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Transmission Fluid And Filter Change

Summit_NF said:
Thanks TexAVfan, good information, and I followed the earlier link to your description of flush procedure, and learned more about the whole thing. Sounds like taking it somewhere is the best bet - although I've never liked other people working on my cars and trucks.
I haven't been out here in while with the summer rush of vacation and all. The forums and site are looking very good. i'de liike to make some of the houston cruises in the future. my problem withthe past is i'm always tied up.
thanks again.

You are most welcome and we all look forward to seeing you again - you have been MIA for a long time - but I still remember you and I hope you still get my e-mails on updates - you do right? Good to see you at least on the boards.
 
Hey guys,
In response to synthetic transmission fluid being more slippery than regular transmission fluid, it's not. Synthetic fluid is made with the same base oil as regalar transmission fluid. The advantage of synthetic transmission lube is it signifigantly cuts down on the oxidation. When tranmission fluid gets hot it oxidizes or forms a varnish. When a regular PAO fluid gets oxidized from stop and go traffic, hauling, etc.... it forms a varnish on the discs and you will eventually see some slippage. What the synthetic does is keep the oxidation down so the varnish does not form thus keeping the disc cleaner. As it says on the amsoil site, you can compare this to sandpaper. Wet sandpaper works just as well as dry sandpaper. The lubricating aspects of the water on the sandpaper does not affect it's ability to do the job. It's no different with synthetics. Just like rinsing wet sandpaper removes the dust, syntheic fluid works in much the same way. I am planning to change the fluid in mine from the ATF to synthetic and also change the filter this weekend. I will do the full flush instead of just the pan drop and filter. Go to the amsoil site and read for yourself. I think you'll change your minds.
 
Well guys, it looks like a change of plans. I called the guy who's doing my transmission flush and he says his machine can't do the flush and put synthetic back in. He says he uses a cleaner first, then does a flush and then a back flush, refills the trans with a penzoil product transmisson fluid and adds a conditioner to the fluid. He says the conditioner plus the dexron III is really close to syntheic. He believes synthetic is over kill in the transmission but not in the engine. He also says (like I've seen posted earlier by 11h I think) that the filter doesn't need to be changed in the 4L60 transmissions. When the cleaner goes through it, it looks brand new when it's done. I really trust his opinion so I'll try that. Has anyone heard about this penzoil trans fluid and the conditioner? He says with regular maintenance the transmission being flushed each time should keep it trouble free.
 
I helped an Amsoil dealer/friend flush the tranny on my Dakota last year. We did the usual drop pan/change filter. Then we disconnected the tranny line at the top of the radiator. Put a clear hose on the radiator outlet, filled the pan back up and started the engine. We added oil at @ the same rate that it was coming out of the hose. When we hit fresh oil we could see the difference in color. Hooked everything back up topped the tranny off to the correct level and that was it.

I haven't looked to see if there is a drain plug on my AV's tranny, hope so. What we did on th Dakota was use a small pump with a long suction hose, one of those cheapies you attach to a drill, to remove as much as we could from the pan before removing it.
 
The transmission flush is done and man what a difference. :love:$85.00, better shifts, more power, smoother transmission feel, worth every penny.
 
I just did my 50k service and changed my tranny filter. What a pain in the a$$!!!! After trying for several hours to get the T40 bolts out of the shift linkage bracket, I just gave up. There is very little room to work or to get anything up there to get these darn T40 bolts off and they are extremely tight.

As Hernz Av has said earlier in this tread, you cannot get the pan off without the shift linkage bracket being removed. I did manage to pull the filter off and get it out of the pan with the pan just dropped - this is not easy but it can be done. I also managed to get the pan pushed back far enough to get the filter sleeve out and replaced.

In my pan, the magnet was not attached to anything, just sitting in the bottom of the pan, so I just pullled the magnet out and cleaned it off, wiped out the pan and put the magnet back in.

After putting it all back together I put about 3.5 qts to get it to the correct level.
 
Did the trans flush, trans filter, oil change, and fuel filter change today. Man what a difference. I couldn't believe how well the truck ran after pulling it out of the dealership. Just so everyone knows, the service manager told me that the 8.1 does NOT have a PCV valve.

Fireeater

Thanks to everyone who gave advice in this thread. Very happy with the outcome and the comfort of knowing that my truck is being serviced properly.
 
The auto parts store computer states add 5 quarts and warm up for 3 to 5 mins., then check level; add as needed.
 
Hernz Av said:
You will have to remove the shift cable and bracket. The nut for the shift cable is 13MM, then you will have a metal pin that keeps the cable in place, you will also have to push in two tabs to pull the cable out. Here is the hard part that had me cussing up a storm. The shift cable bracket has 2 size T40 torque bolts from the top. The were really tight. I have to use a small breaker bar with 3/8" rachet. The pan will NOT come out untill you remove the bracket. Once you get the pan out you will have oil all over the place. The next hard part is removing the filter sleeve. I used a small flat screwdriver to bend it and then pull it out with some needle nose pliers.

I'm in the middle of a fluid/filter change RIGHT NOW and this is the information I need. Stupid shift cable bracket is driving me batty. You say there's 2 T40 bolts for the bracket? I only feel one with my fingers so far, interesting.

The cable bracket also (mostly) covers 2 pan bolts. I thought I'd get by by gently bending the bracket out of the way and somehow got the bolts removed, but now the pan still won't drop. Guess the cable bracket really does need to be removed, and now you've given me the bit size I need.

Thanks for this post!

