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My "Knight Rider" Project 2003 Avalanche

Ok, so this past week I rewired the stereo amplifier wires.. I also painted the speaker grills on the rear doors. They look SO Much better. I painted them black which matches the truck a little better. Think I like them black... Not sure how to paint the front yet. The BOSE part doesn't look like it is a sticker so I have to be creative with it.

The kicker speakers are way more sensative than the stock BOSE speakers...

Took my 6 channel amp (2x100, 4x35) and bridged the two lower channels (makes 2x70) to power up the speakers.
This gives me 100watts on each front and 70 on each rear. The subs are powered off the back channels and running 250 per side. Only one sub is currently hooked up because I think the second one is blown. Still kicks pretty well with only 1 10" though.

Having the BOSE amplifier gone really makes a huge difference. The main amplifier I am using is a high quality amp and I have to say, I can't imagine those BOSE speakers had that decent of highs before. I have very little midbass right now...

Still using the under seat box.. Not very fond of it but it is what I have for now...

I have the rear channels turned way down until I can replace the front speakers...

I have a plan for the front speakers now anyhow. I will install the 3 way cross over for the diamond audio speakers I have. I will try installing the 4" and 6" in the door and the tweeters in the A pillars where the factory ones go. If the 6" are blown as I fear they might be I will replace them with the 6" HART sub woofers I have that will give me lots of midbase. With the 4" speakers to fill in the area between the 6" subs and the tweeters it should sound decent.  Just not sure if the front will be balanced with that setup until I try it. May have to put in an eq to adjust the front setup. If I do that then I will likely move the subs to the front channels. I HAVE a PPI 30 channel eq... Nothing like going old school... Since the main amp is old school anyhow...


Probably won't do much more on the truck right away. Still haven't switched the HID's over to the VLED for the fogs yet.

I have to finish out the semester before I do much more on this truck...
Rodney
 
Steering wheel delivered? If PayPal file a complaint before it is to late.
 
Too late for that. Guess will just have to wait and see if the guy ever makes the deal right.

I bought a Nav system for my CTS from a cadillac forums member through ebay and it was beat up. The screen looks great but quite a few broken plugs... Kind of gets me not wanting to buy used parts from someone I can't physically touch the parts from. As long as the Nav system works when I get ready to install it I will be OK but you don't like seeing busted plugs and such on a piece you spent a lot of money for. Luckily I saved probably about $400 if I bought the components separately so I still win if almost everything works...

Rodney

 
Have not posted much here lately...

Only updates I have currently is I am loosing coolant so trying to track down culprit. In another thread I am discussing this issue. Likely will look at picking up a used low mileage 5.3 after the first of the year. Wish I would have had the cash available when Flint 4x4 had his issue because I would have tried to buy the truck from him... Oh well... With 263K miles on the truck I don't think it is smart to throw new heads on without rebuilding the engine. I am better off buying a low mileage used engine and then probably sell off my old engine or scrap it.  Not sure if worth stripping the engine or not. I COULD strip off the heads and rebuilt the motor myself but not sure I want the hassle since I hope to replace the engine in 5 years with something much nicer. I could likely just have this 5.3 Built up as well but a 6.0 built up sounds more attractive.

Been busy with school otherwise. I have a 3 week break now between semesters so will try to catch up on some projects. My console has been sitting out for past 6 months waiting for me to reconfigure the electrical. With the factory amp and sub removed I have lots of room in the console. Need to find SEM paint and repaint the console piece that houses my screen. Once I install the computer I should be able to remove the radio all together but will likely keep it for now and just run the computer off the Aux input on the radio for now.
I have installed Win 10 on the computer and it runs great.
 
Changes expected to the computer system:

The power supply I had died so I replaced with different setup. This will have a remote 12 volt DC-DC convertor to provide a solid 12 volts.

My current power distribution setup is very tight and messy in the console. Since I have ditched the bose sub I will be mounting my interface box into the now modified OEM sub box. Eventually this box may be moved to the radio slot but for now it will reside in the console. When I have finished working out the bugs in the computer I will be able to pull the radio and replace with another video screen.

I need to setup a distribution system that allows the many fuses I have to be more accessible and the actual distribution setup needs to be changed. I used a terminal strip that was hard to configure. May use a slightly different setup. Need to pay a visit to the local electronics supply store.

