So,
I've added a subwoofer and amp to my 2003 Bose equipped AV. After pulling power from the "remote + side jumper cable" location thru the firewall, pulling "auto on" power from the drivers side dash fuse panel 4WD fuse (I have a Z66), tracing down and tapping the rear speaker leads, running all the wiring underneath the back drivers side seat, cutting-splicing, splicing-cutting, oh the joys of accessory amp installs!
Here are the results. YMMV.
Before I did any serious wiring, I first tapped the rear speaker leads (splicing into the existing speaker wires in the B pillar) by just plugging in another full range speaker. Okay, there's sound but it's really not as loud as the factory door speaker. I tested both sides with the same results. I had a clean speaker level signal, just not that much of it.
I went ahead and installed the rest of the system wiring and hooked everything up. In my older vehicles using the exact same components, the amp was only turned up to about 4. I now have it wide open and there's barely any volume out of the sub cabinet! Hmmm. Not happy. All the wiring is correct, nothing crossed or out of phase.
A trip to the local electronics store for a "speaker to line-level" converter helped (my amp can run either input), but I still have to run the amp wide open.
Is the Bose amp speaker out levels really that low? Are the factory Bose speakers really that efficient? Has it anything to do with the serial buss wiring GM uses on the 03 AV? I scratchith my graying head!
All in all, it works. I have added bass. I'm just not happy with running the amp wide open. One spike and it's launched voice coil time!
I'm running a single JLAudio 10" sub in a sealed box with a 200-watt RMS amp. Peak is 600 if memory serves... all new wiring. I could go to a 12" or dual 10" box but I used the same setup in a 94' Silverado, a 2000 Tahoe, and a 2001 SVT Lightning, with good results with having to crank the amp.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance!
I've added a subwoofer and amp to my 2003 Bose equipped AV. After pulling power from the "remote + side jumper cable" location thru the firewall, pulling "auto on" power from the drivers side dash fuse panel 4WD fuse (I have a Z66), tracing down and tapping the rear speaker leads, running all the wiring underneath the back drivers side seat, cutting-splicing, splicing-cutting, oh the joys of accessory amp installs!
Here are the results. YMMV.
Before I did any serious wiring, I first tapped the rear speaker leads (splicing into the existing speaker wires in the B pillar) by just plugging in another full range speaker. Okay, there's sound but it's really not as loud as the factory door speaker. I tested both sides with the same results. I had a clean speaker level signal, just not that much of it.
I went ahead and installed the rest of the system wiring and hooked everything up. In my older vehicles using the exact same components, the amp was only turned up to about 4. I now have it wide open and there's barely any volume out of the sub cabinet! Hmmm. Not happy. All the wiring is correct, nothing crossed or out of phase.
A trip to the local electronics store for a "speaker to line-level" converter helped (my amp can run either input), but I still have to run the amp wide open.
Is the Bose amp speaker out levels really that low? Are the factory Bose speakers really that efficient? Has it anything to do with the serial buss wiring GM uses on the 03 AV? I scratchith my graying head!
All in all, it works. I have added bass. I'm just not happy with running the amp wide open. One spike and it's launched voice coil time!
I'm running a single JLAudio 10" sub in a sealed box with a 200-watt RMS amp. Peak is 600 if memory serves... all new wiring. I could go to a 12" or dual 10" box but I used the same setup in a 94' Silverado, a 2000 Tahoe, and a 2001 SVT Lightning, with good results with having to crank the amp.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance!