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Wheel bearing life

BainMan

Full Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2019
Messages
1,216
I've got a new noise, pretty sure a front wheel bearing is on its way out... How many miles have you fine folks averaged before replacing wheel bearings? Do you personally replace in pairs as a precaution or just the failing one?

I'll lift it up this weekend and check for play. I think i hear the noise from front drivers, but i swear the noise is just a bit worse when turning left which would usually indicate passenger side.. Hopefully the assembly is loose enough to make the diag easier...
 
100K+ on oems
I replaced in pairs along with brakes.

Get good name brand else they can be junk and not last long.
 
ygmn said:
100K+ on oems
I replaced in pairs along with brakes.

Get good name brand else they can be junk and not last long.


This.

(y)
 
131k on the first set.. haven?t lifted it up to diag yet, hopefully tomorrow
 
She's pooched good, front passenger. 2 Timkens are on order, one with overnight delivery and the other will be in Thursday.

https://imgur.com/bKaTofr

 
You might want to replace your brakes at the same time since they have to be removed to replace the hubs.

Even if they don't have a lot of miles on them they can wear unevenly with the play in the hub and might not seat against the rotor correctly with the new hub in place and cause a safety issue with a loss in braking performance..
 
I agree with Randy.

I replaced both of my wheel bearing hubs, front brake pads and rotors and the CV axles all at one time, recently.

Since then, I also replaced my front differential and I have the rear brake pads and rotors sitting in the garage, waiting for me to get in the mood.

In your case, the front pads and rotors would be a good thing to consider.

You are going to enjoy the difference the new parts make.

(y)
 
Success! Front drivers side changed out
miwvOhI.jpg

She rides so quiet again! I really enjoy how quiet these trucks are

EXT4ME said:
In your case, the front pads and rotors would be a good thing to consider.


Randy said:
Even if they don't have a lot of miles on them they can wear unevenly with the play in the hub and might not seat against the rotor correctly with the new hub in place and cause a safety issue with a loss in braking performance..
I would've really liked to replace it all.. Someone refreshed the pads not too long before I got it and except for the rust lip on the rotors the face was very smooth and no noticeable pitting or grooves, keeping current for now but it would've been nice to slap on brand new while I had it off anyway especially considering the play in the hub before replacing it..
 
Oh and one tip, you guys probably already know this or a better trick but to remove the axle nut you can place a a screw driver between the caliper into the rotor 'veins' to keep the CV shaft from turning. If you have a 2nd person, they can just hold the brake pedal which clamps the caliper onto the rotor, but the trick shown works when you're working solo!

RL0MWAz.jpg
 
When I did mine a little while back, I left the wheels on the ground and busted the axle nuts loose from there.

It was then I found someone had previously over-torqued the axle nuts.

We do not have to deal with rust here.

I spent way too much time and effort trying to get them to bust loose.

I used penetrating oil and heat, to no avail.

I ended up breaking the head off of a brand new, long breaker bar I had just bought for this project when using my four foot cheater pipe for extra grunt.

I snapped the part of the breaker bar that attaches to the socket clean off.

I tried to break them loose with my battery powered impact wrench, that had no effect whatsoever.

I had to go buy a plug in impact wrench (I do not have an air set up and I was not interested in investing in one just for this project.) that had much higher torque rating than my battery rig.

It took a good 15-20 seconds at 350 lb ft to finally get the axle nut to break loose.

The torque spec for those axle nuts is 150 lb ft.

My battery impact is rated well above that, at around 250 lb ft, and should have easily broke those nuts loose.

:E:
 
That was seriously stuck if you broke a decent 1/2" breaker! I used hand tools for this job.. I've got a decent 3/8 air impact but it's not always worth starting the compressor, uncoiling the hose, and then the dang impact gun doesn't fit in the space anyway most of the time. Glad you've got that new high torque electric, I'd like something that size too. My 1/4" milwaukee impact driver get's used all the time around the house, but it's sure not going to spin an axle nut!
 
I used my impact when I did this job a couple years ago.  Life after I bought the impact has been SOOOO much better.

maUTtI2PKc_HoITAxFn2GKNs3qdW922lGPBuMtAXGoAuZYwEthB_zVooMeJJ1IAciT8ldzsWStHM6_xZK0VzZ8kmo0pulBzJ7BUzthGDNwWxfEbINNa1VCShykp7Cwl4aLMdbD6SwXoMO0HCFVl3VA2Am_CAfP2_ydEMPPf7YjPkn-p9uqc95nTGygDWo63GaCCKmRFQPzg5s7-a34JEG7N5w9wUo8Ss7JkilRzsiXIO0sEcLn4O7ArQQ9SgN6oQ2Cn61dXM-4v7jxeVIssIAWLV82Y2Rn6UM2JhgnwrxbP7ylZJC6Kf-NZ3jF7WgxeqdRrSGiW6jvgnHPBMgHXYjEWx1b7GfjVxvagYDYvWiO7A4PHvFNOcPyz2LjNNLneZ97nar_3Fo0XXcqorQ-cS3onWt9Ovxnt22_kQF6-1YnTOLYp-hs8KsNQo-ZzTTTK2jmqIXmd0Z8oAzxaGx5cmVOcy1mTxXBn0dobqaLRSaDnbeg-tu5UfzqVvtpgZPJjsgp4eKp_qDp8l6wRhkTAhjJ7zGT9qDF1NBaFya7bHwYHuSuJ3KNhrPOhDa-GfRU8_EqcpsJGKq99c2aYpfH1UyGMKf8meBoYN9UGgK7UQ1-dMxzojnr_dMiBqSFLgQMc4GrtCRJ_g56DeTkxNjomIaJPLhKxe2FPBVDh1NCbrpFjAX_5Dm8GBwBocMbYkmDu37z-_ejJJxfcVAVTn_HIfsMbJ16wPQCybB-EKVJZL3jLTxxFvyQ=w528-h937-no
 
frito said:
I used my impact when I did this job a couple years ago.  Life after I bought the impact has been SOOOO much better.

