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CHANGED SHOCKS NOW HAVE SERVICE SUSPENSION SYSTEM

spearus

Full Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2014
Messages
25
Location
Blenheim Ontario
Took my 07 into my mechanic.  My air bags were blow out in the back and the oil is all leaked out of the front drivers side.  The compressor is gone too.  So he put on standard 3/4 tonne in the rear and disconnected the compressor.  It still has to go back in to get the front suspension fixed. 


Now i have the service suspension system
service stabilitrak
and traction control

also the ABS light is on now.

Prior to fixing the rear shocks...i had no lights or warnings what so ever.

Having him disconnect the compressor cause all this?

Is it a big deal?  I have not notice it causing an problems while driving.  Is there a fuse or something i can pull?

He looked at the front suspension and greased everything else up, but still has to change out the front.

Help
 
I'm guessing you have a LTZ
 
you cant unplug the compressor. plug it back in. itll set a code for the pressure release valve. if it doesnt work anyway, no harm in leaving it plugged in. I dont know that the shocks being unplugged will set codes. We did it to one truck, with no issues, but it was an older burban.
 
just looked into it, the shocks being unplugged can set open circuit codes. you may need to install a resistor on each corner to trick the ESC modlue into thinking the actuators are there.
 
OK. 2007 ltz rear air ride changed out to standard shocks.

put standard 3/4 tonne shocks on the back.  My mechanic couldn't figure out how to complete the circut to get rid of the service stabletrak service traction control service suspension messages, and ABS light that are still coming up every time i start the truck.  The compressor is shot so there is no point dishing out the cash for the air ride shocks and compressor. the 3/4 shocks seem nice and smooth.  Anyone have any ideas to complete the circut or can i pull a fuse to the compressor?  anyone else run into this? 

I would love a video if anyone has one
 
Best money spent would be to put the truck back to it's intended configuration.

The cost of OEM replacement gear has come way down in the past couple of years.

I chose to go even less expensive and used the replacement shocks and air compressor from Arrnott Industries.

With 30,000 miles on my Arnott gear, I have absolutely no complaints.

Your mechanic will continue to chase his tail until he understands how the system works.

First mistake someone made was to replace the original shocks with any shock that does not plug into the truck's computer system.

If non-OEM shocks are installed (like the Arnott shocks which come with this bypass device), then some sort of bypass device must be included that are designed to simulate the presence of a shock to the computer system.

Otherwise, you will forever get the error message in the DIC.

Next, there are sensor devices mounted between the truck's frame and suspension that report to the computer the current height of the truck.

OEM air shocks will RAISE the rear end of the truck a certain amount over the height you will get with either a blown out air shock OR and a replacement non-air shock.

My truck's rear end sits a full inch higher when in it's normal height as opposed to an inch lower when I had the blown out air shocks still installed.

If your mechanic can not find a way to adjust those height sensors to find the "sweet spot" that the computer is looking for, you will always get that error message in the DIC.

Your 3/4 ton or whatever shocks you have installed are not going to "lift" the rear of the truck to satisfy those sensors.

They are not designed to do that.

Pulling fuses and cutting wires isn't going to get you to where you want to be.

My advice would be to put the truck back to the way it was designed.

If money is your determining factor, then do it one component at a time.

I would say start with the air compressor so that you are not going to be driving around with new air shocks for a while without them having any air in the bladders.

You could just leave the new compressor sitting in it's box until you have a chance to gather up the new air shocks.

Once you have all of your new parts bought and paid for and sitting there, spend a day putting your parts on and say goodbye to the error message in the DIC.

If that is not the direction you want to go, that's cool too.

You or your guy will have to determine how to satisfy the computer in regard to the sensors located at each shock (hint: there are guys on other forums that have determined what resistor is required. Think Cadillac and GMC Denali.)

Then you guys will have to locate and rig each of the ride height sensors on the frame to fool the computer into thinking the ride height is correct.

One thing I am not clear on is if the air compressor is monitored and has to be plugged into the system in order to prevent an error message.

If the compressor is not monitored and the computer is kicking error messages only because it does not see the expected shocks and it can not achieve and maintain it's intended ride height, then the hacks I mentioned above should get rid of the messages for you.

Me, I'd fix the truck properly (I did) and be done with it.
 
EXT4ME nice post you explained it well. To me the biggest concern is the ABS light and whether the truck would pass inspection if you live in a state that has that. I understand that for a six or seven year-old vehicle the cost to repair Autoride shocks is pretty high relative to the vehicle's declining value and therefore it's harder to justify spending a lot of extra money on Autoride shocks when regular shocks will be good enough. Just between gas, registration, and insurance Avalanche has a pretty high cost of ownership to begin with. Me, I would take the money for replacing Autoride shocks and instead make a down payment on a new or newer truck.

But if the truck is otherwise roadworthy then nothing wrong with using regular shocks. Everything I've read says that the Autoride system is too intelligent and too integrated to be faked out or disabled. I would say the most cost-effective thing to do is live with the messages if that is all that is wrong with the truck right now. I guess it's a trade-off.
 
