Looking For An AMP? Read This First....

[carrerarod]

A popular question asked here is "What kind of amp should I get?" or "What's the difference between a Class A & Class D amplifier". I came across a really good article that I felt would be beneficial to all starting out with A/V stuff....Enjoy!
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The difference between a class AB amp and a class D amp is in the biasing of the transistor and the power supply. A class D amp will run cooler because it uses PWM. A class AB amp keeps the rail voltages high all the time and the transistor constantly sees this voltage and must dissipate heat, even at idle. A class AB amplifier will almost always provide better quality sound- at the cost of heat and continuous power requirements. Class D amps provide lots of power with muvch less heat. Class D amps (I believe) were first installed in home theater amps- specifically the Sunfire True Subwoofer.

Amplifier Classes

 

[02-Z66]

i just went through this different class of amps at the audio store where i purchased my audio equipment. i purchased a 2 ohm sub. i was told that a class D amp would run this application much cooler than a class AB amp. so i got a class D JBL 150.1 amp. it was used to power a 200 watt woofer.
when everything was hooked-up i pumped the woofer and it would bottom out. if i played it low it sounded okay. then i read a post that stated that it would be a good idea to run say, 400 watts to a 200 watt speaker. or somewhere there about. so i purchased a 600 watt amp. this one was a Bazooka 600 watt. it sounded really good. but, it got really hot, and shut done after about 45 minutes of play. so i got another amp. a 600 watt 600.1 JBL. i hooked it up; sounded good for awhile. on the way to Baltimore i smelled something like an electrical burn. soon i concluded it was the amp. easy assumption when the speaker failed to play.
i was told by the audio specialist that where i spliced into the wiring harness before the amp gave me no or very low power. the low level line adapter turn this no or low signal lower. thus, sending it to the amp as low as it possibly be. making the amp work harder. this caused it to heat up, and shut off. now i have a aftermarket HU. i can use the RCA jacks on the HU he said. i think i will stick with 4 ohm applications for now on.

 

[Babar]

This is my first post since I joined the forum yesterday. I just got my Avalanche on the 28th and this forum was the best one I saw and keeps looking better. Anyway...

For anyone looking to put some serious power into their system I'll let you know that I am very happy with my two Zapco amps. I go to Street Noyz and if anyone in San Diego wants to go there, ask for Skip and tell him that Babar sent you. He works on cars for many celebrities and sport stars and is very qualified. He recommends, if you want to spend the cash, Zapco has the best quality amp and just above that (but much higher in cost) is McIntosh.

I love my Zapcos though. Plus the name is cool.

 

[zimmthumps]

02-z66,

Some amps can't handle playing a 2-ohm mono load that long without overheating. Using your HU's RCA's would definitely be a good route to take. Next time you get an amp make sure it will play 2-ohm mono.

Babar,
Yeah, Zapco makes some very high quality amps. Give us the details of your system.
Come on... Brag a little!
Got any pics?

 

[carrerarod]

\?He recommends, if you want to spend the cash, Zapco has the best quality amp and just above that (but much higher in cost) is McIntosh.

I love my Zapcos though. ?Plus the name is cool.

Yes Zapco is a good high-end amp. But I would disagree that there is only one amp "McIntosh" above it. I have nothing but bad experience with McIntosh amps. The only they seem to do well for me is empty my wallet. Add A/D/S and Memphis to the list of tier 1 amps...

One thing i really do like about Zapco is the form factor...