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FUEL DOOR:  AMP Research Vs. Pro-Fit Linear


Full Member
Mar 24, 2003
Louisville, OH
Was considering getting in on the group buy this week for the billet fuel door, and wanted some feedback. Price aside, is there anyone out there who has installed the Pro-Fit model? The looks and quality are amazing, but Im wondering how hard it was to install. And for you people that wend with the AMP model, how happy are you with it? Does it look like the real deal? I cant find good quality close ups. How do they look after a salty winter?
I had the same question about the AMP holding up. Specifically the tape used to secure it. What if gas runs out, will it eat the tape?

The photos of members rides witht he door look great. I just wonder about the long term "sticking power" and security of the installation.
I have the Pro-fit, and it is indeed a work of art.
It was relatively easy to install, but I did find I needed a couple of tools to tighten the nuts, as well as trim out the plastic bucket for the cam to slide back. It was expensive, but worth the money spent, in my opinion. I feel like I definitely got what I paid for. There are many who would not justify the cost, but this was an item I really wanted.
I have spent a lot of time speaking to Randy at Pro-fit, including the possibility of a group buy. There is a lot of work that goes into these doors. They are not simply cut and polished. There is milling, moving mechanisms, and various coatings available to apply. If there is enough interest in a group buy, I can approach Randy again. Keep in mind that these doors are also electric, not just a basic metal flap that swings out.
Check out their website at Pro-fit

Also, here is a pic of the door on my Av.


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I do not have the AMP door, but I checked them out on a members ride at a GTG this past weekend. I was not interested in getting one until I saw it in person. Fit and finish was excellent. Looks very easy to install.

As for the long term sticking power, I am not sure which tape they use. Alot of vendors use the 3M tape which is great. Worse case scenario, you could pick up some 3M tape to replace the original stuff if you ever drenched it in gas. Considering where the tape is located on the door srround and the design of the filler area, I do not think you really need to worry about it getting "drenched" with gas and breaking down.
What is the difference in the price of the two, and the differences in installation and durability. I have seen the AMP on other members' rides, and I like the look, but I would like to get more of a comparisson before I buy.
I would however like to see a dual Billet GP for a billet fuel door and a billet grille. >:D (y)

-James R. :cool:
Hey James,
The comparisons are quite vast.

The AMP door and like types are basic, bolt in panel doors that function like the stock doors. They are nice quality and run about $150.

The Pro-fit doors are electric, and have mechanical cams that open and rotate the door over. Since they are electric, it also means that the door is locked as well, unless you trigger it from a keyring or switch. They are also finished in a bunch of different types of coatings, such as powder coat, polished clear coat, titanium bead type finishes, etc. They run about $350.
I have the AMP version, lots of advice here in earlier posts (when we first got into this mod) on how to best install, etc. - using the screws on both sides of the ring, for instance. no one I know used any double-sided tape.

one mod that seems to have gotten more comments than almost any other. wit that said, I have seen some seriously-slick fuel doors, lockable fuel doors, electric fuel doors, etc. - more $$ but there is more going on there. JP Customs has a GP going on the Amp version @ $135 shipped, btw.
Chopper said:
How do they look after a salty winter? ?
I have the Amp door, and after a very salty Buffalo winter, it still looks brand new. There is no sign of corrosion. And this is after a long winter where the truck mostly looked like this:



Chopper said:
Do the AMP ones screw on, bolt on, or tape on? Im getting mixed signals here.
Take a look at your existing fuel door. Open it up and look a the hinge. You will see two large Torx bolts that hold it in place. These bolts come out, and the old door is removed.

Then, a couple of clip-on nuts go over the two holes left by these bolts. The new door is pressed in place, it is a firm fit between the body of the hinge and the sheet metal. That is almost enough to hold it in place. Once the door is in, two bolts go through the frame of the door into the clip-on nuts that are in the original holes. That will hold the door tightly. Finally, there is a piece of double stick foam tape that holds down the far edge of the door frame, right near the finger pull dimple. At this point, the door is in so tight, that I don't think the tape really does much to hold it in. Even if the tape bond were to fail, I don't think it would make a difference.

-- SS


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