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replacing oil pressure sensor question?

Evolved76

New Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2005
Messages
5
Location
Mt.Albert, Ontario. Canada
:help:
does anyone have a procedure that I can refer to for changing out my oil pressure sensor located in between the floorboard/firewall and the top of the transmission..do i have to do any major removals just to change the pressure switch? :B:
 
i just had the same problem with my avalanche 2 weeks ago my friend is a machenic and he would not even attempt to fix it told me to take it back to dealers to get it done so i did and it cost me $350.00 $80.00 for part alone
 
Evolved76 said:
:help:
does anyone have a procedure that I can refer to for changing out my oil pressure sensor located in between the floorboard/firewall and the top of the transmission..do i have to do any major removals just to change the pressure switch? :B:

Why are you replacing it ???

What kind of problems are you having, looks like you have a 1500 correct
 
This should help you  :D
 

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I have been told that the sensor needs to be changed because I have plenty of oil, but the pressure guage isn't reading anything. . they did a diagnostic on the cluster and it checked out o. k. . . , which in turn only left one other possibilty. . the sensor.


MichiganSilver03 said:
Why are you replacing it ???

What kind of problems are you having, looks like you have a 1500 correct
 
OK, I have an oil pressure gage pegged at 80 PSI while engine is off.  Think the sensor is bad.  From looking at this and trying to get to the sensor, it does not appear to be something easy to replace just due to the location at the far back of the engine.

Anyone else have any hints about how to make this replacement while keeping at least some of the skin on my arm?
 
WILDFIRE said:
could be a bad stepper motor in the cluster also

Yeah, I had the cluster replaced about 2 years ago when the speedo was acting up.  I know the speedo would drop to 0 psi while I was driving, the oil pressure gage now does reset at 0 and moves around when you turn the key on/off - now just sits on 80 psi either engine on or off.

Maybe cluster or maybe sending unit?  I went out and unplugged the sensor and the dash told me I had 0 psi oil pressure.  I started it up, the gage jumped a little bit down like while the gages are resetting and then again said there was 0 PSI.  Plugged in again and when I started the cluster said 80 PSI once again.

Maybe one of the part stores will have the tool mentioned to loan or a deep well socket will work.  Not going to be easy however.
 
:wave: Info for any interested party:

I was able to replace the oil pessure sending unit.  Not that big of a job, but a bit awkward  Removal of the fuel rail stop bracket, one bolt, greatly simplifies the job.  The stop bracket is a bit tedious  to remove and reinstall.  I couldn't get my hand and wrench into the area without removing the stop bracket.

Get yourself a sending unit socket at Advance, Autozone or any parts house.  Two and one-half hours were required, including replacing the stop bracket.

The connector is a bit difficult to remove from the sending unit.

A ratcheting combination wrench is very helpful for removal and installation of the stop bracket.

Future replacements should be about an hour, including the stop bracket.:B:
 
I have an oil pressure reading issue.

Key on - pegs to 80.
Key off - goes to 0.
Key run - stays on 80.

The instrument cluster was replaced 3 years ago.

Before I saw this post, I ordered a set of stepper motors the other day...they arent here yet, but now I am guessing I need an oil sensor???

I found a pic of when I had my intake off to replace the intake gasket - I guess this is the sensor? Wow, wish I had the luxury of having the intake off!




 
Well you guys were no help!  :p


I went ahead and bought some crap-ass Borg-Warner oil pressure switch from Oreilley and that fixed the problem.

Hint to the next guy - my 1/2" drive 1-1/16" socket's wall was too wide. It hit the edge of the block. I had to spend $10 and get a "Lisle" brand "1-1/16" GM Oil Pressure Switch Socket" from Oreilley Auto Part# 13250 - looks like Twilight Zone (I try to avoid like the AIDS) also has them under the "OEM" brand. All I had to do was take the engines top shroud cover off by removing the 8mm bolt - after that, it was all by feel baby - just like in the dark. Pull out on the tab, and wiggle and pull the electrical connector up. I used a wobble and an extension and it came out pretty easy.

Seeing my picture above made the job a lot easier!

-Pay it forward

 
This is not a 1+ hr job. This is a 15-min job.

Drink beer 5 mins.

Remove top shroud. Place hand to sensor and remove connector. Set socket (your lug nut socket is too wide - gotta buy from Oreilley or AZ) atop  sensor. Place wobble knuckle + extension + ratchet to socket. Twist. Reverse procedure. 5 mins.

Drink glory beer.  5 mins.
 
brianelton said:
This is not a 1+ hr job. This is a 15-min job.

Drink beer 5 mins.

Remove top shroud. Place hand to sensor and remove connector. Set socket (your lug nut socket is too wide - gotta buy from Oreilley or AZ) atop  sensor. Place wobble knuckle + extension + ratchet to socket. Twist. Reverse procedure. 5 mins.

Drink glory beer.  5 mins.

I agree.  Although I spent an hour figuring out and wresting, squeezing around to locate sensor, etc.  But once I figured out where it was it was an easy job.
 
