• If you currently own, previously owned or want to own an Avalanche, we welcome you to become a member today. Membership is FREE, register now!

No Crank No Start

Larry H

New Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2020
Messages
7
Location
Tennessee
:help:
Alright lets see if I can describe this issue..I started up the 2008 Avalanche taking note that the battery seemed weak after not starting it for 2 weeks and proceeded to load the trash bags in the back and the dog in the back seat.
So i get in and check the voltage gauge "no reading" not only on this one but none of them Tach, Fuel, oil pressure... so I put it in drive and park it in front of the garage door and slightly rev the engine still no gauge movement...so I shut off the truck oop's I guess because now I have no power to the starter, the signal's the emergency flashers, the gauge's, the door lock's, the headlight's, the dome lights, ... however my radio and my fan motor, the low fuel light, power window's and the DIC is telling me about the Stabilitrac and other input's.
so I put my battery charger on and let it run it's course til the full indicator in on the charger, still the same at the control cockpit "nothing"
I've checked fuses including the 70 amp link and even done the jumper wire to engage the starter with no luck of it starting...it has no engine lock code illuminated except for when you first turn the key to the on position and then disappear's...
any suggestion into what direction i should go from here is appreciated.
Thank you in advance
 
Could be the BCM ( Body Control Module ). I had an issue with my 2007. It did not turn over, no display, connected jumper cables no difference . Had it towed to the dealer and the BCM was found to be bad. Was replaced under warranty

Link to topic with BCM functions

https://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php?topic=122274.0
 
Thank's the only fusable link I can find is the 70amp that is on the firewall and it tested good, I went ahead and replaced the crank/run and start relay's along with the ignition switch module and then today as I was diag's on it with the battery charger I got the dreaded F03 on the charger which is a shorted cell in the battery...so $150 battery AGM 730cca installed...still no change in the truck "No Crank/No Start" no courtesy lights, no daytime running, no power door locks, no theft lock, no gauges, no signals, no emergency flashers, but the blower motor works, the radio and power windows work, so yes I'm leaning towards the BCM but then have to get it "Flashed" with a tow bill$$$$
 
Larry,
Ah... I see that you said you had it parked for a couple of weeks - missed that the first time.
Enough time for a family of mice to move in and play with the wiring perhaps.
You might want to lift the underhood fuse box and see if the wiring underneath has been damaged.
I've heard about mouse damage being found there before. Never know!
Going back to the fusible link thing...
On my Avy, there is a wire that runs off the alternator, leading off to the red junction block which provides a convenient place to jump-start.
On that wire, there is a raised section with white lettering on it that says "Fusible Link" or some thing like that.
I noticed it the other day when I was doing a battery swap. Got 3 years out of a supposedly 'rebuilt' battery.
Anyway - good luck with your Avalanche!  :B:

CarMech1969
 
I'll take a closer look at that wire and let you know what I find, as far as the mice go I don't think that would be a problem for anyone in this neighborhood with 35 cats in a 200 ft radius, one has 4, one has 17, one has 3, on and on...yep I have old cat lady neighbors lol
 
Larry H said:
I'll take a closer look at that wire and let you know what I find, as far as the mice go I don't think that would be a problem for anyone in this neighborhood with 35 cats in a 200 ft radius, one has 4, one has 17, one has 3, on and on...yep I have old cat lady neighbors lol
Larry, you need a test light and/or a digital volt-ohm meter.  Otherwise you're just guessing.
 
If cats in neighborhood more reason to look for mice damage as they will hide underhood from cats.
 
2004Slickside said:
Larry, you need a test light and/or a digital volt-ohm meter.  Otherwise you're just guessing.
Yepper's I've a Meter and a pocket scan OBDII and have tested all fuses and relays and even the Alternator Hot and getting battery voltage on the correct areas and audible ohm test on all fuses.
Unfortunately I've contacted a chevrolet dealership and towing company...it'll be scanned and towed for $205.00 "ouch" but thats country livin'
GM engineers are amazing at what they do and know how to make residual's for dealerships LOL :laugh:
 
Hello Larry,
Just checking in . Was the dealership able to debug the problem for you and are you back up and running ?
 
I have a 2007 Chevy Avalanche LTZ 5.3l 4x4 with 128,000 miles which I purchased used about 8 years ago. Last winter I tried starting the truck after it had sat for some time and all it did was click at the starter. I estimated the aftermarket battery was about 4 years old. I purchased and installed a new battery and the truck started no problem. About a week later I went to start the truck and just got a click at the starter. I tried boosting the truck, but it wouldn't start. I presumed the battery was faulty and returned it to the Retailer who tested it and said it was fine although slightly discharged so I insisted they give me a new battery which they did. I installed the new battery and tried starting the truck again. All it did was click. After turning the ignition on and off about 20 times the truck miraculously started and was fine for another week. Then it happened again so I had the starter removed and tested, found it to be defective and had a new starter installed. The truck started fine up until this January 2020. I started it with the remote starter and used it for some errands. Later in the day I went to start the truck and all that happened was the dash lights and headlights would turn on, but the starter wouldn't crank. After trying several suggestions such as locking and unlocking the doors, trying to start in neutral, trying with brake on, switching the starter relay, nothing worked. I tested all the fuses with a test light and found they were all OK. I then inserted the key into the ignition and just as I turned it to the accessory position the truck started! I turned it on and off several times and also with the remote starter and it started fine. The next morning I went to start the truck and it would not start again!

