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Great idea for cold air intake

Rob3044

Full Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2013
Messages
14
Location
Arizona
Okay, so what you do is cut a hole in your air box (everything starts with cutting holes). Then use some cheap flex tubing and cut another hole in your fire wall under the ac fan motor. Then route your flex tubing to the fire wall and seal it up nice and good see? Then turn on your ac on while your driving and you'll have nice chilled air going into your engine cause it will be nice and cold from the ac. (note: you may suck all the air out of the cabin area and die...but your engine will love you).

Just an idea
 
Three post about the same thing.  Guess you're a little excited about this idea of getting cold air into your intake>:D 

Sounds like a noble concept but I don't think you would get much improvement from this.  The air flow from the AC would not be strong enough IMO
 
Actually it was so he could get to the secret number to post pics.  >:D
 
MS03 2500 said:
Actually it was so he could get to the secret number to post pics.   >:D
Can you blame him?

Which reminds me............I have a great idea for Plasti Dip:  French Onion.
 
I guess newbies don't realize that if you post in the new member welcome area you hit it in no time.
 
I had a similar idea in the days before I traded in my Schwinn for a '53 Chevy 210, and I and others would have sworn under oath that the baseball cards attached to the front fork flapping against the spokes made my ride faster......now-a-days should one wish to install a system based upon the same scientific principle that more noise appears to make a ride go faster, and many will swear to it, we have CAI.

That idea would work on a 20th century Avalanche. Back in pre EPA days you could make a passive CAI that would really work....pop out the two inner high beams (two outers were dual filament anyway), run dryer ducts to the air snorkel, drill out the carb jets, goose the timing advance a few degrees, install a foam air filter element  .....and for under 20 bucks you had more noise and more usable horsepower and cars following behind basked in the aroma of unburned leaded gasoline.

Avalanches manufactured in the 21st Century have nasty things like MAF sensors and an ECM that will instantly thwart any efforts to screw with the mixture by introducing more oxygen molecules via colder, denser air..........the MAF really doesn't care if the temperature of air entering the induction system is zero of over 100 F..............it tells the ECM to lean out or enrich the mixture accordingly so the same number of air molecules balance the same number of gasoline molecules introduce via injector dwell time, valve timing and spark advance for complete combustion, and the up/downstream oxygen sensors monitor exhaust and provide a feedback loop to assure that you cannot screw with the system downstream of the MAF sensor. But there IS one way you can outsmart the system by using the cold air output of the air conditioning system to gain more useable hp from the mill.....simply turn the A/C off in really warm weather and you'll see an instant boost in engine performance.
 
Or you could just install one of these...  

My intake temps used to run 20 deg to sometimes 50 deg higher than the OA temps. After I added the cold air tube to my stock air box the intake temps pretty much mirror the OA temps. Some might worry about sucking water but that can't happen with the holes in the air box into the fender, the air will pull from there if you put the front end under water.. It picks up the air from around the tow hook opening. Lower intake temps means better performance especially on hot days.


http://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=Volant%2035060
 

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Randy said:
Or you could just install one of these...  



http://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=Volant%2035060

This device mirrors the original poster's concept of channeling cold air from the output of the A/C into the air box (minus the part about sucking all the air out of the cabin and dying) and likely works just as well.
 
Colder air is denser air, containing more oxygen molecules per a given volume.  MAF does account for this and even if it didn't the o2 sensors would drive the fuel trims to add the appropriate amount of gas for the added oxygen.  It is not just more noise.

70 degree air is about 4% more dense than 90 degree air.  You loose about 4% of potential power at 90 versus 70.

Now taking cold air from the AC is different as your engine is having to do work in order for the AC to function.  Randy's CAI setup is passive and pulls outside ambient air instead of hot underhood air.

At a 50 degree delta you are loosing about 10% of power - 30 hp in a 300 hp engine.
 
Custom tuning works to give better performance because it changes the way the ECM translates input from the sensors for peak performance, not emissions, just like the old Trans-go kits modified the tranny valve bodies for maximum shift performance not comfort or gas mileage. But adding crap to boost air or gasoline feed to get a greater explosion and increase horsepower without a change in tuning won't because the ECM will follow its native algorithms to compensate for and defeat the attempts.

Both intakes are before the restrictive air filter. The air box draws air from the fender well, not the warmer engine compartment and given that size opening compared with the much smaller opening on a ground suction CAI system coupled with resistance in the snorkel's convoluted duct produces little if any increase in airflow....any excess pressure from a ram effect will sooner blow out the much larger air box opening into the fender, just like the dreaded water entry, instead of through the restrictive air filter.

And there is another reason why you do not want incoming air too cold. Heated air intakes were not designed only to decrease emissions but to also combat icing in the induction system caused by a venturi effect at the throat of the carb or throttle body.....a forward facing air intake to force in moisture from rain or snow might not be a such great idea under those conditions.

The Avy isn't governed by concepts in theoretical physics, it's ECM brain is more concerned with strict adherence to EPA dictates than giving owners' peak performance, and it isn't easily tricked by gizmos trying to mess with its brain......aside from the MAF sensor assembly which also contains an integral temperature sensor to compensate for both air volume and temperature, other sensors constantly feed in to defeat any screwing around from what its factory algorithm considers an ideal mix......even if you could fool it and increase the density of the air mass in the combustion chamber that will increase the compression ratio and the knock sensors which set the spark advance to just the point to prevent preignition which is a function of the compression ratio, will detect a knock and it will tell the ECM to retard the spark or change the valve timing on VVT engines and down goes the effective hp boost.

At 320 hp with a 6 spd. and 3.42 rear which is equivalent to an effective 4:13 ratio in 1st on a 4 spd.. there is more than enough power to get off a start and move my ass from point A to B........If I want to feel more horsepower in my Avys from add on crap, short of a custom tune which would void the warranty, I'll mount baseball cards to flap against the wheel spokes which in my opinion is much cheaper, a lot less work and just as effective...if I want to race some A-hole in the street, I'll garage the Avys and Malibu and buy another Camaro or a Vette.
 
Thomcat.. Your comments are rude and out of line if you have an opinion on something then state it. Please do not talk crap about what people are doing or want to do their AV's, if you don't agree then don't do it.
 
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