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Brake Pads

C

CoAvalanche

Full Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2003
Messages
58
Location
Pueblo, CO
Has anybody replaced their brake pads? Is this an easy job? I bought some pads today, but haven't had the guts to tackle the job yet. Any input would be appreciated.
 
If you have ever replaced disc brake bads before, it is not that bad of a job. Here is some useful information here. It gives some of the details, pictures and tools needed to get the calipers off.

I have not actually replaced the brake shoes themself, but have replaced the parking brake shoes on the back brakes. The whole job shouldn't take you more than a couple of hours.

Have Fun!
 
If you have any amount of mechanical ability, than I would say changing your own break pads is about the most cost effective maintenance you can do. With the Avy having 4 wheel disk, its even easier, although I assume you will only have to do the fronts right now. You take off the front wheel, unbolt the caliper, and compress the piston in the caliper with a large C-clamp and then off comes the caliper. Take the old pads out, snap the new ones in and use plenty of that antisqueak stuff on the back sides and put it back together. Before you start the process, pump the breaks with the vehicle off to remove any leftover vacuum in the system and then open the break fluid resovoir cap. This will make compressing the calipers to get them off a little easier. I feel this is the most "difficult" part.
Bottom line, if you can turn a wrench, you can probably change out your pads without much of a problem, but if it's going to cause you stress or worry, than maybe the price of service may be worth it. Good luck!!

Trev
 
I have wondered about this, too. My right rear wheel is quietly squealing now when I apply the brakes. I don't want it to get too bad before changing it and would like to do it myself. Thanks for the info.
 
I did mine this weekend, all you pretty much need is a set of metric wrenchs, and some time. Something was up with mine cause My fronts look brand new but the rears were all gone ??? But no It was totally an easy job, undo the 2 bolts that hold the calipers on and pull the calipers off and then pull out the used pads.

Good idea... Goto napa and get a spray can of brake squeek, you spray the back of the pads and silences the pads instead of squeeking.

PM me if you have any questions
 
I swapped my OEM pads out for Hawk Performance pads about 3 weeks ago.
Really easy to do, as long as you have Torx bits I think it takes a T-55 bit.
Can't remember the exact size.
And, they are tight.

After replacing my pads, I sprayed my calipers with Silver paint.
Looks very cool now.

Rob
 
In reading the above posts, I did not see anything about having the rotors turned (re-surfaced).

In the 1980's it was strongly recommended that when you change the brake pads you also have the rotors turned. Has this changed?

What is the consensus here? Do the rotors need to be turned when replacing brake pads?

Just interested in everyone's thoughts on this.

KB5
 
It IS still recommended that you turn, and clean, the rotors.
But I inspected my pretty closely, and determined that they were fine.
I will have them turned next summer though.
I keep a pretty close watch on my brakes.

Rob
 
Have not changed the brakes on the AV yet because she is only 2 months old. But on my surburban depending on how bad the rotors were i just replace them easy to do. Repack wheel bearings. If your going that route make sure you have all the parts then you don't have to keep going back to the auto store. ;D
 
As far as turning the rotors, I seriously doubt they would need it this early. The indication that the rotors need to be turned would be a pulsing sensation as the breaks are applied. If there is no pulsing sensation in the break pedal, it is doubtful the rotors need to be turned. If you turn the rotors prematurely, you will actually slightly decrease your breaking ability becuase you are taking away metal from the rotors which is used to disipate the heat from breaking. Less metal equals less heat dissipation, which equals less breaking ability. Bottom line, if you don't sense the problem, there is no reason to try to fix it.

Trev
 
Napa also has Squeek Relief made by Lubeguard just wipe rotors clean and spray em up good, reassemble. This Squeek Relief actually conditions the rotor. My $.02 Matt
 
Some recomendations...from a guy who does his own brakes and drives tons of miles....

Always let the dealer do the first brake job...
I had a Blazer and the very first time I took out the caliper bolts they stripped out....the factory had put them in too tight and the threads came out with the bolts....
Nothing I could do under warrenty cause the dealer said I stripped them...although I'm not sure how to strip bolts taking them out....
Now I always let the dealer do the first one...and check the bolts when they are done...

