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Install experts needed!

idocpilk

Charter Member
Full Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2002
Messages
457
Getting ready for an install with a HU, amp, components, sub. My big concern is running the power wire (4 guage) from the battery to under the rear seat. Is there a 'best' way to go. I would love to go under the truck to a point under the seat that would keep from going through the firewall and under the carpet. Any ideas? Is there a firewall location that is easy? Any other words of advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
I ran a much smaller wire through an existing hole that a wire to the throttle passed through. Not sure how hard it would be to get a 4 guage wire through there.
 
I drilled a hole through the firewall, I got a 4gau, 8 gau, and 2 10 gau in it. Its recomended you dont run wires under the vehicle. Just drill a hole and put in a grommet.
 
If you look just above the gas pedal, there should be a hole with a rubber plug in it. In my truck it was not in use. I sliced it open and used it to run all my wires. Also, don't run any wire under the carpet, run it under the door sills and around to the rear just in front of the midgate.

If you drill a hole under the truck and then later get any water in the cab, your dealer will try to blame the problem on you for drilling through the floor.
 
As you stand outside the truck and look in at the firewall, just to the right of the brake booster you will notice a couple of small dimples. Now look at the firewall from the inside just to hte left of the brake pedal (you may need to pull back an oval shaped piece of rubber that is pre cut) you will notice the same dimple--drill your hole right there. Drill slowly and stop as soon as you have pierced the firewall just make sure you are absolutely clear of drilling into anything. Once you have verified clear, drill your hole (1/2 inch or a little larger depending upon the jacket on your 4 guage). Then run the power wire down the driver's side of the vehicle to the rear and under the appropriate seat. Taking out the rear seat bolts can help this process immensely!! Make sure to run your signal wires along the passenger side of the truck to aviod noise.
 
(y)Man...that is what I love about this club. People in the know who are willing to help. This is going to save me a tremendous amount of concern and trial and error. I really don't trust most of the local installers due to past experiences. I usually end up re-doing most of it anyway. Cutting into a new $35K truck had me nervous. Thanks guys! Now, any trick to getting new speaker wires into the doors? I am leaving the stock wiring alone and bypassing the OE HU. If I leave it alone...say relocate to the glove box, will I retain all my functions without the module(s)? Thanks again.
BTW...while I have your attention...anyone have any recommendations on amps? I am looking at either a 3 channel for fronts and a sub or a 5 channel for the front, rear and subs. I don't want to use more than one amp. I have looked at Memphis Belle, DEI, Autotek, PPI, a few others that slip my feeble mind. I am running CDT comps up front and maybe in the rear (might just leave the OE in the rear but my kids want the tunes back there too). Trying to sort out all the sub solutions posted on the site...midgate use is secondary as I have yet to change it out in 18 mos of use. ;)
 
Don't think the oem hu will fit in the glove box but you are thinking correctly. Make it easy and use the bypass module. If you have an amp under the center console, tap into the wires there for at least the door mids, and, assuming you are running the tweeters in the stock locations, you don't need to run any wires into the doors at all. DEI, PPI, ADS, Zapco, Kicker, and JL are all worthy of a look for amps. ADS has a killer new power plate PH30.2 that can be configured as 75 x 4 and 150 x 1. Just depends on your budget. Check out the "midgate subs" we did, the pics should still be there a few weeks back.
 
idocpilk,
I highly recommend that you do not just run the wire through the bare metal edges of the hole you drill. Use one of the following 2 grommets (like mentioned by "The Dude"). If you have a Phoenix Gold distributor near you - you should be able to get as good or better price as Parts Express.

4 Gauge to 2/0 Gauge - http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&User_ID=15064552&St=2604&St2=-76156108&St3=-79469686&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=6302&DID=7
9 gauge to 4 gauge - (smaller hole to drill) -http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&User_ID=15064552&St=2604&St2=-76156108&St3=-79469686&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=6303&DID=7

Hope it helps - follow the directions that Kodiakz gave you - but use a grommet so you don't short our your system or get water in the hole.

If you live in the Denver Area I have one of each of these, a right angle Air Drill and the right hole saws and would be more than happy to help.

Hope it helps,
 
yea get grommets, I dont have any :-[ but I haven't had any problems yet either. Be safe. not sorrry
 
Instead of running new wires into each door, it is much easier to run the speaker wires from the amp to behind the radio, and catch the factory wires that go to the doors. This will make the install alot easier because you wont be pulling door panels off. Just my 2 cents.
 
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