with a 2.8" panel in the front.  This panel is probably about the size of the cut-out in my '02.  So, I figured I'd give it a whirl.  It is returnable.

Next thing is to convert the wireless camera I have now, into a hard-wired license plate version.  This will require me to buy a new cam.  If anyone knows of a half-decent cheap source for a rear view cam let me know.  I'm sure if I search around I'll find some.

This is arriving at my house today.  I measured my cutout in the dash bezel to be ~3 inches.  This unit is claimed to be a single DIN back end, with a 1.5 DIN front.  I'm going to see if it can be mounted recessed enough to be flush with the bezel.

I'll pull out the directions and look at them.  I'm heading out of town for a few days so I won't get to this for a while.  Also, just picked up a bracketCAM off Ebay for $160 including shipping.  Seller had sold whatever GM he had and didn't get a chance to put it on. 

Here's the update.  I installed this along with a BracketCAM over the weekend.  All in all, I am very happy with it, especially for the price.  You can see what this looks like in my '02 1.5 DIN cutout.  It protrudes maybe about 3/4" from the dash.  The 2DIN mod is much cleaner and nicer, but I didn't want to drop $1500 with everything.  This version is going to run me about $500 ($150 for camera off ebay, $200 for XOVision, and probably about $150 for the flip down).

The image of the backup camera (bracketCAM) is very clear on the monitor (will try to get a picture with it on).  The head unit has an activiation wire and dedicated backup camera input that switch over in reverse.  I also plugged the backup camera into the GPS video in (made a y-cable), considering I'll probably never need it.  So I can look at what's behind me at any time.  The screen is large and high enough to be useful for backup purposes, as well as getting a DVD kicked off for my 4-year old, although I haven't played a DVD yet, nor tried to connect my iPOD to the little tiny USB connector.  Next step is to route a video cable and a beige power acoustik flip down monitor.

I'm going to get a A/V cable for my ipod that connects into the AUX input.  This will allow audio and video to be played.  Too bad it doesn't pipe the ipod display on the screen all the time.  That would be cool to help navigate.

To get really clean, it'd be nice if I could recess it back about 3/4", and then mold the mounting kit trim, but the Metra mounting kit does not make this easy.  One would have to do a fair amount of plastic modding, but conceivably this could be kept in the scope of the kit itself.

The only real gripes I have with the head unit are 1) there is no clock, so now I have to find a nice looking clock to mount somewhere (maybe in the on-star cavity since it is now inoperable), and 2) the associated text for the buttons is not lighted, so it takes some guesswork to determine which is which, although eventually I presume I'll memorize the locations.  I also suspect that the USB input for ipod (which will also play flash memory) is pretty lame, as it most likely navigates by files, not by some predetermined hierarchy, but I didn't plan on using it anyway.


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looks good...especially for the price.  What harness and nstall kit did you use?  (might help someone out down the line)
Standard Metra harness for the radio side.  I forget the P/N, but if you go to any circuit city, this is the kit you'd get at the install bay.  Also, the install kit takes the 1.5 DIN down to a 1 DIN and centers the opening in the existing slot.  It slides right into the guides just like the factory radio.

One exception:  I have On*, and although I am still subscribing, I decided not to pay the money for the OS1 interface, given I only have 2 months or so left.  So what does this mean?  Simple, if you want to still use the factory amp (I might bypass it later), you need to take the pink wire from the on* harness (the smaller harness in the radio).  Tie this into the blue amp turn on wire on most aftermarket harnesses (and this particular one as well).  The way I chose to do this was to physically extract the socket from the On* harness, and re-insert it into the vehicle radio connector in the empty cavity (I believe it was right next to the green wire).  This was a last minute pinch thing, because I had it all wired up, but probably the most effective way as well.  The good thing, is if you stick the factory radio back in, it should still work, except for the onstar.  I have extensive experience pinning out connectors, and the way I install things is to remove the pins and heatshrink a solder connection (only way to slip heat shrink over the connection).  All my connections are done this way, vice tape, or worse yet those stupid scotch-lok connectors.

I am going to take the faceplate of the ashtray off, and mount a clock I got at target for $3.  I had the VR3 screen mounted with binding posts there, and it fit perfectly.  Looks like the clock will as well.  Of course I just put the ashtray faceplate back...not that it is hard to remove or anything.

One last note:  When in reverse, the radio switches to backup mode and whatever is playing (FM, CD, etc.) switches out for the time being.  Not a big deal, but could annoy some.  There are alternate ways around this, like using the GPS mode which allows the screen to display the backup input, and overlays the audio info.  Haven't tried this + DVD mode yet.

Now, if only the stupid iPOD would pipe out the "now playing" screen through the video connection.  I know it doesn't, but it'd be nice.

All in all, this is a fairly easy install.  The hardest part was routing the stupid backup cam wiring.  Crawling under an AV with 100k+ miles on it has a lot of dirt underneath that will fall in your eyes.  I poked this up through the boot with the E-brake cable (didn't have to make a new hole, just went along side).  I didn't RTV it yet, but probably should.