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HELP! I'm so Screwed

Joeface

SM 2004
Full Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2003
Messages
1,192
Location
Harrisburg, NC
I decided to change out the plugs today. As I work my way around, I come to the plug with the steering shaft in front of it. As I am removing the plug, it is fighting me the whole way out. All the others I broke free and they spun out by hand. Now that I try to replace that one it cross threads :8:
Does anyone have any advice as to where to go from here. I really don't want to run a tap in there to clean it up. I don't think that is a real good place for getting metal shavings in.
 
you are right. you do not want shavings to get inside the head. i have no real good news for you friend. i do have a question. i am a little confused. did it cross thread on the way out, or were you installing a new plug? if it was on the way out then it was cross threaded when installed. it would have been good if the removal was done at a dealership. then they would have been responsible.
 
Joeface said:
I decided to change out the plugs today. As I work my way around, I come to the plug with the steering shaft in front of it. As I am removing the plug, it is fighting me the whole way out. All the others I broke free and they spun out by hand. Now that I try to replace that one it cross threads :8:
Does anyone have any advice as to where to go from here. I really don't want to run a tap in there to clean it up. I don't think that is a real good place for getting metal shavings in.

Yup! your screwed!

get it towed to the dealership!

:6:
 
You could dip the tap in grease. That should hold the chips, especially if you backed it out and cleaned it and regreased it often.

Disclaimer. I've never done this, but it seems like it should work.
 
carndt said:
You could dip the tap in grease. That should hold the chips, especially if you backed it out and cleaned it and regreased it often.

Disclaimer. I've never done this, but it seems like it should work.


don't do it!! you already have an expensive problem on your hands. you do not want to make it worse by letting metal shavings go through the engine as well.
 
I believe I did it installing the new one, being it was so hard to get the old one out I couldn't start the new one by hand. I guess with the shaft there I couldn't get it straight enough. I'll fight it some more tomorrow.
 
Joeface said:
I believe I did it installing the new one, being it was so hard to get the old one out I couldn't start the new one by hand. I guess with the shaft there I couldn't get it straight enough. I'll fight it some more tomorrow.


very possible. not being able to get a straight shot may have caused the cross thread going in. sorry to hear that. take it to the dealer. let them give you a price to fix it.

or, this could be the perfect oppurtunity to upgrade. chances are the dealer is going to want an arm and a leg to repair that for you. see what they are asking. compare that to a set of upgraded heads from www.tbyrnemotorsports.com. not sure if that's the route you want to take. it's a good excuse for a mod.

btw, good luck. hope they do not hit you in the wallet too hard.
 
I know you dont wanna hear this... here is the ugly truth :8: You need to pull the head off :C: drill and tap the spark plug hole to the next largest spark plug size. Vaccuum the cylinder out of any garbage inside it. reinstall the head... and enjoy your AV
 
Arctic-AK-AV said:
I know you dont wanna hear this... here is the ugly truth :8: You need to pull the head off :C: drill and tap the spark plug hole to the next largest spark plug size. Vaccuum the cylinder out of any garbage inside it. reinstall the head... and enjoy your AV


that's what the dealer needs to do. not to be harsh, but if the head got damaged from a spark plug change i would not recommend you do the repair on your own. just my opinion.
 
you could go to a NAPA store and get what they call a "back tap thread chaser". It allow you to start from the inside (where the threads are most likely ok still) and chase the threads that way. As you turn it out, it cleans up threads. Not a cheap tool though, If I remember correctly its about 80 bucks. And the other question is do they have one on hand?

hth,
mi99z71
 
or if you pull head off, then you could use Heli-coil spark plug repair kit. It allows repair of damaged threads, and allows you to still use correct (OEM) heat range plug.
 
Hey coulden't he drive it into the dealer? It's a V8 missing one cylinder won't incapacitate the truck. It should run. You'll loose power, and the check engine light will come on. But when the computer detects that there is no spark in that cylinder it will shut off the gas, and trigger the light. Or you could unplug the wire above the cylinder for the injector. Might save you a tow bill.

