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Metal Rail Dust Rust Spots overspray contaminates in paint

lewdog123

lewdog123

SM 2003
Full Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2003
Messages
196
Location
Campbell, CA
I have a Black 2002 AV which I got about a month ago. I am just noticing some weird marks on my car. Looks like my AV got sandblasted or sumpin. These appear on the windows, roof, hood. You can't really notice it from afar. When you look up close it looks like dust, but when you can't wipe it off. They seem like small white glitter on my AV, but it's also on the winsheild and all windows...I haven't checked the rear window yet.
I live in San Fransisco area and have only taken my AV in the snow twice. It puzzles me and I can't think of how this has happened. Does anyone have this problem??
 
Sounds like white line paint, I think that may have some sort of glitter stuff in it to reflect brighter in the headlights.
Had this happen to me once with the yellow line paint on an explorer - never could get it off.
 
Sounds like overspray from some painting...

Use a BODY CLAY BAR and some lubricant ?(Car shampoo and water mixture in spray bottle) ?this will remove the overspray from the paint and glass.....Will not work too well on the cladding since it has a texture....

For the cladding I would try a tar remover to see how it works......remember to soak it if you try it....

Good Luck.....

PS follow up with a Qucik detailer and then your favorite wax or sealant.
 
It could be like over spray, you know like paint and chemicals in the air that have gathered on the truck. Or maybe tree sap, but that should come off with a good washing....

-Digital X-
 
lol ygmn, i think we both replied to this topic at the same time..... with the same thought.... :( but looks like you got me by a few seconds.

-Digital X-
 
I don't think it's the white line paint that Tunahunter mentioned cuz it's on the windows. It does sound like overspray...or chemicals in the air (which I'm prolly breathing!!! :C:). Anyways...I'll try the Clay Bar stuff and see what happens. It's really really bugging me cuz this happened on my last car too. I'm gonna also check other cars in my parking lot here at work. I hope this stuff comes off...I'll try it Saturday...
Getting my Magnaflow 14579 with 12x4 inch tip installed tomorrow...AHHH YEAH!!!
ps...will follow up after clay bar...thanks guys.
 
Lewdog said:
I don't think it's the white line paint that Tunahunter mentioned cuz it's on the windows. It does sound like overspray...or chemicals in the air (which I'm prolly breathing!!! :C:). Anyways...I'll try the Clay Bar stuff and see what happens. It's really really bugging me cuz this happened on my last car too. I'm gonna also check other cars in my parking lot here at work. I hope this stuff comes off...I'll try it Saturday...
Getting my Magnaflow 14579 with 12x4 inch tip installed tomorrow...AHHH YEAH!!!
ps...will follow up after clay bar...thanks guys.
Click to expand...

I am curious as to why you think that because it is not on the windows it could no be white line paint overspray?
It does definetly sound like overspray or chemical fallout of somekind. Try the clay bar or a small amount of rubbing compound to lightly remove the spots from the glass first before trying the paint as glass is more forgiving - you might even try a single edge razor blade on the glass.
 
If their is spray painting within a mile and the air is right you can get overspray.......

Mothers, meguiars, and clay magic are brands of clay you should be able to buy from a local auto parts store.....Follow directions...this is what clay was invented for....

Use plenty of lube....move clay back and forth front to back........and examine after a few passes... should take like 30-60 mins to do entire truck........

Remember to fold and knead clay often......DO NOT drop CLAY.....if you do throw it away and buy more....

Need more help send me a PM...
 
Lewdog said:
Getting my Magnaflow 14579 with 12x4 inch tip installed tomorrow...AHHH YEAH!!!
Click to expand...

Hey lewdog,

Size does make a difference.... ;)

Let us know how you like the the MF.
 
So after work I stopped by Krangen Auto Parts and picked up Maguires Clay Bar kit. It come with the clay bar, some detail spray and a small thing of carnuba wax. I sprayed the detail stuff on the leading edge of the hood and rubbed the clay bar on it. And sure enough the marks went away. Cool!! My roomate and I initially though they were small paint chips cuz we couldn't rub it off. This clay stuff really works and I'll be spending my saturday morning on my whole truck. Now I just gots to figure out where this "over spray" stuff comes from...I'm thinking some where near my work.

Also got my magnaflow installed this morning. I went with the 14589 instead of the 14579. Along with it came a 12x4" SS tip. It sounds great...you can't tell MF is there during idle. If you're just cruisin along the MF lets out a deeper sound than the stock muffler. Punch it and it really growls. Can't really tell if there is any performance improvement yet though.
 
Steve from Zaino calls it Rail dust.

check out Zainobros.com for more detail.

You just need to take a day and clay bar it good then wax.

I Zaino'd mine last weekend (with clay bar too). It's the best shine I've ever had.

If you need Zaino do a search on Pasztor and you should find steve's info.

 
Morning All! First off, I have been coming to this wonderful site for about a year now and have gained a wealth of priceless information! While I do not have an Av I do have a 2002 Z71 Tahoe - Summit White w/ 9000 miles on it. Since these trucks share many of the same features and many of the CAFCNA members have the same intrests as me this site has helped me out immensly! I have tried reading Tahoe forums but they are just plain boring!

