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Throttle Stop Mod

XRover

Charter Member
SM 2003
Full Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2002
Messages
1,610
Location
Los Angeles, California
I completed doing the Throttle Stop Mod as well as another free mod called the Throttle Body bypass mod. The bypass mod I did a while ago and probably doesn't do to much in the way of Seat of the pant's performance gains. I will talk about the Throttle Stop Mod on my 5.3 here.


The Throttle Bodies on our trucks as well as older years only open up to 80% at WOT. This means that when you step on the gas all the way, the Throttle will open up 80%. Generally speaking, ?at idle a throttle plate should be closed or nearly closed. At 50% throttle input the throttle plate should be open 50%. At 100% throttle input the throttle plate should be open 100%.

G.M has designed Our Throttle Bodies to open up a maximum of 80%. One thing that I noticed was that when I accelerated with the pedal 2/3 to the floor, I could push the pedal the additional 1/3 and I would feel no more acceleration difference. This is because, at approx. 2/3 throttle pedal travel the throttle plate is opened as far as it can go (Throttle stop is hitting)

The mod performed removes a few millimeters of the stop on the throttle body and allows the throttle plate to open up to near 100%

In order to do this Mod you need an ATAP which is a computer reader or a Digital Volt meter that reads D.C. I used the volt meter method without a problem. Looking at the Throttle Body from the front, there are 2 sensors with wires on the right side. The lower sensor is the Throttle Position Sensor. This sensor has 3 wires. A grey, a Blue and a Black. I stripped back just enough insulation on the Blue and Black wires to get my test probes clipped on. Blue is + and Black is -.

With the ignition key on engine off, I got a .50 voltage reading. At full throttle position I got a 4.30 volt reading. A maximum voltage to acheive is no more then 4.6 volts. Some will say 4.7 but the majority agree that 4.6 is the safety mark. At about 4.8 volts, the sensor will trigger a code.

Now I began to SLOWLY grind back the Throttle Stop on the Throttle body's left side. Grind a little and check voltage at full throttle pedal position. I used a Dremel which is probably the best method for a controlled grind. It took me about 2 hours of light grinding to acheive 4.6 volts and the Throttle Plate is now at near 90 degrees (100%) at WOT.

Do I notice a Difference ?
The short answer is YES !!
Now when I reach 2/3 throttle and I push the pedal the rest of the way, I do get more response from the engine.

 
Excellent work ;D great instructions ;D

Can anyone verify that this is true on the 8.1L, the "drive by wire" control may complicate this.
 
I have been dissappointed with the acceleration of the AV since December when I purchased it. I found out this week that I haven't been flooring it. The pedal has a spring on it between the pedal and the arm. I had only been getting the bottom edge of the pedal to the floor. Now when I lift my heel off of the floor and use my toes the AV really moves. I plan on looking at this spring this weekend and possibly removing it. Anyone else noticed this spring?
 
Nice catch XRover.., I A-Tapped mine., getting 80.1 percent.., ill have to do a little grinding.., every little bit does help..., think ill stay on the conservative side also., try to get it to 87%.....
 
XRover said:
I completed doing the Throttle Stop Mod
Just when I thought I had voided all aspects of my warranty.... I never even thought about grinding on the throttle body!!! >:D >:D >:D
Nice job Xrover. I'll have to put this one on my list for one of those "cool" summer evenings.

helmet
 
Nice simple mod with good potential - I may look into this on the weekend . . . BUT . . .

The unanswered question is WHY is the stock TB setup to open only to 80%?

Does anyone have any insight? Inquiring minds . . . .
 
Two theories - take your pick:

1. GM can shave a little off next year and claim a HP increase - this is very popular with the conspiracy group.

2. GM has set this as part of the drivetrain/engine protection mechanism.

This issue is only applicable to N/A [naturally aspirated] 5.3L engines, less impact on 8.1L due to differences in the intake to the BigBlock in general, and not applicable to forced induction mods. >:D
 
Just use xrovers first post, that link was done by someone else, not even on an Avalanche.
 
archer007kr said:
Will this mod for the 1500s be the same for the 2500s 8.1 L???

Gandolphxx said (4 messages prior to yours)
"This issue is only applicable to N/A [naturally aspirated] 5.3L engines, less impact on 8.1L due to differences in the intake to the BigBlock in general, and not applicable to forced induction mods."