When I bought my Arnott air shocks back in May of 2012, they cost me $368.98 for the pair at Advance Auto.

The Arnott air compressor cost $223.99.

At the time, AA offered a $50 discount for ordering on-line so my total with tax was $586.42.

That was two years ago, so the prices have most likely changed since then.

I replaced the front shocks with Arnott units at a later date.

If someone wants to have their mechanic install the parts (I did), then there will also be a labor cost involved.

When I bought my truck, even though it was close to ten years old, I knew I was into it for the long haul.

I was prepared to spend quite a bit of money to bring as much as I could up to snuff.

That's just the way I roll.

This may not be the plan for everyone and I completely understand that.

You got to do what is right for you.

Good luck!

(y)

 
I understand being broke and on a budget.


100% agree to install components that make the system WORK like it was intended and don't try to bypass it because it won't do you any good or even save you that much money in the long run.


I bought 1 front OEM shock at a time off Amazon. $250 for the first one and $100(open box) for the second one. Arnott buys your blown rear shocks for $25 each, so you get a $50 refund in the mail after you swap the shocks.

Then about 6 months later I had the $550 saved up to buy the Arnott rear air shocks and compressor (cheapest option at the time and still retain stock function).


I had a couple gremlins that I couldn't fix right away, but it's all good now.
 
This is a pretty long thread, but a ton of info is posted in there. Might be confusing at times but if you need anything broke down to understand part #s or prices, don't be afraid to ask.

http://chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php/topic,131766.0.html
 
COULD I GET A LIST OF THE STOCK PARTS NEEDED FOR MY 07 LTZ SUSPENSION.

I HAVE THE FRONT ALL CHANGED OUT

I NEED THE REAR AIR RIDE AND COMPRESSOR, AND WHERE WOULD BE THE BEST PLACE TO GET THEM.
IM IN ONTARIO SO MIGHT COST MORE SHIPPING OVER FROM THE STATES.

THANKS EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP
 
Karl is a Canuk, and regularly in the states. Maybe he could smuggle you some parts, lol.


In all honesty, I have no idea how customs works. Just tryin to be funny.
 
Best money spent would be to put the truck back to it's intended configuration.

The cost of OEM replacement gear has come way down in the past couple of years.

I chose to go even less expensive and used the replacement shocks and air compressor from Arrnott Industries.

With 30,000 miles on my Arnott gear, I have absolutely no complaints.

Your mechanic will continue to chase his tail until he understands how the system works.

First mistake someone made was to replace the original shocks with any shock that does not plug into the truck's computer system.

If non-OEM shocks are installed (like the Arnott shocks which come with this bypass device), then some sort of bypass device must be included that are designed to simulate the presence of a shock to the computer system.

Otherwise, you will forever get the error message in the DIC.

Next, there are sensor devices mounted between the truck's frame and suspension that report to the computer the current height of the truck.

OEM air shocks will RAISE the rear end of the truck a certain amount over the height you will get with either a blown out air shock OR and a replacement non-air shock.

My truck's rear end sits a full inch higher when in it's normal height as opposed to an inch lower when I had the blown out air shocks still installed.

If your mechanic can not find a way to adjust those height sensors to find the "sweet spot" that the computer is looking for, you will always get that error message in the DIC.

Your 3/4 ton or whatever shocks you have installed are not going to "lift" the rear of the truck to satisfy those sensors.

They are not designed to do that.

Pulling fuses and cutting wires isn't going to get you to where you want to be.

My advice would be to put the truck back to the way it was designed.

If money is your determining factor, then do it one component at a time.

I would say start with the air compressor so that you are not going to be driving around with new air shocks for a while without them having any air in the bladders.

You could just leave the new compressor sitting in it's box until you have a chance to gather up the new air shocks.

Once you have all of your new parts bought and paid for and sitting there, spend a day putting your parts on and say goodbye to the error message in the DIC.

If that is not the direction you want to go, that's cool too.

You or your guy will have to determine how to satisfy the computer in regard to the sensors located at each shock (hint: there are guys on other forums that have determined what resistor is required. Think Cadillac and GMC Denali.)

Then you guys will have to locate and rig each of the ride height sensors on the frame to fool the computer into thinking the ride height is correct.

One thing I am not clear on is if the air compressor is monitored and has to be plugged into the system in order to prevent an error message.

If the compressor is not monitored and the computer is kicking error messages only because it does not see the expected shocks and it can not achieve and maintain it's intended ride height, then the hacks I mentioned above should get rid of the messages for you.

Me, I'd fix the truck properly (I did) and be done with it.
Great post 👍Who’s products Did you use for your replacement.I have a 2011 LTZ I’ve had since new with 90k miles it’s getting bouncy its time to replace .
Thanks Kevin
 
I have Arnott front shocks, rear air shocks and air compressor on my EXT.

No complaints whatsoever.

Arnott Industries
 
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