When finished I will be using Driveline as my frontend initially, This unit will have GPS built into it and I will be using an external antennae mounted to the roof. It will also have the ability to run a TPMS, backup sensors, ODBII, Constant internet (using an old Android Rooted handset as the data source), Wifi with roof mounted antennae. Currently running an i5 quad core processor, onboard video, 16 gig of Ram and 250gig SSD. 

Electrical upgrades - I already have a secondary battery and will add a higher output alternator.

May pull the dash next summer and replace the heater core and AC exchanger. If I do that I will be installing some additional electronics and maybe moving the alarm module that is currently wire tied to the steering console.
 
Last planned updates not all ready mentioned will be to the stereo system.

I already installed Kicker speakers in the rear doors. I am using my 6 channel Audio Art amplifier with the 4 lower wattage channels bridged together for 2x120 watts and the 2 higher wattage channels are running the kickers in the rears. I dialed down all of the gains to protect the speakers and using this 20 year old amp for the 4 channels. It has worked like a dream so far. Front speakers are still the factory speakers at the moment. Getting lots of sound output from all of the speakers. The front speakers are lacking and will be replaced. the tweeters haven't worked in over a year so have been unplugged. Surprised the factory front door speakers are holding up to the much higher power of this amplifier.

Front speakers will be my Diamond Audio 3 way speaker setup. Plan to mount the crossover under the dash pad on either side near the tweeters and run new wire to the door speakers. The 4 inch will be mounted above the OEM 6" speaker and I will be installing my damaged 6" diamond audio speakers into the OEM location. I plan to run the speakers until they fail. No point in tossing them if they still will run. I have a set of HART subwoofer 6" I will replace them with if the Diamond Audio speakers self destruct.  The cross over should work fine with the HART subwoofer and with the 4" speakers should make the system sound nice and be able to handle the 120 watts fine.

For subs I am currently running my HART 10" subs in under seat box but only one speaker seems to be working. Using a 2x250 watt amplifier with them even with 1 sub running and the amplifier all the way down it still is significantly louder than the factory sub was.
Planning to modify a midgate to fit subs into. Just not sure if I want to go with 2 or 4 10" subs. I may mount 2 and see what I get from those. I will use my Audio Art amplifiers which bridged put out close to 400 watts per amplifier to 1 channel. Will likely pick up some JL Audio dual VC 10" speakers. Saw some nice shallow mount ones at a shop near me and pricing was close to what I can get online.

The amplifiers will go in the currently under-utilized saddle bags. I plan to make use of the over wheel space for the amplifiers. They will just fit. I will make an access for them then weather proof the mounts. The plan is to pipe in air from the interior to them which will then be discharged into the larger compartment of the saddle bags and an out of the way vent will allow the air to be discharged into the bed. If I go with 4 subs I may have to mount two of the amplifiers elsewhere or pretty much totally loose the storage compartments. Likely will just go with 2 subs.
 
 
Probably should add too that the "extra electronics" I plan to add will be security related and allow me to communicate with the truck through my phone. Going to attempt to reverse engineer my "Drone" interface so I can talk directly to the truck. May trash that idea and just piggy back another computer in the truck that will connect over the internet interface and talk to the truck. Not sure yet. But I plan to add cameras to my truck both in the interior, front, rear and sides. The interior cameras will be for security while the exterior cameras will be for event recording and for things such as backing up and whatever.

I could add as many as 4 computer modules to the truck other than the PC. As I research the databus I may end up communicating between computers over the bus.

Rodney
 
I don't have a clue what Citizens/Ally Ins. asked for on my wrecked truck.

Best bet would be to get any GMT800 AV as cheap as possible, remove everything from the frame. Use that frame serial number to title it, take everything from my truck and set it on the donor frame. I'd rustoleum the frame first, my truck was rust proofed. You'd only need a right front cladded fender, a plastic skin for right side step and some right front axle hardware. I think almost everything else was like new.
The driver's seat bottom bolster had a hole worn in it and the armrest was cracking. The driver's heated seat needed a new element for the bottom or back, maybe both. A few of the Bose head control buttons were worn. It had 55,000 miles and still had original shocks, probably ride better if those were replaced. Swap the dashboard VINs so frame and body match. Call it whatever year the frame was, it would really be an '04 built Dec. '03 in disguise.
 