E.F HUTTON stops and listens to Gandolphxx! ;)

 
I looked at my engine and couldn't find the stop you were talking about. My throttle seems to be controlled by a small electric motor on the left side of the throttle barral. I also could only find one sensor on the right side of the barral. Have they changed the way the throttle is set up? Mine is a 5.3L 2002 born 06/02.
 
gandolphxx said:
Two theories - take your pick:

1. GM can shave a little off next year and claim a HP increase - this is very popular with the conspiracy group.

2. GM has set this as part of the drivetrain/engine protection mechanism.

This issue is only applicable to N/A [naturally aspirated] 5.3L engines, less impact on 8.1L due to differences in the intake to the BigBlock in general, and not applicable to forced induction mods. >:D

Grandolphxx,
With your vast knowledge of engines, can you answer this for me?

I was thinking about doing this mod until I ran across a 80mm throttle body that is a perfect fit bolt on. It is the same cableless type throttle body. Would I see more results and less of a chance of voiding my warranty by simply changing out our current throttle body with this new 80mm version?

.01 for your thoughts! :)
 
Wow, I just got done doing this mod .... didn't realize you had to grind away half of the stop. When I was finally done there I had 4.62v and was lucky I had a die grinder (y)
 
Hey BlackAvy,

I'm gonna do this one next I think. What kind of difference if any do you see now when you mash it down? Also, did you take any special precautions to collect the grindings? I'll be using a Dremel w/ a diamond grinding wheel.
 
I went to do this mod as well and found that my truck is drive by wire?

I thought the AVs were still cable driven.

Has anyone beside me and Mikez66 seen this?

Thanks.

GG
 
Wiki said:
Grandolphxx,
? ? With your vast knowledge of engines, can you answer this for me?

? ? I was thinking about doing this mod until I ran across a 80mm throttle body that is a perfect fit bolt on. ?It is the same cableless type throttle body. ?Would I see more results and less of a chance of voiding my warranty by simply changing out our current throttle body with this new 80mm version?

.01 for your thoughts! ?:)
Sorry, I missed this - can't really advise - most of the "throttle" things are not as much gain as they seem - the stop change will help on the 5.3L, but do it VERY carefully - too much is VERY bad.
 
All of the later model 5.3L's have electronic (Fly by wire) Throttle bodies. If you have one of these, evident by the lack of throttle control cables on passenger side of TB, then this mod does not apply to you.

Your TB's are controlled internally.

 
OK XRover... any ideas on exactly how much needs to be shaved off of the stop. I don't have a digital volt meter so I don't want to use the "guess thats enough" theory. If you know what I mean. Or am I better off going to Radio Shack and purchasig a meter?
 
shades said:
OK XRover... any ideas on exactly how much needs to be shaved off of the stop. I don't have a digital volt meter so I don't want to use the "guess thats enough" theory. If you know what I mean. Or am I better off going to Radio Shack and purchasig a meter? ?
WHOA, read his post and references carefully - this is not one of those "take a few swipes off" mods - could be very dangeraous and expensive - get a good meter!

First check if this even applies to your engine.
 
I should really point out that this mod is a fairly advanced mod due to the knowledge that is required to operate and understand a multimeter and what it is telling you. The grinding as tedious as it is, is not the difficult part.

I am not in any way suggesting that everyone do this mod. Really, it won't do much for the part time power mongers (Myself included). It only makes an improvement at WOT. The more performance mods you have, the more you will probably notice a difference.

This is NOT in the same ease of installation category as installing a FIPK kit, Exhaust system, Power Programmer or even a TB Spacer.

I just did it because of my inherent nature to screw with everything I own >:D
 
Does anyone know if the ECU adjusts for air/fuel ratio when the throttle is opened up this way? I would worry that the mixture is running lean if the car is getting the same amount of fuel at WOT and more air is getting in.

I've seen this issue with the newer Subaru turbo cars. The aftermarket intakes that widen the MAF sensor housing diameter lean out the mix and show increase in power at the cost of detonation or CEL messages.

Anyone have a clue?
 
Your answer is 5 posts above yours...here...

http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php?board=106;action=display;threadid=8018;start=msg113655#msg113655

and the answer is NO!
 
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