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Long tube Headers question

xKingdom

Full Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2021
Messages
195
Location
Wisconsin, USA
Hey everyone, living in the salt belt is rough on the northern trucks, especially on exhaust manifold bolts. I got mine off and plan on replacing the bolts with Stainless steel. While I have the headers off I’ve been thinking about switching to long tube headers. I want to know if it’s possible to get a Y pipe with cats? I like the noise of long tubes and exhaust, but I don’t care for the clapping noise without cats. Anyone have recommendations? I also hear I would need a tune for long tubes. I currently have Diablo sport tunes so I’m wondering if I can just stick with those?

Hope some noise boys get back to me! Thanks,
-xKingdom
 
I put headers on my 302V8 F150 ('92).. I was irked the OEM exhaust manifold cracked @ <100K miles

I had to reweld the Y pipe to fit properly.

I didn't do anything to the tune (fuel injected, mixture controlled by O2 sensors)

The good news is when I replaced the starter I paid extra and got one with a lifetime warranty. The bad news is the headers cooked 'several starters and they only lasted about a year.. Therefore; it was an annual PM to pull the starter, have Autozone agree it was dead, get the lifetime replacement.
In hindsight I should have wrapped the headers.. But I was younger then and laying on back didn't hurt as much:):):)
 
Dynatech used to make a set for our trucks, but I don't see them on their website anymore. I did find a set of OBX brand long tube headers, with cats, for about $400. Granted, OBX is Chinese, but I have ran several of their products over the years without any issues. In fact, I have a set of their headers on my 2012 Camaro SS currently, and they are about 10 years old. Here is the link that I found: Long Tube Headers.

-Scott
 
I have had the OBX LT's on my Avy for at least 12 years. They have cats but placement distance of the o2 sensors are not enough to register properly. If you buy a spacer that moves the rear sensor out away from the main stream on each, it should take care of that. But if you don't get a tune for LT headers, than you are leaving untapped horsepower out there.
 
I have had the OBX LT's on my Avy for at least 12 years. They have cats but placement distance of the o2 sensors are not enough to register properly. If you buy a spacer that moves the rear sensor out away from the main stream on each, it should take care of that. But if you don't get a tune for LT headers, than you are leaving untapped horsepower out there.
This might be a dumb question but Wil the Silverado and Sierra 1500 fit direct to a avalanche? I have a 2008 and when I email about header for the Sierra or Silverado they they say they don't fit
 
This might be a dumb question but Wil the Silverado and Sierra 1500 fit direct to an avalanche? I have a 2008 and when I email about header for the Sierra or Silverado they they say they don't fit
They do have the same motor and exhaust setup to the 3rd cat. From the cat back it is different as the Avalanche is built off the suburban chassis.
 
Perfect thank you, I won't be going with the y pipe or any cats. Just headers to x pipe resonators and if too loud mufflers.
 
They do have the same motor and exhaust setup to the 3rd cat. From the cat back it is different as the Avalanche is built off the suburban chassis.
Sorry I was just told they will not work, something about the clearence is different truck to suv?
 
Sorry I was just told they will not work, something about the clearence is different truck to suv?
They should all be the same, I’ve worked on quite a few of these trucks over the years and as far as I can tell they worked. If you are interested in LTs let me know I’ll send you the ones I bought
 
I bought long tubes but apparently they won't fit because mine is a 4x4, and also I was told shorties are better for low end torque
 
Couple of notes, Shorties are just different than manifolds. The only thing that creates power are long tube headers. There are some out there that work fine with 4x4. Just need to find them for an SUV. Shorties are pretty useless unless you just want them to look different.

As far as manifold bolts go. ONLY use manifold bolts. Do NOT get higher grade bolts or SS bolts. SS or higher grade bolts are much more brittle than the standard manifold bolts and could be more difficult to remove when they break. They will break sooner than just using standard manifold bolts. The issue is the extreme differences of temperatures puts a LOT of stress on the bolts by then expanding and contracting all the time. Any bolt used in manifolds will break eventually. Going to a stronger or stainless steel bolt will make them snap easier, not harder. And as I said already, may make them much harder to remove.
 
Couple of notes, Shorties are just different than manifolds. The only thing that creates power are long tube headers. There are some out there that work fine with 4x4. Just need to find them for an SUV. Shorties are pretty useless unless you just want them to look different.

As far as manifold bolts go. ONLY use manifold bolts. Do NOT get higher grade bolts or SS bolts. SS or higher grade bolts are much more brittle than the standard manifold bolts and could be more difficult to remove when they break. They will break sooner than just using standard manifold bolts. The issue is the extreme differences of temperatures puts a LOT of stress on the bolts by then expanding and contracting all the time. Any bolt used in manifolds will break eventually. Going to a stronger or stainless steel bolt will make them snap easier, not harder. And as I said already, may make them much harder to remove.
I second this. I ended up getting the OBX long tube headers with cats and crossover pipes. They sound AWESOME and I get so many compliments. I also found that ARP bolts are pretty great for manifolds. I’ve installed them on the last 3 trucks I’ve owned and they come out nice and I’ve never had any leaks.
 
I second this. I ended up getting the OBX long tube headers with cats and crossover pipes. They sound AWESOME and I get so many compliments. I also found that ARP bolts are pretty great for manifolds. I’ve installed them on the last 3 trucks I’ve owned and they come out nice and I’ve never had any leaks.
Yea I had a couple different performance shops tell me shorties are for looks, that they never saw power increases from shorties. Long headers that are any good are setup to blend the exhaust pulses together so they end up pulling each other through the pipes. Essentially like a venturi effect. The pressure wave from one ignition creates a vacuum behind it that the next one gets sucked into which promotes more air moving through your intake which increases power. Shorties don't do any of that.

Forced induction is a whole different animal. Then its essentially have as open pipes as possible. Although if you have a turbo or centrifugal blower the long headers can still boost the lower end torque, once they get into boost it really doesn't matter as long as the exhaust isn't restrictive at all. (Which is why you see quite a few with 4" exhausts running right out through the fender. )
 
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