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re-designed pcv

gwh1bass

Full Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2004
Messages
70
Location
MI
Wondered how may folks have replaced the pcv with the redesigned, small oriface one, no moving parts, part #12572717, as opposed to using the original style with the check valve.

What about the excess oil thru PCV affecting A/F ratio and the catalytic converter?

See http://www.mightyautoparts.com/pdf/articles/tt122.pdf
 

 
in early 2002 they had the original type which caused blue smoke on startup since oil would drain into intake area...

then they redesigned and issued TSB to replace to this new style to prevent this oil burn at start up and all is well in avy world..

so this really only applies to 2002 and then early 2002 like built prior to Aug 2001
 
So I should get and install the new PVC seeing how they have quit using it since '03.
 
WILDFIRE are you currently using the small oriface PCV on your '02?

Local auto parts store are selling the same spring loaded PCV.
 
I got my truck may of 01 so does this faulty PCV apply to me? If im not mistaken they replace your PCV valve at 100k correct so im hoping they put the new type on since i have 152k now. Id hate to know i had been cheated all that extra gas i wasted and money on this little part. :E: Is there anyway to check for the new type?
 
not gonna waste gas with PCV...

if it smokes on start up ya need new type.. if no smoke... forget it IMO
 
I was wondering the same about blue smoke. Synthetic doesn't burn blue smoke but I do smell oil out of the exhaust at start up and also loose about a quart of oil around 1,500 miles do you guys think its a PCV issue?
 
Who says synthetic does not burn blue?

Ever light some up?
 
I went to Advance Auto, and swapped out my PCV valve.  I think the one they gave me had the larger orifice and was weighted (rattled).

Does anyone know a P/N that they have for the correct one for an aftermarket?  Seems as though when you go to these stores they ask your make/model, and you get what their computer says, but might not always be correct.
 
ggates said:
I went to Advance Auto, and swapped out my PCV valve.? I think the one they gave me had the larger orifice and was weighted (rattled).

Does anyone know a P/N that they have for the correct one for an aftermarket?? Seems as though when you go to these stores they ask your make/model, and you get what their computer says, but might not always be correct.

GM P/N 12572717
 
Yep, we spent about 20 minutes going through this at Autozone.  Finally what I did was a mixture of things. 

The '02 P/N at AutoZone was something like 1199.  This has the weight with the variable orifice.  The '03 P/N in the book on AZ's shelf says something like 796 (which wasn't even on the shelf).  BUT the website said 1009 is the right PCV for an '03.

I inspected the 1009, it has the small orifice, doesn't rattle, and looked to be the same housing shape and size as the 1199.  Since the website agreed with the 1009 P/N, I'm going with that.

SO, my conclusion is that if you go to AZ, get 1009 to get the fixed orifice PCV.  It probably maps the the GM P/N.

***
Just as a history that brought me to where I am (in case it helps anyone else). 
***

Problems I have been experiencing (found in some other threads).
-Hard starting (when the truck is semi-warm, not cold or very recently driven, but after around 3-4 hours).  I suspect that it isn't really a fuel pressure bleed issue, since it fires right up in the morning
-Rough idling - last night I was stopped at a light and thought she was going to stall on me!
-Additionally, last night during a long trip my check engine oil level light came on.  I was down about a quart.  This hasn't happend since my truck had around 15k.

For the last problem, I know that the PCV valve could be suspect.  I have the older large-orifice valve in there now, as I just changed it myself at 100k miles.  I knew there was a different P/N, but I went with the Autozone database.

For the other two, I figure it is fuel delivery related.  I ruled out the Fuel Pressure Regulator (ended up changing it anyway, but didn't find any fuel in the vacuum line).

Now, there is a TSB out there about the throttle body getting gummed up due to the PCV issue.  This seems to apply to 99-02 GMs.  I do have a drive-by-wire 02, but I figure a sticking throttle plate could occur under any premise.  This TSB is actually referenced at the might link above under tech tip 118.  My theory might be that the throttle plate is either sticking, or just not functioning optimally during a warmer start

So I'm going to try PCV + throttle body cleaner and we'll see what happens.  I know I could probably benefit from a fuel induction cleaner (the kind with the machine that BG sells, or a motorvac).  These actually flush the entire intake, not just the injectors like fuel additives.  We'll see when I inspect the intake how bad it really is.
 
Even a new PCV valve can cause excessive oil loss.  My 1997 Chevrolet 350 5.7L with 257,000 miles used a quart every 1,200 miles for years, even with new PCV valves.  I replaced the OEM PCV with a FIXED ORIFICE PCV and oil use IMMEDIATELY dropped to zero in 1,200 miles.  It increased the oil pressure by 10% at the same time.  They are available for about $6 at any parts store.  There is no rattle because there is no marble inside and the bottom opening on the new part is about half the diameter. If your PCV rattles, replace it.
 
I need to do the PCV valve change but have found for $5.00 I bought some Bardahl no smoke treatment. It stopped my oil usage completely. I drove from New Orleans to Coarsegold without burning a drop or having any smoke.
However on a fresh oil change it does not work until you get about 500 miles on. I drove from Coarsegold, Ca to Wyoming and back 2200 miles. When I stopped for gas in Fernley, I had a little smoke and used 1/2 qaurts oil. But the rest of the trip I had no issues and I was driving 80-100 mph between Idaho and Wyoming. Anybody who has ever driven Weber canyon,Utah knows it has awesome banking. And at 100 I am only hitting 2500rpm.
 
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