LED Light Bar Opinions Needed

I couldn't figure out how to actually make a poll in a thread, so I'm asking this way.

This question has more to do with style then with manufacturer.  I am planning on placing a 40" or 50" bar on a roof rack.  

With that in mind, is there a preference among those of you reading this between a single row or double row of LEDs in your 50" or 40" LED light bar for the front of your truck?  I've seen some single row bars that have similar lumens as a double row.

So, why a double row over a single row?

Have any of you experienced decreased road noise (whistling) with a single row bar vs a double row bar?

For my side lights (again on a roof rack), what is your preference between, say, 3"x3" cubes over, say, a 4" or 6" bar?  

Do some of you find flood lights more effective while off-road over spot lights?  

I have a 50" dual row with 28800 lumens, I would say in all reality this is plenty bright. I do still plan on adding a 40" dual row to the front and the rear. I think it adds a bit of a rugged look with the dual row.
I have been looking into single row recently to add on to the koup since the off-road look isn't for Kia  I think the single row will be easier to conceal.

stevenboise said:

I couldn't figure out how to actually make a poll in a thread, so I'm asking this way.

This question has more to do with style then with manufacturer.  I am planning on placing a 40" or 50" bar on a roof rack.  

With that in mind, is there a preference among those of you reading this between a single row or double row of LEDs in your 50" or 40" LED light bar for the front of your truck?  I've seen some single row bars that have similar lumens as a double row.

So, why a double row over a single row?

Have any of you experienced decreased road noise (whistling) with a single row bar vs a double row bar?

For my side lights (again on a roof rack), what is your preference between, say, 3"x3" cubes over, say, a 4" or 6" bar?  

Do some of you find flood lights more effective while off-road over spot lights?  

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Well its all dependent on where you want to put it. If you're putting it on a roof rack or basket (not the factory one mind you as that is flimsy)  I'd go with 40" straight as 50' will protrude past the rack. Road noise will be less as far as size goes as double row has more frontal area than single row. Either way you will still hear it. As far as whistling goes, well that can be fixed. I fixed the whistling issue on my bar for less than $20. No more whistling regardless of how fast I am going. Another thing the further back you put the bar the less noise you will hear mostly because the bar is behind you at that point when you have it mounted on the rack

It's all down to personal preference really.
I didn'tt go the way of a roof basket or rack because I never use it.

Dluvr22 said:

I fixed the whistling issue on my bar for less than $20. No more whistling regardless of how fast I am going.

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Can you elaborate on your $20 fix? 

Do you have pictures of it?

It's simple really.
I put a GoPro on my roof to try to get to the bottom of the noise and found that the bottom 2 fins of the light bar were vibrating like a tuning fork at certain speeds. To fix this, I did some trial and error and found that if I use the door edge moulding they sell at the auto parts store and put it on the edge of the fins, they stop vibrating as the thin edge is now thicker.

You can test this theory easily by taping the fins together. Just run a few strips of tape at intervals along the bar from the bottom of the bar around the back and to the top to hold the fins together and go driving down the highway and the whistling will be gone.
I am still pissed at myself that it took me a year after ownership before I decided to address it and it was so cheap at that.

Here you go.
To be more accurate it was a $11.99 fix
I did the 3 bottom fins as I had extra left from the roll I bought and I figured it'll be extra insurance.



This is what I used. Get the U-shaped one as it'll go over the fins and stay in place. I did not try the adhesive one but I don't think it'll work. Best of all the fins are not cut in any way so they still serve their purpose for cooling.






http://www.autozone.com/decals-and-graphics/door-edge-molding/cowles-products-black-styleguard-edge-trim/177859_0_0/



Here it is installed and you can't tell that the moulding is there.

Dluvr22 said:

It's simple really.
I put a GoPro on my roof to try to get to the bottom of the noise and found that the bottom 2 fins of the light bar were vibrating like a tuning fork at certain speeds. To fix this, I did some trial and error and found that if I use the door edge moulding they sell at the auto parts store and put it on the edge of the fins, they stop vibrating as the thin edge is now thicker.

You can test this theory easily by taping the fins together. Just run a few strips of tape at intervals along the bar from the bottom of the bar around the back and to the top to hold the fins together and go driving down the highway and the whistling will be gone.
I am still pissed at myself that it took me a year after ownership before I decided to address it and it was so cheap at that.

Here you go.
To be more accurate it was a $11.99 fix
I did the 3 bottom fins as I had extra left from the roll I bought and I figured it'll be extra insurance.

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Using a GoPro was absolutely brilliant!  I will keep this in mind if/when this issue comes up for me. 

Thanks for sharing!

If you need to purchase light bars let me know, I sell them and would love to hook you up

09chevyavy said:

If you need to purchase light bars let me know, I sell them and would love to hook you up

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Do you have a price list you can email me?  My email address is in my profile.  I'd at least take a look to compare brands/prices.

Dluvr22 said:

Best of all the fins are not cut in any way so they still serve their purpose for cooling.

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I'd say putting the molding over the fins is affecting how well they keep the assembly cool.  It may be about the same as cutting them off.

Enough to be a problem?  I can't say.

I get your point Greg. The molding only covers the tips of the fin not the whole fin. Added to that there are only 3 of the 12 fins covered. I'm certain the remaining 9 can dissipate the extra heat. Besides that I've seldom had to run these lights continuously for over an hour at a time. The maximum I ever ran them was on an overnight trip to WI a few weekends ago on some back roads. The light bar was still cool to the touch at the end of the trip

If the heat becomes an issue, I'm certain covering sections of the bottom fins instead of the whole fin would suffice while still preventing the whistling noise.

Dluvr22 said:

I get your point Greg. The molding only covers the tips of the fin not the whole fin. Added to that there are only 3 of the 12 fins covered. I'm certain the remaining 9 can dissipate the extra heat. Besides that I've seldom had to run these lights continuously for over an hour at a time. The maximum I ever ran them was on an overnight trip to WI a few weekends ago on some back roads. The light bar was still cool to the touch at the end of the trip

If the heat becomes an issue, I'm certain covering sections of the bottom fins instead of the whole fin would suffice while still preventing the whistling noise.

Click to expand...

Sounds good!