My $ .02
JB
 
mi99z71 said:
you could go to a NAPA store and get what they call a "back tap thread chaser". It allow you to start from the inside (where the threads are most likely ok still) and chase the threads that way. As you turn it out, it cleans up threads. Not a cheap tool though, If I remember correctly its about 80 bucks. And the other question is do they have one on hand?

hth,
mi99z71
Now that sounds like what I'm looking for. It is only the first 2 threads that are boogered. If you start on the inside and back it out, that would keep the shavings from getting in. Of course NAPA isn't open Sundays around here.
Thanks
 
mi99z71 said:
or if you pull head off, then you could use Heli-coil spark plug repair kit. It allows repair of damaged threads, and allows you to still use correct (OEM) heat range plug.

This is possible, but..... Heli-Coil is the last ditch idea.... very weak and prone to failure
 
it chases (cleans up threads) not cuts new ones, so there are any shavings then normally they get pulled out. but it doesn't cut new ones, just mearly moves them outta the way so that you can get clean threads once again.
 
Joeface said:
Now that sounds like what I'm looking for. It is only the first 2 threads that are boogered. If you start on the inside and back it out, that would keep the shavings from getting in. Of course NAPA isn't open Sundays around here.
Thanks

It sounds like something from AMWAY or ROMCO

it's a mickey mouse repair but it might work

good luck!
 
mi99z71 said:
you could go to a NAPA store and get what they call a "back tap thread chaser". It allow you to start from the inside (where the threads are most likely ok still) and chase the threads that way. As you turn it out, it cleans up threads. Not a cheap tool though, If I remember correctly its about 80 bucks. And the other question is do they have one on hand?

hth,
mi99z71


good point. here is an example of a good one...


Snap-On


40421.JPG



i was just on my friends Snap-On truck Friday. i am sure he can get this in a few days. he may even have it on the truck already.
 
have the truck towed to the dealer. see what they say. if it's too much try the thread chaser.


JohnBChef said:
Hey coulden't he drive it into the dealer? It's a V8 missing one cylinder won't incapacitate the truck. It should run. You'll loose power, and the check engine light will come on. But when the computer detects that there is no spark in that cylinder it will shut off the gas, and trigger the light. Or you could unplug the wire above the cylinder for the injector. Might save you a tow bill.

My $ .02
JB


i have seen an '03 tahoe drive for about 2-3 weeks on six cylinders. i drove it once myself. it got some bad gas pumped into it. took out two plugs and coils. my buddy was out of town when it happened. his wife drove it like there was nothing wrong with it. drove like a oig until she got it to the dealer for repair weeks later. believe it, or not, her insurance company covered it!! yup. they will cover your vehicle in the event something like that happens.

anyway. what i guess i am trying to say is he could possibly drive it to the dealer. i would get it towed myself. like i said... i saw a 5.3 do it minus two cylinders for at least 2 weeks with no other ill affects to the motor. i just would not do it if i did not have to.

me being mechanically inclined (not tooting my own horn here either) i would try the thread chaser first.
 
For Next Time, Some Anti-Seize on the threads of the plugs will help your cause of Installing and Removal the next time.

ALSO NEVER EVER change your plugs if the motor is HOT. We have aluminum threads as everyone else has stated and when you remove the plugs hot, As the Heads cool, you will have a rough time installing the new ones and could Damage the threads.

JW
 
JW said:
...Some Anti-Seize on the threads of the plugs...

JW


good point. i use this on everything that is exposed to heat, or water. and of course things that are exposed to both. makes removal so much easier.
 
JW said:
For Next Time, Some Anti-Seize on the threads of the plugs will help your cause of Installing and Removal the next time.

ALSO NEVER EVER change your plugs if the motor is HOT. We have aluminum threads as everyone else has stated and when you remove the plugs hot, As the Heads cool, you will have a rough time installing the new ones and could Damage the threads.

JW

Thanks JW. Note to self: Never remove plugs when engine is Hot.
 
I found the tool at a NAPA about 20 miles from here, I just need to wait for the wife to get home from church so I can go fetch it. I'll keep ya'll posted :cautious:
BTW the engine was cold ;) I work on steam heated machinery during the week and have the burns to prove it, last thing I want to do is work on something hot at home ;D
 
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