So, now I have finally decided to see if anyone can offer me some guidance in the issue of Rail Dust...

I gave the truck a good washing the other weekend and noticed little rust spots about 1 per every square inch. These spots are all over, even on the painted plastic. I immediately took into the dealer and they told me it was most likely the fact that I lived in an industrial intense area, (let me tell you I live in Dayton OH and it is not really what i consider industrial intense), and that all new vehicles have them, the spots just show up more on the white ones. He went on to say that GM would fix the problem as soon as I could drop the truck off. BUT here is the kicker, he said they were only responsible to fix it ONCE and after that if I wanted it fixed again I would have to fight with GM because it was no longer the dealers responsibility. This made me mad for obvious reasons! I then asked him about Rail Dust and he skirted the issue. I am certain it is rail dust and from what I hear it can be almost impossible to get rid of. My cousin just went through 6 months of arbitration for rail dust on a 2001 White Olds Silouhette, that GM eventually bought back.

So, I just thought I would get some expert advice that may help this issue pass with less pain!

Thanks in advance for your thoughts...

~Matt
 
Ok, I'll admit it, I do not know what "rail dust" is! Any hints?
 
Put hands in plastic baggy and rub on clean paint...feel bumps then you need to clay paint....

Paint will remove the rail dust and other paint contaminates.....

These contaminates will come back often depending on where you live as they are in the air and settle on your paint.

Try a search on this topic as it has been discussed before...
 
Rail Dust occurs when the Truck rolls off the line and is loaded immediately onto railroad cars. They then begin their voyages to their destinations, but since they were loaded so fast, and this really is not that common, the clear coat has not had time to dry properly or evenly. When in transit the RR wheels are creating dust from contact with the tracks and the iron dust sticks to the clearcoat. Eventually, in this case after a long winter, the dust begins to rust and little orange dots begin to appear.
 
Ohhh, glad I don't have that! On a white Av it would be awful! The other deal with the plastic bag, I have tried and it does have a few little "grits" to it but not a lot yet. I have had my AV for a little over a year but am retired and it is parked in the garage onst of the time NOT out in those lots where the contaminates are.
 
bekind said:
Rail Dust occurs when the Truck rolls off the line and is loaded immediately onto railroad cars. ?They then begin their voyages to their destinations, but since they were loaded so fast, and this really is not that common, the clear coat has not had time to dry properly or evenly. ?When in transit the RR wheels are creating dust from contact with the tracks and the iron dust sticks to the clearcoat. ?Eventually, in this case after a long winter, the dust begins to rust and little orange dots begin to appear. ?
Click to expand...


The paint is cured in the Factory Ovens.....

Rail dust is the metal dust from trains driving by and also your brake rotors.....this is in the air and unavoidable.....It sticks to the paint because it is sharp.....and gets rubbed in when people wash or dust car......

2 ways to remove...body shop clay or chemical methods such as AUTOINT ABC wash........

NOw industrial fallout can look the same depending on your local.....the stuff is small particles that are sharp and stick to the paint...all cars and trucks have it....check with the plastic baggy method....I have to clay my truck once a year......it happens......

White happens to show it the worse .....sorry.....

DEALERships have TSB top remove raildust ujsing either clay magic or the AUTOINT method of chemically...they only have to do it once.......this will remove the rail dust from transport and everything else up to that point....after that industrial fallout will occur and that is not their responisibility...

Need more info...check

www.autopia.org and search for rail dust and industrial fallout.....pages of info will apear......I am a mod there as well....

 
OR send me a PM ........for more info on detailing...
 
The clay bar is the route I will go, but from what I hear, once the dust has gotten into the clear coat, you can never remove it completely. Also, after the dealer userd the clay on my cousins new van for the 6th time the clear coat began to flake off, exposing the paint. I have used the clay in the past and it worked nicely. I am just concerned about this problem reoccuring and the decrease of resale value. I expect that after the third time I take it in they will offer to repaint but that is not an option.
 
The clay pulls the contaminate out by shear action...it grabs it and pulls it out...now the clear coat has a microscopic hole in it...this is where your favorite wax or polymer sealant come into play for protection....IT may take a few passes with the clay to remove it all......go slow and constantly lube the paint and knead the clay.....

The contaminate did not go all the way through the clear so do not worry.....clear coats fail when they get too thin.....take more than 3 mils off and the clear coat may fail within a year....

Clay does not remove clear coat...it is non abrasive.......it is like using silly putty on pully the comics when you were a kid......

Good luck and do not worry
 
Contaminates will happen and only way to prevent themk is by a car cover.......

Next time by a metallic color vehicle as the tend to hide swirls, conatminates and other paint defects better.... ;D
 
Wonderful, I really appreciate your advice ygmn! I will probably give it a shot this weekend. Any brands of clay I should try or stay away from?
 
Body shop clay is made by 2-3 companies and relabeled for all........

CLay Magic owns the patent and well theirs is pretty good...Mothers is cheap and locally available.....

 
This is a posting from several mounths ago i looked under the door weather striping and found rust spots from rail dust called the dealer and it was taken care of right away under warrenty, no questions. ;D ;D ;D
 
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