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Light Bars Electrical

bludrgn2

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Joined
Feb 7, 2005
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359
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USA/Asia
Thinking of mounting 26-20" light bar behind grill. Used Light Bar(no hardware or brackets). Is it a must to add hardware kit or is there a way to tie into existing fog lights- wiring. Since they turn off the high beams, wanted more light for rural areas! If NOT then what do I need for it to work/turn on when push fog light button? If it is not a good idea, any suggestions? Thanks and Enjoy the Holidays!

Light Bar Sticker:
voltage DC 10-30v,
max power 120 volts,
ingress protection Ip67,
colour Temp 6000-6500k


 

Vaeagleav

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I am not an electrical guru but I wouldn't tie in a light bar to the existing fog light circuit. I would guess it would overload it and burn something out.
I would probably run a separate circuit with it's own fuse and switch. Another concern is what is legal in your state, in some you can't add off-road lights unless they are covered and off when on the highway. Only used when actually off-road. Other states may allow if they shut off when high beams are off etc. or some variant so you may want to check with state police or inspection stations?
 

redheadedrod

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Use a relay to power your light bars regardless of where you get the switching power from.

If you want to use your fog lights, your brights or a separate switch the method is the same. You will want to use a 12volt automotive relay. If you have it mounted external you will want to make sure it is as weather proof as possible.

You have 2 sides to the relay. The coil, and the switched side. The switched side you have a +12 feed of sufficient size to run your lights to the common and run a wire from the NO lead (Normally open) to power your lights. For the ground on your lights just run to anywhere on the frame. You can easily find other ground locations and add your wire to one of those.

The coil needs to have +12 connected to one side and Neg to the other side. Doesn't matter which side.
If running to a switch the normal way to do it is to put constant +12 to one side of the coil and run the ground to your switch. The switch then can have one side going to a ground near it.  You can put a fuse on the coil to prevent it from being fried but I generally just tie the positive side to the same wire that is going to the switched common side. Very short run and doesn't really need a fuse. If you ground the coil it won't harm it.
If running to a power source such as a light you need to ground one side of the coil to the frame and run the +12 side to whatever power source you are powering from.  You will want to fuse at the power source to prevent damage to the relay if the wire gets chafed and shorted. I generally use a half amp fast burn fuse but you may find this is not small enough. The coil actually uses very little power. I have never had a wire short out but its not impossible. So you want to have a fuse to prevent your wire from burning up and from blowing out the fuse to the light source you are tied to.
 

bludrgn2

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Feb 7, 2005
Messages
359
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USA/Asia
redheadedrod said:
Use a relay to power your light bars regardless of where you get the switching power from.

If you want to use your fog lights, your brights or a separate switch the method is the same. You will want to use a 12volt automotive relay. If you have it mounted external you will want to make sure it is as weather proof as possible.

You have 2 sides to the relay. The coil, and the switched side. The switched side you have a +12 feed of sufficient size to run your lights to the common and run a wire from the NO lead (Normally open) to power your lights. For the ground on your lights just run to anywhere on the frame. You can easily find other ground locations and add your wire to one of those.

The coil needs to have +12 connected to one side and Neg to the other side. Doesn't matter which side.
If running to a switch the normal way to do it is to put constant +12 to one side of the coil and run the ground to your switch. The switch then can have one side going to a ground near it.  You can put a fuse on the coil to prevent it from being fried but I generally just tie the positive side to the same wire that is going to the switched common side. Very short run and doesn't really need a fuse. If you ground the coil it won't harm it.
If running to a power source such as a light you need to ground one side of the coil to the frame and run the +12 side to whatever power source you are powering from.  You will want to fuse at the power source to prevent damage to the relay if the wire gets chafed and shorted. I generally use a half amp fast burn fuse but you may find this is not small enough. The coil actually uses very little power. I have never had a wire short out but its not impossible. So you want to have a fuse to prevent your wire from burning up and from blowing out the fuse to the light source you are tied to.

Thanks, I agree wire it separately the correct way. I'll put separate switch...

So here we go...Been a awhile since I did any projects on my avy.
I am ONLY installing until I can buy a wiring harness for the light bar. Yep, pretty dirty and need to clean.
This rough install so far...And I tested the light to battery...WOW! EXACTLY what I need for the hills and dirt roads...
 

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bludrgn2

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Feb 7, 2005
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I didn't snap the grill back in place ...only set it as close without snapping in place.
I plan on painting the grey grill since it's off.
Might as well give it a makeover!

Do you think chrome spray paint from can will look good???

As you can see it got dark on me, perfect timing lol

This was surprisingly pretty darn easy and just went with the flow using
as you can see galvanize brackets. No issues easy! Paint brackets black tomorrow.
And the light bar is shorter than I thought... bracket holes 23 1/2"
How about that bright azz light BAR!!!



 

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bludrgn2

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What you think, still need to touch up and clean up a little. The Paint is Metallic Aluminium that bonds to plastic!
 

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bludrgn2

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Feb 7, 2005
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This is with only the lite bar ON...all other lites off!
It sits far enough back NOT to shoot light out the sides much...more so in front
which is perfect for rural dirt roads...:B:
 

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