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Problems with the midgate

Newbie45

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I'm super new but love my AV. We just purchased a 2011. The locking knob for holding the glass on the left side of the midgate is broken. From what I have seen we made need to replace the whole midgate. Can I just replace the lock? If I replace the midgate what do I need to look for?
 

EXT4ME

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Those knobs can be replaced, but finding a replacement part is almost impossible.

Removing a good knob from a midgate is possible, but use care not to break your replacement part.

They tend to be somewhat fragile.

You will have to use a pick hook and some careful maneuvering to get at the spring clip that holds the knob to the shaft on the midgate.

Don't try to just yank on the knob to get it to come loose.

There was a thread on this forum a few months ago where some members were talking about producing the parts with a 3D printer.

I'm not sure how far that project got.

I searched high and low across the Internet and found only two from a selling page of some dealer.

It might appear that I snagged the last two new knobs on the planet.

The complete midgates can be found in the savage market, but it's sad that that may now be the only way.

Maybe you can grab a deal on eBay.

The midgates were the same for all model years and also between the Avalanches and Escaladed EXTs.

So, if you find one, it will fit your truck.
 

ygmn

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Someone on here 3d prints new ones...
check threads n this section
 

Raekal

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Is this the one we're talking about?


Shouldn't be a difficult print, I can see about popping a couple out tonight.
 

Raekal

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They turned out half decent, though I printed these particular ones on a newly assembled printer and there are some cosmetic defects. She needs some tuning. My prusa has been busy pumping out replacement erector set parts of all things for our refurbished sets. :)

These are something I can just toss on a spare printer and have done in a day. So if someone needs a set, I really don't mind sending them out for the cost of materials and shipping. If they're desired in other colors, we can work something out and I can even add a splash of color in and make the arrow a contrasting color if you'd like to wait an extra day or two.

Though it should be noted that these are kind of experimental. I know a few people have tried using them, but I can't make any guarantees. Id like to fit them to my own truck, but if I'm running the risk of snapping my OEM's in the process I think I'd rather avoid that if possible. I can however redesign these if needed, but it didn't seem like anyone was having an issue with them.
 

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frito

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If you got the plans from the site posted here, they do work. My daughter printed the driver side and it does fine. This design doesn't use the spring and backing plate of OEM. I saved mine as a precaution.

And I agree, if it ain't broke don't fix it. As long as your originals are still working, don't try to remove.
 

Newbie45

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They turned out half decent, though I printed these particular ones on a newly assembled printer and there are some cosmetic defects. She needs some tuning. My prusa has been busy pumping out replacement erector set parts of all things for our refurbished sets. :)

These are something I can just toss on a spare printer and have done in a day. So if someone needs a set, I really don't mind sending them out for the cost of materials and shipping. If they're desired in other colors, we can work something out and I can even add a splash of color in and make the arrow a contrasting color if you'd like to wait an extra day or two.

Though it should be noted that these are kind of experimental. I know a few people have tried using them, but I can't make any guarantees. Id like to fit them to my own truck, but if I'm running the risk of snapping my OEM's in the process I think I'd rather avoid that if possible. I can however redesign these if needed, but it didn't seem like anyone was having an issue with them.
Those are awesome. I could try those. Let me know a price. My zip code is 72761.
 

Raekal

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If you got the plans from the site posted here, they do work. My daughter printed the driver side and it does fine. This design doesn't use the spring and backing plate of OEM. I saved mine as a precaution.

And I agree, if it ain't broke don't fix it. As long as your originals are still working, don't try to remove.
Yeah, that's kinda what I was getting at, mine aren't broken, but I don't particularly like shipping prints before testing them. In this case, i think ill make an exception. If the cad worked fine before, these should still be great. I don't want to snap my own for science.


Those are awesome. I could try those. Let me know a price. My zip code is 72761.
A quick guesstimate would be $7.95 for a pair. Which is $1 each for the material cost and $4.95 for a 5 oz first class package. If you have a preferred flavor of snail mail, let me know otherwise. I over estimated a little bit, so the final cost should be lower.

I would like to re-print a pair for you for a better finish. There are some defects in the front face inside the depressions that didn't form correctly and they look kinda unprofessional. I should just have to tweak the setup a little to fix that. it just means a delay of a day or two before I can ship the first set out.If you're not in a rush, i can also do some color testing to see how a different color/ combination would look.
 

Newbie45

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If you got the plans from the site posted here, they do work. My daughter printed the driver side and it does fine. This design doesn't use the spring and backing plate of OEM. I saved mine as a precaution.

And I agree, if it ain't broke don't fix it. As long as your originals are still working, don't try to remove.
So how do you keep the knob on without the pin?
 

Raekal

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So how do you keep the knob on without the pin?
It uses the pin and clip, but omits the old backing plate and spring. Frankly, i dont mess with my rear window enough to know why it was designed the way it was. (even then i dont understand why the mold was reinforced around the dish, but not the center) This printed version gets rid of the complexity in favor of something simple that reinforces the entire area.

If you scroll to the bottom of this thread, code3 shows this pretty nicely. You just have to take the existing clip and push it into place inside the knob. Then line it up and press it onto the pin and it will stay in place.

 
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frito

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So how do you keep the knob on without the pin?
Like @Raekal mentioned, you do still need the pin to secure it. You just don't need the spring and backing plate with this design.

It uses the pin and clip, but omits the old backing plate and spring. Frankly, i dont mess with my rear window enough to know why it was designed the way it was. (even then i dont understand why the mold was reinforced around the dish, but not the center) This printed version gets rid of the complexity in favor of something simple that reinforces the entire area.

If you scroll to the bottom of this thread, code3 shows this pretty nicely. You just have to take the existing clip and push it into place inside the knob. Then line it up and press it onto the pin and it will stay in place.

I think the idea of the backing plate and spring is to keep it taught when locked in place. Push, twist and release type of thing.
 

Raekal

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I figured I may as well post these here. I was experimenting with a dual tone grey for better contrast. It leaves a ring around the part but I think it helps with contrast. Obviously this can be done with any combo

The grey one turned out rather poor print wise, but the solid black ones are perfectly fine at this point. I might wind up redesigning these a little at some point for better dual color printing.

I'd love to find some better color matching plastics, but it's incredibly difficult to do so in any sensible cost in mind. Beiges and darker grey's exist, but those experiments would have to wait until I needed new spools.
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