*edit* I HAVE to remove the pan, because I have to replace the 1-2 and 2-3 shift solenoids. I'll be wrestling with those T40 bolts for as long as it takes, and it sounds like I can expect to be fighting with them for several hours........what a PITA.
 
I just used a C-clamp squeezing the bracket to the front driveshaft and that gave me the room to pull the pan. I read it on here somewhere  :love:
 
I called my local dealer yesterday, they recommend doing the flush and fill as the only way they change trans. fluid. Their cost is $139.95 plus tax with no appt. needed.
 
RogerT said:
I called my local dealer yesterday, they recommend doing the flush and fill as the only way they change trans. fluid. Their cost is $139.95 plus tax with no appt. needed.

But you still need to do the filter at some point.
 
I just finished a fluid and filter change on my 04 Z66 w/101k on it. Many thanks to those of you who made this job easier! Couple things I noticed that I'd like to add.

1. Remove the cable bracket, it just makes life easier. There are 2 T-40 torx screws that hold it in place, was able to get to both with a 1/4in ratchet and the bit holder. Just position the rachet handle toward the rear of the vehicle. The front part of the cable just pops off the stud and you can then easily move it out of the way.

2. Once you have the fluid drained and the pan loose you won't be able to remove the pan because of the exhaust crossover. You'll need to reach into the front of the pan and pop the filter down into the pan. Once the filter is loose you'll be able to wiggle the pan around and past the crossover pipe. I found it easiest going toward the driver's front tire.

3. Put a small amount of black or red silicone sealant on the pan and install the gasket ensuring the holes all line up. Let this set-up as it will make it easier to install the pan. Lay the new filter in the pan like it came out. Slide the pan and filter back up over the crossover and into place. Reaching throught the front of the pan push the new filter firmly in place. Install the 16 bolts and tighten to 13 ft/lbs.

Hope this helps someone in the future!
 
bassbuff said:
I just finished a fluid and filter change on my 04 Z66 w/101k on it. Many thanks to those of you who made this job easier! Couple things I noticed that I'd like to add.

1. Remove the cable bracket, it just makes life easier. There are 2 T-40 torx screws that hold it in place, was able to get to both with a 1/4in ratchet and the bit holder. Just position the rachet handle toward the rear of the vehicle. The front part of the cable just pops off the stud and you can then easily move it out of the way.

2. Once you have the fluid drained and the pan loose you won't be able to remove the pan because of the exhaust crossover. You'll need to reach into the front of the pan and pop the filter down into the pan. Once the filter is loose you'll be able to wiggle the pan around and past the crossover pipe. I found it easiest going toward the driver's front tire.

3. Put a small amount of black or red silicone sealant on the pan and install the gasket ensuring the holes all line up. Let this set-up as it will make it easier to install the pan. Lay the new filter in the pan like it came out. Slide the pan and filter back up over the crossover and into place. Reaching throught the front of the pan push the new filter firmly in place. Install the 16 bolts and tighten to 13 ft/lbs.

Hope this helps someone in the future!

It should help me!  I've got the pan loose and have been trying to get it out, but the exhaust is obviously in the way.  Hadn't thought about pulling the filter off before removing the pan.

How did you reverse the process?  Could you get the pan back on with the new filter in place?  No exhaust relocation required?
 
That's just it, I simply reversed the process. Lay the new filter in the pan and get it over the crossover. Once it's in position you have enough room to push it up into the new seal.
 
bassbuff said:
That's just it, I simply reversed the process. Lay the new filter in the pan and get it over the crossover. Once it's in position you have enough room to push it up into the new seal.
Outstanding. Thanks!
 
I was able to put the pan on with the filter already installed, maybe I removed  the cross member and forgot.  ???
 
Did my 50,000 filter change today. 2008 Z71. Deep filter.

Started out with a $6 hand pump from Harbor Freight. Ran a hose down the dipstick tube and pumped out 3+ quarts of old fluid.

Once under the truck I could NOT get the shift cable bracket off, so I just changed the filter with the pan hanging down. Actually very easy this way. I left the old filter collar in place.

I wiggled out the old filter. Sopped up the remaining fluid with those heavy duty blue shop paper towels. Reached in and found the magnet. Pulled it out and cleaned it off, put it back.

I removed the old gasket, checked that I had every bit of it and nice clean surfaces with fingers and an inspection mirror. Put the new filter in, "pop"! Checked the alignment by closing the pan and making sure everything lined up properly. Then I wiggled the new gasket gently in place. Go slow, don't rip it. Easy does it. Once you see gasket showing in every bolt hole, button it up and top off the fluid. It was really fast and easy this way. I bet this is how the dealer's shop does it.      

I'll be replacing 3 quarts at a time via the dipstick tube over the next week.

 
This thread saved me a considerable amount of time. Just wished I looked yesterday before I started.  Pumped fluid out with transfer pump. I held the selector bracket back with a vise grip. Dropped the filter in to the pan and removed the pan. Placed filter into transmission and then slid pan into place. Got lucky with the gasket with no adhesive or anything to hold it in place. Adhesive is not recommended anyway.
 
that was a pain, the cable holder bracket i had to pry and bend away to drop the pan, and getting it back in was hard too cause i bumped the gasket off but eventually lined it all up .

the big plus to this is my truck used to shift hard and now it shifts smooth and drives alot different!

filter and some fluid is great to change for keeping it all shifting right!
 
ok i got it all together yesterday and noticed i never put in that collar thing that goes on the end of the filter.

is the bottom of the pan holding the filter up anyway? it was on there snug when i bolted the pan up
 
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