Has anyone attempted to mount their front speakers on the fiberglass (or whatever it is) interior door covering speaker cut-out, rather than the cutout in the door itself? I am not convinced that I have a good barrier between the front and rear airspaces since I have mounted in the door itself. I am running a set of Kicker Resolution 6.5 components at 50W RMS and at moderately high volume with lots of bass I get a horrible cracking sound. Like the cone is flexing. I have even set a high pass filter to them at 80 Hz. I never ahd this problem in my old S-10 when I had a good flat mounting surface that had a definite barrier between the front and rear airspaces. I am thinking of remounting them to the interior door covering in the cutout. I also think some sound is lost from having them recessed so far with my current moutning position. It seems that there HAS to be some wave reflection and cancelation from the door covering cutout that is offset in front of it. Any thoughts on this? Thanks.
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Need help on alternate front speaker mounting
- Thread starter zuhl555
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ygmn
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Mine are mounted to the stock plastic clip in brackets which clips to sheet metal of door...and they were a PIA to snap back in.....so they do not flex that is for sure....
Maybe you have pic of what you have done?
Maybe you have pic of what you have done?
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zuhl555 said:
With a little force, some elbow grease....heheheheh
If you are concerned about wave cancellation, just make sure ( or try to anyway ) that you plug the holes that would allow air to flow from back to front. Typically, there are no issues mounting speakers in the stock locations. What else do you have in your system? What is aftermarket and what is still oem?
Try covering your doorpanels with a sound damping material like Dynamat or Raammat. You will not only help to seal the door more as an enclosure for the speakers to work in, but you'll also help to quiet the interior which effectively acts as increasing power, since your noise floor has decreased and the system can more effectively reproduce music without as much competition.
As for speaker mounting, stay with the sheetmetal of the door's skin. It is sturdy and will help to eliminate unwanted rattles and vibrations caused by a speaker mounted on a flimsy liner.
For a change of pace, you could check out a set of kickpanels for the speakers. You would certainly see a better soundstage and more focused imaging since you've helped reduce the distance differential between the left and right speakers, effectively bringing yourself closer to centerstage, which is the goal of music reproduction afterall. You can check them out at http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/q-logic_q-forms.html. It is a relatively inexpensive upgrade that can make a world of difference if you're a music lover.
Good luck!
Ps.....what is the slope that you have your crossover set at, at the 80hz point? If it is a 12dB slope, you may want to try an 18db or 24dB
As for speaker mounting, stay with the sheetmetal of the door's skin. It is sturdy and will help to eliminate unwanted rattles and vibrations caused by a speaker mounted on a flimsy liner.
For a change of pace, you could check out a set of kickpanels for the speakers. You would certainly see a better soundstage and more focused imaging since you've helped reduce the distance differential between the left and right speakers, effectively bringing yourself closer to centerstage, which is the goal of music reproduction afterall. You can check them out at http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/q-logic_q-forms.html. It is a relatively inexpensive upgrade that can make a world of difference if you're a music lover.
Good luck!
Ps.....what is the slope that you have your crossover set at, at the 80hz point? If it is a 12dB slope, you may want to try an 18db or 24dB
DS,
Do ypu have any pproblems with your Emergency Brakes clearing the enclosures?
Do ypu have any pproblems with your Emergency Brakes clearing the enclosures?
Those are in a Suburban, not that it makes any difference. As far as I know there will be no problem with the enclosures and the E-brake. You could contact the manu, which is Qlogic to find out specifics, I'm sure. As far as I know with other Chevy/GM trucks, there's no problems.
Thanks everyone. I have tried to cover all openings that would allow wave cancellation behind the door panels with duct tape. I know that is kinda half-@$$ but it was sunday and the stereo shops where closed when I put the speakers in. As far as equipment goes, I have an Alpine CDA-9815 mp3 deck. Rear speakers are new Kicker 6.5 coaxes running from deck power at 30 watts RMS. This deck is cool- it actually requires a 10 ga wire straight from the battery for power. Anyway, my front speakers are Kicker Resolution 6.5s. Tehy are not new, but a few years old. they were made the last year before kicker went to the Chrome looking cones. These speakers are powered by a 50 watt RMS Eclipse amp. They are rated for 85 w rms so this should not be too much. I just can't understand what is causing this popping sound. It is LOUD too. Not like the sound from damaged voice coils. I have done that before and that is a more scratchy sound. This is a loud brief pop and the only thing I can attribute it to is cone flex, kinda like from a crappy subwoofer with a thin cone. I guess I should probably just get on ebay and get me some new speakers that are heavier duty.