Currently waiting on funds and good weather to replace the cracked heads on my truck. I have the total cost down to about $500 for parts but have to wait until I get my taxes back at this point. Going to college part time and paying out of pocket.

As far as the electronics...

I am trying to figure out how to fit the JW Speaker LED projectors I have into a set of headlight housings. At this point I believe I will be getting rid of the chromed reflector and building my own front plate for it. Looking at ways to make the lights adjustable and make everything look nice.

With the colder weather I am looking at getting the center console put back together too. I JUST received some terminal blocks to help with the wiring. Also need to wire up the new power supply to my computer and test it out. I am running windows 10 on that computer.

Due to some interesting things someone else is doing I am considering installing a second computer inside a double din box and replace my radio with it. The unit in question is similar in cost and size to a Raspberry Pi.

With my school schedule and working full time I am not sure how much time I can devote to the truck right now. We will see...

I am also considering getting the computer I mention and figure out how to install it in the over head console. It is a 7 inch touch screen so it could be interesting.

Rodney
 
So current updates... Parts are ordered and on their way. Assuming head job will go as planned I should have the truck drivable this weekend.

As to electronics.. After I get the truck drivable again I will start putting the electronics back together. I bought some new components to make the installation hopefully easier. I work full time while also going to school part time. Since I live in Michigan and don't have a garage to work in the electronics are on hold until the weather is warmer and I have more time. This semester is done end of April and no planned classes this summer so I will be trying to get this truck back together and everything running this summer. Since I am paying tuition out of pocket I am very limited in my upgrades other than what I already have on hand.

While waiting for warmer temps I may start putting my custom headlights together. I have to modify the JW Speaker projector tabs and mounting system. When done I should be able to adjust the headlights but have to pull the housings to do so. I could probably fabricate a mounting plate to use the factory adjustment but doesn't seem viable at this time.

Rodney
 
So update... I mentioned in another thread that I dropped off my truck with a GM Mechanic about 3 weeks ago and told him to take his time. So hopefully will be getting the truck back shortly with the new heads installed.

Also thought I would mention I am waiting to get a developers kit for this unit:

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1029808658/macchina-the-ultimate-tool-for-taking-control-of-y/community

Can't wait to start messing with my truck with this sucker. Should not have the limitations of the ELM or the Scantool modules.

Rodney
 
redheadedrod said:
So update... I mentioned in another thread that I dropped off my truck with a GM Mechanic about 3 weeks ago and told him to take his time. So hopefully will be getting the truck back shortly with the new heads installed.

Also thought I would mention I am waiting to get a developers kit for this unit:

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1029808658/macchina-the-ultimate-tool-for-taking-control-of-y/community

Can't wait to start messing with my truck with this sucker. Should not have the limitations of the ELM or the Scantool modules.

Rodney

Any idea when the full launch might be? I'd love to get my hands on one of those babies!  >:D
 
Not sure. Think more like June or so. Looks like I may be working on getting the drivers working for the older GM vehicles... So should be fun.

The units coming out now should be able to talk to newer vehicles.

If you REALLY want to talk to newer vehicles there are some other modules available.

I am currently trying to get this unit working with my CTS...

Won't be as elegant but you can get a two port unit and it will bolt right onto a Raspberry Pi. Should just work... I am dealing with their customer support right now to get mine working.

When I get the developer unit I will have a number of units to connect to my vehicles.

Scantool ODBII-USB
Scantool Chip (Hard wired into truck)
pican2 (Only 1 canbus port)
CarBerry (2 Canbus and 2 SWLAN/GMLAN ports)
The developer version of the new M2 as posted
Probably the release version of the M2 when it is available.

So one way or another I can connect... Note the Scantool and the M2 are the only units that will connect to older than 2006 GM's.
 
redheadedrod said:
Also thought I would mention I am waiting to get a developers kit for this unit:
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1029808658/macchina-the-ultimate-tool-for-taking-control-of-y/community
Can't wait to start messing with my truck with this sucker. Should not have the limitations of the ELM or the Scantool modules.

Seems like a sweet concept, especially for GM vehicles if you're willing to do the legwork. I can't see it really taking off due to the overall laziness of the general public and the already widely available Cobb Accessport products and stock upgrade tunes and level of customization and support already available for Nissan, Porsche, BMW, Ford, Mazda, Mitsu, Subaru and VW.
 
