The Extreme said:
Hey SevenWondersoftheWood,
Just want to chime in; that was an excellent post.
--chazj
Thanks my friend! ?
I was one of the rare "nice" car guys...
after you choose a vehicle, I would pull the invoice and show you and say, make me a reasonable offer and let's get this done so you can go home and enjoy it! ?
A note on BLACK BOOK...
in
REAL dollars, sorry, but "clean" won't happen the vast (VAST!) majority of the time. (They hope to make you think it will... ?

?)
And forget the "adds"... ok, maybe 25% of the dealers might add a little on a VERY clean vehicle that they NEED in inventory. ?
In most cases, they will want to be around "Average" on a 1 or 2 year old vehicle. They will want to be well back of "average" on anything older (except possibly a very nice 4x4, or HIGHLINE Import, depending on where in the country you are.) ?On a domestic CAR, $2k back of "rough" is not uncommon.
Dealers can usually buy domestic CARS* and Mini-vans at auctions for LESS THAN HALF of original retail when they are around 1 to 2 years old, depending on the make & model... some are much worse than others. If ya have one, sell it to a friend or drive it forever! ? (* Not SUVs or trucks... ya know - those little, low to the ground things... "Cars" ?

?)
OK, sorry - getting WAY off the point now...
Point is this: Please do not go in expecting too much! If you expect "the worst" and have a realistic idea of WHAT that REALLY means, you will have a MUCH better chance of leaving there with a smile on your face, driving your New vehicle. ?If you go in thinking that you "should" get NADA trade plus adds, or clean Black Book plus adds, unless they do a really good job of stroking you, you will end up leaving disappointed, angry, sad, etc... and most likely will not have what you went there for.
Be realistic about your trade's ACV*, and realize that they have to (and will) make some money on the deal, and you will have a much better chance of leaving there satisfied! ?
* "Actual Cash Value" (which is also determined, keep in mind, by what amount they would pay at an AUCTION ?for a vehicle similar to yours) ?
OK, enough DANCING -- I am now burning ALL bridges that I had with the Car Business... THIS is what I "should" be doing for a living... ?here is the $1000. Auto-Buying Workshop, presented to CAFCNA members for FREE, cuz, well, I luv ya! ?

?If you happen to live near a "CarMax" (or I think Auto Nation does it too) go there first and tell them you want to sell your vehicle. They will give you a cash offer in writing. ?
Then go to the dealership that has the vehicle you want.
"MAKE THEM" show you the invoice. If they won't, get up and get out! ?

ASK about rebates.
DO NOT mention your trade until after you have agreed on a reasonable price for the one you want to buy.
THEN say, ?"OK, we're almost there - How much will you give me for my ____?"
They will look sick to their stomachs, (cuz at that point, they WILL be) but then you will at least get some idea of what they are REALLY* giving you for it! ? * You probably still won't hear the actual figure, but it will be much closer than if you had told them about the trade in the beginning! ?
Then, if you have a higher offer from CarMax, you can consider if it is worth the extra cash to do 2 transactions instead of one. Keep in mind, in most states, you do not pay sales tax on the value of your trade, which effectively ADDS cash in your pocket on a trade, as compared to selling it yourself.
OK, if anyone made it through this whole post, you are now armed and ready! Let us know how it goes! ?

?
There are a couple of more valuable things I could tell ya, but
#1) I don't want to completely ruin my chances for working in the Car Business again if I would ever be so inclined, and
#2) I have to save some stuff for the CD-rom version that I'm going to sell on eBay!
?... my fingers are tired... ?
Seven ? ?
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