I used my OBDII code reader and no trouble codes were shown. I used my multimeter and found proper voltage was running to the fuse box. I tried jumping a battery cable from the negative battery post to the engine block and turning on the ignition without success. I disconnected the positive battery cable and left it disconnected overnight. After reconnecting the positive battery cable the next day the truck would still not start. I decided it was time to take it to my local independent garage who has a knowledgeable automotive electric technician. To start the truck I wrapped a jumper wire around the top left prong of the starter relay, reinserted the relay into the fuse block, turned the ignition to the start position and touched the other end of the jumper wire momentarily to the positive post on the left side of the fuse block and the starter turned over and the the truck started! I pulled out the starter relay, removed the jumper wire and reinstalled the starter relay. I drove the truck to my independent garage, shut off the engine and started it up again a few times without any problem.

I advised the technician of the problems I was experiencing and noted that in the last year the truck had a new battery, new starter, new spark plugs & wires, a new ground wire from the drivers side firewall to the engine block at the alternator (as recommended by other GM truck owners) and a new oil pressure sensor installed (located at back of engine close to firewall and very difficult to replace). The technician diagnosed the electrical problem and found there was a very poor ground running to the bottom left prong of the starter relay. He said there was an internal fault with the electronics in the fuse block which could not be repaired and would require a new fuse block at a cost of over $600 CAD from General Motors. To circumvent the no crank problem he ran a negative jumper wire from the bottom left prong of the starter relay to the ground location on the engine block at the alternator. This has remedied the situation until I can find a suitable replacement fuse block.

It appears there are numerous GM truck owners who are experiencing this dreadful and most inconvenient intermittent no crank no start problem and that there are possibly thousands of these defective fuse blocks that could leave individuals stranded in severe climate circumstances with no means of returning from a trip safely. Perhaps General Motors and the NTSB (National Transportation Safety Board) need to investigate this very serious and potentially life threatening safety defect.

Check out this YouTube video which explains problems with the faulty fuse blocks and how to replace them.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=25gYezR_k6c
 
canfirst said:
The technician diagnosed the electrical problem and found there was a very poor ground running to the bottom left prong of the starter relay. He said there was an internal fault with the electronics in the fuse block which could not be repaired and would require a new fuse block at a cost of over $600 CAD from General Motors. To circumvent the no crank problem he ran a negative jumper wire from the bottom left prong of the starter relay to the ground location on the engine block at the alternator.

That is awesome stuff. A lot of so-called 'techs' just shot-gun parts at the vehicle... :rolleyes:
Here's proof that most times a very aggravating problem turns out to be a very simple reason. It's just a matter of finding that reason!  (y)

CarMech1969
 
Glad to hear that you were able to get the issue diagnosed and now you know what part to get to fully fix the issue.
 
GoldBowTie said:
:welcome: canfirst,  awesome first post  (y)
Thank you for the compliments fellow Avalanche Owners! After garnering a lot of great information from Members of this Fan Club I felt it was my duty to assist so many other Members that are experiencing this perplexing problem and help them save some money on their repairs. Please feel free to share this "Problem Solved" post with other GM vehicle owners who may be experiencing the same issue. If there are thousands of GM vehicle's with this same issue perhaps it should be reported to the NHTSA as it could potentially become a Life Safety issue if someone becomes stranded in the middle of nowhere with no means of calling for help. Also current owners should carry a suitable jumper wire to start their vehicle in case this happens to them. Carrying an emergency jumper wire (and knowing how to use it) is a lot cheaper than having to hire a tow truck. Thanks and Good Luck!
 
I know this thread is about 6 months old, but I'm looking for some guidance on a no-start issue. My problem is similar to what the OP described, but almost exactly what canfirst described. I watched the YouTube video that he posted. My ground wire is in tact, though I should probably clean up the contacts. So here's where I'm at.

I first lost my high beams due to a bad fuse block. They were stuck on, actually, so I pulled the fuse. Everything else was fine until recently. It would crank slow at random for no apparent reason (battery is good). Sometimes it would start, sometimes I had to crank it again. It would always crank normally on the second attempt. Sometimes when it started the dash would light up like a Christmas tree - ABS disabled, Stabilitrak disabled, etc. If I shut it off an restarted it would be fine most of the time. If the warning lights wouldn't go away, I would shut it off, remove the underhood fuseblock and then put it back in. Everything would work fine again for a while. I went to take the truck out this past weekend and it's not cranking. Everything else works and the battery is fine. I can hear the starter relay clicking when I turn the key.

I ordered a starter before I saw this thread. I'm leaning toward the ground at the starter. The truck (an '07) is VERY rusty and I've had to replace grounds at the frame that completely rotted away. Where does the existing starter ground attach? Does it go to the battery or elsewhere?
 
starter normally grounds when it is bolted to block.
No wire... just the metal to metal touching.
 
That's what I thought, but canfirst said they fixed his by running a ground wire from the ear of the starter? So I guess the question is ground to where?
 
Well I am unsure the ground wires on your year... but normally batery ground goes to BLOCK and FRAME.

Then they have ground wires thru-out truck with wires they eventually get back to frame or block. which then well go back to battery.

So if you have to ground starter with another wire tells me the engine block ground wire needs replacing.
OR the surfaces where starter contacts block need cleaning.
 
Hopefully just cleaned. I can see the body-to-block wire is in tact. I haven't looked at the battery-to-block yet. Should probably clean that as well. But everything else is good - lights are bright, locks work, windows go up and down. Maybe it is just the starter? The odd behavior leading up to this is what has me concerned. Also had a "Service charging system" (or something to that effect) that went away on its own.
 
Back
Top