It is intended to provide a generic tool to help those wishing to "hack" vehicles to use a common tool. Won't be affected by any of the specialized systems out there. The purpose of this tool is to use generic open sourced software to be able to link to your vehicle. It should work with any vehicle since 2008 and most of them prior. GM switched to the industry mandated CANBUS network for most vehicles that I am aware of in 2006.

Will it be used by the specialized customizations? Only if the people writing those pieces decide to support it. Will it work with generic CAN utils? and other security related software such as Metasploit? Most definitely.

Rodney
 
Got my truck back last night. She runs much better than she has in a while. Mechanic told me the oil that came out was very thick so i will be running it today for about 100 miles then changing it again and see how it goes.

Will continue to change the oil at low intervals until the oil comes out looking normal. Should be good then for quite a while hopefully.

Busy with school but hopefully will get a chance to wire up my PC and get it into the truck after some testing.


Rodney
 
As mentioned elsewhere I am about 500 miles into the new heads and no issues so far.

Semester is almost completed now and I will be trying to button up my truck's computer integration.

I also just received my developer beta hardware for the M2 interface. This is an Arduino Due based ODBII device used to communicate with variety of ODBII protocols. Will do much more than an ELM based dongle. Only issue is the j1850VPW protocol drivers are not complete for this unit. I have volunteered to build out the drivers in it. And will begin to build or modify a utility to work with it.

Should be a fun project. It will slow down this truck project initially but will allow me to do much more than I ever could otherwise. I will be able to integrate cellular so I can dump my "Drone" setup on my alarm and build my own open source solution that will allow complete control over my truck through my phone.

Integrate an accelerometer and GPS into the arduino and I could have a multi function Alarm easily...

Especially since this unit has 6 12 volt I/O connections. And some other cool stuff.


 
Updates: M2 - Still only works with Canbus currently. I bought access to a 2001 s10 blazer before it went to the scrap yard and took a bunch of modules from it to make a test station. This truck has the same protocol as my pre-2006 truck which will allow me to develop the J1850 protocol.  Haven't seen much progress otherwise. I MAY try getting the SWCAN driver up and going first to understand how the system works. The guy currently working on that stuff is real busy reverse engineering Teslas. My '09 CTS has both the Canbus and SWCAN so I can test out either. Note that 2006 and newer Avalanches have the same setup as my CTS so once it works with SWCAN the 2006+ owners will be able to reverse engineer anything they want to.

The M2 does support ANY XBEE module including the Cellular unit but drivers have to be made to handle them.

Still have to wire the blazer stuff to a board and such...

Currently working on rewiring my truck however. I pulled the dash all apart, the PC has been updated and over the next week or so I will be marking the wiring with what it does, updating the wiring to handle the new stuff I got and hopefully will be installing the PC back into my truck before the month is over.

Truck is still running great but I am concerned because I still seem to be loosing coolant but hopefully just have air pockets still working out because the loss of coolant seems to have greatly reduced. Going to try replacing the cap on the over flow tank since it appears to be a pressure cap. At this point the cap might be bad.

I also need to paint the plastic around the screen as well. Not sure why but the guy that worked on the screen for me used a navy blue to paint it when it was more of a charcoal to begin with. Need to find the right interior shade of paint and go from there.

I really should replace the dash pad and the passenger side A pillar.
 
Ordered an A pillar (Non bose) and dash pad to replace my broken ones. Should be picking them up this week. Hoping the non-bose A pillar will be usable in place of a bose pillar. Otherwise will be looking elsewhere for one.

Also have the computer running with the new power supply. And have identified which wires go where again. Will be labeling the wires so I don't forget..

This week I will be rounding up all of my "upgrade" components and testing them with this computer. The next step will be fitting them into the console and other locations. During this I will also be upgrading my front stage as well.

I picked up subwoofers and a component set from friends of mine that closed up shop. They closed up shop because they didn't care to deal with people that bought their items online and then expected them to install it for next to free. Then blame them when the cheap stuff they bought broke later down the road. That and similar issues made them loose their passion so they closed up shop. Sorry to see them go but does mean I will be installing a pair of 12" alpines into the mid gate this summer. If I have the time I will be building amplifiers into the saddle bags this summer so the whole shebang will be pretty hidden from the interior of the truck.