maUTtI2PKc_HoITAxFn2GKNs3qdW922lGPBuMtAXGoAuZYwEthB_zVooMeJJ1IAciT8ldzsWStHM6_xZK0VzZ8kmo0pulBzJ7BUzthGDNwWxfEbINNa1VCShykp7Cwl4aLMdbD6SwXoMO0HCFVl3VA2Am_CAfP2_ydEMPPf7YjPkn-p9uqc95nTGygDWo63GaCCKmRFQPzg5s7-a34JEG7N5w9wUo8Ss7JkilRzsiXIO0sEcLn4O7ArQQ9SgN6oQ2Cn61dXM-4v7jxeVIssIAWLV82Y2Rn6UM2JhgnwrxbP7ylZJC6Kf-NZ3jF7WgxeqdRrSGiW6jvgnHPBMgHXYjEWx1b7GfjVxvagYDYvWiO7A4PHvFNOcPyz2LjNNLneZ97nar_3Fo0XXcqorQ-cS3onWt9Ovxnt22_kQF6-1YnTOLYp-hs8KsNQo-ZzTTTK2jmqIXmd0Z8oAzxaGx5cmVOcy1mTxXBn0dobqaLRSaDnbeg-tu5UfzqVvtpgZPJjsgp4eKp_qDp8l6wRhkTAhjJ7zGT9qDF1NBaFya7bHwYHuSuJ3KNhrPOhDa-GfRU8_EqcpsJGKq99c2aYpfH1UyGMKf8meBoYN9UGgK7UQ1-dMxzojnr_dMiBqSFLgQMc4GrtCRJ_g56DeTkxNjomIaJPLhKxe2FPBVDh1NCbrpFjAX_5Dm8GBwBocMbYkmDu37z-_ejJJxfcVAVTn_HIfsMbJ16wPQCybB-EKVJZL3jLTxxFvyQ=w528-h937-no

Isn't that the truth!

The corded impact I bought was a Craftsman 350 lb ft model.

I have since used it when any fastener tried to give me any grief.

I gotta get my money's worth out of it, now.

(y)
 
BainMan said:
Nice impact socket set too frito!
Thanks. If I could go back in time, I would have bought this setup vs. the Craftsman mechanics set I bought.  That was a nice set at the time, but all the metrics are 12 point vs 6 point.  This set has become my go to even when using a normal socket wrennch.  I just put the case next to me and have everything in reach.  Granted, my first set had the 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 inch sets, screwdrivers, Allen wrenches, etc. but most of the time I find myself using these unless I need to drop down to an 8 or 10 mm socket.
 
2004 z71 and 150,000 miles.

Mine just went out 2 weeks ago. I had been hearing a metallic hum for about a year but couldn't pin point where it was from.
Thought it was the a Breaks or Rear Diff, serviced them and they were fine.
Then the day before i went on my Christmas vacation I got the LOUD grinding noise from the front drive side.

So I order the CV axle and Wheel hub.
Then figured since I would have all of the tools out and the front end taken apart I might as well change the Inner and Outer Tie Rods and Sway Bar Links.

Everything went smooth until it was time to get the hub out of the housing.
Took about a day to finally get enough penetrating oil and heat in there to loosen it up, then i had to use a hammer to knock it out using the three bolts with a 15mm socket as the "nail head".
 
billybatts said:
Everything went smooth until it was time to get the hub out of the housing.
Took about a day to finally get enough penetrating oil and heat in there to loosen it up, then i had to use a hammer to knock it out using the three bolts with a 15mm socket as the "nail head".
It came out easy, this time, for me. Had an '03 expedition with a stuck front hub like yours. After heat, penetrant and the BFH I ended up putting the wheel back on, laying under the truck flat on my back kicking the tire outward. The benefit here, besides the additional leverage, is that I could hit on the left and right sides back and forth; with the hammer I was limited to hitting one side of the hub. Obviously make sure the vehicle is supported very well before doing this. 

Edit: Why replace the cv axle? Was there an issue or is that common to replace the hub/bearing and half shaft together?
 
I'm glad to hear you got it done, billybatts.

Luckily for me, my hubs slipped right out.

It's nice to not have to deal with some of the rust issues so many of the owners do.

I did spray the hub mounting surface with Castle Muscle Grease at reassembly.

One of the Youtube mechanics that has a shop up north, recommended that product.

I doubt I will have any rust issues where I live.

But, I figured it couldn't hurt.
 
BainMan said:
Edit: Why replace the cv axle? Was there an issue or is that common to replace the hub/bearing and half shaft together?
I wish I replaced my CV axle when I replaced my hub.  While I didn't see any immediate signs of it being bad, I think it was (still is) such that the new hub is prematurely worn.  This spring before our huge road trip to who knows where, I'm going to replace pretty much my whole front end - tie rods, control arms, etc. As well as both CV axles, one or both hub assemblies, shocks and so forth.  I have a wobble that I just can't figure out as well as the bearing grind while applying the brakes hard.  I see Moog has a kit that includes almost all the front end components.
 
BainMan said:
Edit: Why replace the cv axle? Was there an issue or is that common to replace the hub/bearing and half shaft together?

It was sort of a misdiagnosis on my part because I jacked up the truck i had a wobble at the front driver wheel and figured it was a bad CV joint. So i had actually order the CV axle the day BEFORE the hub went out...lol

But i have also heard that if one goes bad other to could go bad sooner rather than later, so i'm glad i did replace both at once.
 
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