Just wanted to thank those that have posted about this especially the picture of the sensor location.
I just got finished with mine.  The hardest part was locating the sensor.  Once I knew where it was...the rest was a breeze.  Headed for my celebratory beer now.

Thanks,
Ron
 
This may be a 15 minute job, but not for people with hands the size of mine  :E: although a bodylifted truck might have helped too.

I could lay a finger on it, but that's about it.  The wife, with her smaller hands, was able to get the connector off, finish unscrewing it by hand and pulling out, started the new on in, and re-attached the connector.  I was able to get the special socket on it, and crank the wrench, but that was about it, and I've still got some minor wounds on the backs of my hands and one finger from trying to do what she ended up doing fairly easily.
 
I've done 2, if anybody needs help in SoCal area, I work for a bottle of ??? :cool:

takes about 1/2 hour start to finish. 15 minutes if the motor is cool :beating:
 
I love doing oil senders at work. Pays to remove intake, only take 10 min to do. (y) Kinda a pain to get your hand in there, but with the right tools, its really easy.... unless you drop something back there. Ask me how i know :rolleyes:
 
I want to commend all the guys that gave me these great tips on replacing the oil pressure sensor.

It was a 30 min job, should have been 15, but we didn't have all the tools, manly the swivel joint that attaches to the socket.
Like they say, the special oil pressure socket, the tool racket set up as illustrated by one of the members , a borg warner replacement sensor from oreilly's , the sensor socket, both cost around $50  total, removal of the wire and clip, un bolt, very tight, need the engine warm to, put the new sensor on, and you are good to go.

My gauge was pegged to 80 for several days, then it started to jerk back and forth, a low pressure warning on the blue display above, the shift. I was planning on making a trip to dallas, so this had to be done. This is the second time you all have bailed me out, ( had to change a canister solenoid, 6 months ago. This forum is saving me a ton of money! As long as the engine is running fine, and not overheating, it is just the sensor mis-reading, no worries, will run fine after fix.
 
Thanks for the info. Just did this in about 20 minutes, 10 of which was trying to get my hand un-cramped. This has to be done totally by feel. There is no way to see anything back there, especially with a lifted truck. I didn't unbolt anything except the sensor itself. The socket is a must have, as the sensor is odd shaped and the hole where your extension goes in has a bit of wobble built into it. Well worth the $10.
 
2048ckra said:
Thanks for the info. Just did this in about 20 minutes, 10 of which was trying to get my hand un-cramped. This has to be done totally by feel. There is no way to see anything back there, especially with a lifted truck. I didn't unbolt anything except the sensor itself. The socket is a must have, as the sensor is odd shaped and the hole where your extension goes in has a bit of wobble built into it. Well worth the $10.

Hi there!  If you don't mind me asking, what year is your Avy?  I have a 2007 LTZ and I'm have the same issue with the oil pressure.  At first I noticed that when idle the gauge would dance back and forth between 40 and 60 PSI then late last week it shot up to 80 and stayed there with the engine light on.  I connected my code reader and it gave me code P0521.  This past Monday the gauge started reading 0 PSI, no noise, oil levels are fine and the engine sounds as good as it ever has but now I have code P0523 as well.  I bought the sensor/sender switch, i'm able to get the cable off and get the special socket (from Autozone) on it but I stopped short because I just don't see how i'm going to get the new sensor/sender switch on.  I'm trying to do this without having to take the intake manifold off!  I mean the thing is right there!!  Not trying to drop much $$$ specially when I know I can do this myself.  Anyways, do you have any other tricks that I can try?  Thanks in advance, OP
 
odzmore said:
Hi there!  If you don't mind me asking, what year is your Avy?  I have a 2007 LTZ and I'm have the same issue with the oil pressure.  At first I noticed that when idle the gauge would dance back and forth between 40 and 60 PSI then late last week it shot up to 80 and stayed there with the engine light on.  I connected my code reader and it gave me code P0521.  This past Monday the gauge started reading 0 PSI, no noise, oil levels are fine and the engine sounds as good as it ever has but now I have code P0523 as well.  I bought the sensor/sender switch, i'm able to get the cable off and get the special socket (from Autozone) on it but I stopped short because I just don't see how i'm going to get the new sensor/sender switch on.  I'm trying to do this without having to take the intake manifold off!  I mean the thing is right there!!  Not trying to drop much $$$ specially when I know I can do this myself.  Anyways, do you have any other tricks that I can try?  Thanks in advance, OP

Actually folks, after a good spike of frustration and a chill down period I went at it again and got the sensor swapped in about 15 minutes.  Oil gauge is reading perfect now, I cleared the codes and the engine light is gone!  Feeling accomplished!  This Avalanche Forum has saved me about $600 in the last 8 months.  Thanks for all the good posts!

OP
 
Glad you got it figured out. It is a pain, but like you said, about $50 for sensor and socket, compared to ??? at the dealer... seems like a no brainer.
 
have an 04, Z71 my oil gauge goes all the way to max after i drive for a few hours, then stay there for five or six starts then slow returns to normal. is this a big problem or not can i fix myself?    good tips all will try to do myself let you know 
 
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