Should be an interesting summer. Truck still seems to be loosing some coolant although seems to be less and less so hopefully that is a sign that the new heads are doing their job and no other issues.

Rodney
 
Update:
Currently truck is sitting with all of the "dash skin" off while I rewire the truck getting ready to install the computer (Finally).
Have PAC Adapter to add 2 Aux inputs into my stereo. Should work much better than what I was doing.

Will be attempting to install my 3 way Diamond Audio speaker setup. This setup is like 15 years old and was $1500 when purchased. Hopefully still works...  The 6" drivers have a couple slices in the surround but the 4" and tweet look in decent shape. Putting the 4" and 6" in the door. The Crossovers will be stuck in the dash. If the 6" speakers are unusable I have some old HART 6" subwoofers I will install in their place. The 4" speakers should be more than sufficient to carry the tones between the subwoofer and the tweeter. So the crossover will likely be set a little lower if I have to use the HART speakers.  Not a bad thing since this will let me drop the cross over on the subs too.

Leaving the Kicker speakers in rear doors. They can be toned down if necessary and already are somewhat due to otherwise over playing the current stock speakers.

Using an Audio Art Professional series 6 channel amplifier to run the front speakers. This amplifier if I remember correctly is something like 2x80 + 4x60. I have the 4 channels bridged to 2 channels running front speakers so front speakers should be at 120 watts and rear speakers at 80 watts.

I will be using two Audio Art 100MS amplifiers bridged to run the sub woofers. This amplifier was a cheater amp and while rated at 2x50 would do 2x75 when engine running, does like 275 when bridged with engine off and well over 300 when engine running bridged. I will be running a pair of 12 inch Alpine subs I bought when some old friends of mine closed up their audio shop.

Subwoofer box will be built into a spare factory midgate I have. I hope to make the midgate fully functional. Depending on how I have to have the speakers lined up the installation will look almost stock from the inside and just look like a 12" deep box stuck to the back of the midgate. I hope to have the amplifiers built into this as well to keep all of the interior free of audio components. My initial design is one that is about 40" wide by 24" tall and about 12" deep. This will house the amplifiers on top of the speaker compartment with a removable access cover for the amplifiers. MAY have the speakers install from the rear as well to save depth for the speaker cone to travel forward.  

As to the wiring... I had to recatogorize the wiring since I lost the writeup I did before. I have a label maker so will label the wires accordingly.

Will be running an Audio cable from the computer to the aux box to send sound to the stereo over the aux port. (The radio will eventually be removed but until then I will be using the XM-Radio "port" to pass audio to the radio from the computer)

I have an "all in one" box that has ODB, TPMS, Backup sensors, GPS and digital and analog inputs. This will be connected to the computer to perform some functions. Not sure yet what the digital/analog I/O stuff will be used for but it is there if I need it.  

The computer is working well and I will be wiring the fuse panel, distribution panels and the all in one box inside the old factory subwoofer box. The computer fits well where the factory amplifier normally goes. The 10" screen was installed where the lighters and two pockets normally reside at the front of the console. Still looking for a good place to put the secondary aux plug and the switch. Will likely install the secondary aux plug in the console and the switch will probably go on the dash somewhere. Also will be installing a couple USB ports into the dash panel as well likely below the small cubby on the right of the radio.

Hope to have everything operational for the national GTG.

Including the M2...
Note the M2 will likely not get wired into my truck since I have a scantool based ODBII unit already hard wired into the truck and I likely won't need a high performance tool for the truck at this time. If the Scantool tool isn't fast enough then I may reconsider. The M2 will be used mostly for researching other vehicles and probably probing my CTS.

I also will be installing a new antenna that looks close to the stock one that on-star equipped trucks have. This antenna has GPS, Cellular and Wifi built into it. Since my wifi has two antennas I will be using this to replace one of those connections and will use for the GPS too. Considering getting a cellular booster and if I do get one I will be able to use the cellular antenna for that. Basically would make my truck a repeater for any cell phones close to me unless I lock it down to just devices I have.  Will be helpful if I go with a Mifi or similar full time data.