Never leave the caliper hanging by the brake line...
Use a piece of coat hanger so you don't strain the brake line and get into a big mess.

Never pump the pedal while the caliper is off...
It flies apart and you have to get a new one!!!

Always give the rotors a good cleaning with brake cleaner when you are done.

If you are going to do your own brakes make it easy on yourself

Before you put the caliper bolts back in...
Coat them with some anti-sieze ...its silver stuff comes in a small bottle with a brush..makes it easier to get out next time...even when the bolts have been heated and cooled many times..and covered in brake dust...

I always get a second set of rotors...
When I take a set of rotors off I put the new ones on and then get the old ones resurfaced at my leasure..then I put the good ones on the shelf for the next brake change...wrap them up to avoid rust. That way the brake pad change doesn't take you all day waiting for your rotors to be resurfaced...you can drive your truck over to the shop and hand them to the guy and pick them up another day....


With my old Blazer I could do a front brake job for about $35...the dealer wanted $240....it's worth doing your own work...
 
Brake Pads are fairly simple once you have done them, as far as rotors, 30,000 is when they need to be turn on a machine, depending how you drive. But remember the more they cut off, the faster they warp.
Heat from the pads is distributed to the rotor, and causes the rotor to warp, not alot but to an extent, if you feel any shaking in the wheel when hittting the brakes, it better to replace the rotor then resurface, there again a simple job while you have done most of the work getting the pads off. ;)
 
Is it best to do all four wheels at the same time? Is it ok to do just the back?

I'm assuming replacing just the one that's squealing is not a good idea.
 
you can do just the back or just the front.....bnut never do just the left or right....

Rmember they may wear out at different rates.....so still inspect often and inspect all of them
 
I was told by a Mercedes/Volvo mechanic that its better to crack the bleed screw to release the piston back. You can do it by way of forcing the fluid back to the master cyl. but its a little hard on some components.

Of course you have to be careful NOT to let any air in the lines this way.

Dino
 
FYI before you replace your pads look to see how much is left on the pads. Just cause you hear some squealing does not mean you need new pads. There are 2 different types of squealing. One from dirt coming between your pads and the rotor. Usually goes away after a little while. The other squealing is from a peace of metal guide that starts to squeal when the pads are running out. That is the one you have to look out for. That is why when you start hearing squealing you need to do a visual inspection on this metal guide. Too many brake shop change your pads way too early because you tell them your brakes are squealing. Take the extra time and take a look for yourself.

I now have 68K miles and the pads still look really good. Have they ever squealed?? Yes on and off. The first time was about 7K miles. The pads are made of ceramic and will last a look time. The only down side is they will squeal from time to time.

Now if you hear some metal to metal grinding from one side you need to get it check out very fast. On my last truck one of the calipers was getting stuck and eat the pads real quick. Also if you have any kind of pulling from one side when you brake. The last thing is if you have any pulsating when you applied the brakes. This usually mean you rotors are warpped. Does not mean your pads are bad. You might just need to get the rotor turned. What most people do is replace the pads and get the rotors turned since you already have the parts off.
 
Prince_FuFu said:
I swapped my OEM pads out for Hawk Performance pads about 3 weeks ago.
Really easy to do, as long as you have Torx bits I think it takes a T-55 bit.
Can't remember the exact size.
And, they are tight.

After replacing my pads, I sprayed my calipers with Silver paint.
Looks very cool now.

Rob
Click to expand...

Did you see improved stopping power with these pads? How about extra brake dust on the wheels, any problems there? What could I expect to pay for a set of these pads?

Butch
 
I HAVE AN 03 Z71 WITH 12000 MILES. ON MY LAST 2 CHEV TRUCKS I GOT 30-33 K ON FRONT BRAKES. NEVER HAD TO REPLACE REARS. I DO NOT TOW AND FOR THE MOST PART I AM NOT HARD ON BRAKES. WHAT AM I LOOKING AT WITH THE AV?
 
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