Rodney
 
So before I move onto anything else I have been looking at how much a pain in the butt the heater core is to replace...

So hoping the heater core is fine... Putting other projects on hold until I figure out where the coolant is leaking from. I MAY work on the console since that can go into the truck as one piece. No point in doing a bunch of changes in the dash if I end up having to remove it all to fix the doggone heater core...

So far have replaced the water pump, thermostat, cap, main 2 water hoses.

Also replaced prone to cracking 706 casting heads due to standing coolant in both heads when removed the valve covers to inspect.

No noticeable leaks but losing about half gallon every 500 or so miles.  By no noticeable leaks, if left running on the driveway you don't see anything dripping and no puddle.

Next to try will be the heater hoses. Apparently the quick connect fittings are very prone to breakage so hoping replacing those and the hoses will take care of it.
If that doesn't do it then going to try bypassing the heater core and see if the leak still happens. But looking at some information online really seems to point to those connections becoming brittle. And if a small crack maybe it mainly leaks when running under load but not while idling?

I suspect since I have moved those hoses around quite a bit while trouble shooting the A/C last year and hooking up the secondary battery that maybe I cracked one of these connectors. Would think when the heads were replaced the line would break all together but who knows. Would explain why the oil didn't look bad when changed if the major leak was elsewhere and only had a minor crack in the head. Will be interesting how this turns out. I would do a pressure test but don't have the equipment to do and time is tight to drop it off..  Not to mention that replacing the heater core hoses and connectors would likely be cheaper than an hour of shop time assuming that is the issue.. If not then it really only leaves the over flow bottle, the radiator and the heater core. If the radiator ends up being the bad item I would look at a better radiator with the future blown 6.0 in mind.

 
Well passenger side floor is clean... Heater core quick connects are not leaking...

Did find sign of coolant on the front of the engine cover that has the knock sensors mounted to. So I am suspecting one of the lines going to the TB or the air bleed pipes for the heads.

Going to just replace both the heater hoses and connectors, the coolant tank to the radiator, the radiator to tb and air bleed to tb hose. Still looking for the hard lines pipe that goes between the heads.

I have (hopefully) attached a copy of the pipe I am  looking for. Item #2 in the attached photo. It is very rusted so unless it costs a bunch I will just plan to replace the whole thing and any associated gaskets to insure it is not leaking any more.

Does anyone have the part number for this item? Will try at the dealer but otherwise would like to replace this unit. I know it has gaskets for it but due to the apparent condition of the piping I would just rather replace it all. No need in it blowing in the future because I didn't replace it.

Rodney
 

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As mentioned in another thread I ended up finding that the piece is discontinued for the "steam vent". Trickflow makes some parts but they were not very good. Would NOT suggest them.

The helicoil pulled out easily when I tried to trim what was sticking up. I ordered Big-sert for 6mmx1 to fix this thread. The other thread that looked bad still held the bolt fine. I have replaced all of the coolant lines.

I installed the billet chevy symbol I have had for a while. Looks good.

Also installed an Aux input module for my radio with one running to the computer and the other will be plugged into a socket that will have both audio and USB. The USB will go to the computer.

Have installed crossover for the new front speakers. Stuck the crossovers to ductwork inside the dash so they are out of the way and won't rattle. Integrated into the factory wiring. I verified that the wiring at the tweeter was in series with the door speakers. So installing the crossover at the tweeter connection made sense. I prewired the tweeters to replace the ones in the A-Pillar and will be installing the new speakers into the doors. Using Memphis brand speakers for the front doors. Bought them from some friends who closed up shop. Will see how well they sound.

Dash is still pulled all apart as I finish up the base for this install. Will be installing the Digital capable radio into the dash which will interface into the PC. Hope to have the dash put back together this week. Will be installing the new GPS/Cell/WiFI antennae before installing the dash back. 

Keeping the stock radio for now until I verify the computer works well. I have a secondary screen that can replace the radio.

Rodney
 
This coolant line issue is becoming quite the PITA...

Will keep information in this thread though... :

http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php/topic,151605.0.html

Got some more wiring stuff in so I should be able to install my HD Radio and feed to the computer...  It goes inline with the standard radio so was interesting to come up with the proper fittings. Once that is mounted and working I will make sure I get the antenna installed then I can start putting dash back together.

Rodney
 
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