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Yet another DIY midgate box

macalanche

SM 2010
SM 2007
Full Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2006
Messages
360
Location
Leesburg, VA
I've been thinking about and buying supplies to build myself a midgate box. I wanted something that incorporated the rear window holder and I wanted it lay as flat as possible...like almost everyone else who's been looking at sub boxes. So I bought a second midgate to cut up and started listening to shallow subs wherever I could (not many have actually been used, at least that I could find).

I'm a fan of Pioneer and they have the shallowest mounting depth and required less volume for a ported sub, so that's what I'm going with. Before it even starts, I know shallow subs won't hit like a full size sub, it's a concession I'm willing to make for a fully functional midgate.

I decided on the Alpine 1.600, again because of its size and also that it's digital and runs cool so I could put it under plexy and not worry about it.

So I'm about to order the nit-knacks (wires, connectors, plexy, and carpet/vinyl) and thought I should really find out if this is going to suck before I start up the table saw.

Everyone, please take a look and let me know what you think, I've made sure the dimensions are on the images but if you need more just let me know. I?m probably going to build it but I can make tweaks before I begin, if I?m overlooking something. I?ve rendered the back of the box as glass just to see the inner workings.
 

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In my not so professional opinion, that looks great.

my only question is...  if you want it to be as functional as posible, wouldn't it be better if the enclosure was more of a rectangle?  then it wouldn't stick out as far.  I do think the design you have will look better though.
 
grnxnam said:
In my not so professional opinion, that looks great.

my only question is...? if you want it to be as functional as posible, wouldn't it be better if the enclosure was more of a rectangle?? then it wouldn't stick out as far.? I do think the design you have will look better though.

I thought about that and I could make it thinner but it makes the bottom very...well...square, which would make it tougher to slide flat goods in and out. I haven't done the math on internal volume but here's a shot of it squared up, the top needs to be at an angle to allow it to open.
 

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One more, this one would be a fiberglass back and would require some internal bracing but would probably have the least impact. I like the idea of building it as a radius but it would take forever to build, including the time it would take to learn how to fiberglass and the inevitable mistakes.
 

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bandt0913 said:
okay... when I decide what I want to do with mine..I'm looking YOUR way!? :eek:

Thank you but being a graphic artist/designer, this is the easy part for me. We'll see how the pics look once I start to make saw dust :rolleyes:
 
Wow, pretty impressive  :eek: booked marked this thread to follow  :cool:

Sam
 
Nice!!!

Will you be making it 2 chambers or just one large one?
 
Another thing to consider is the spring loaded flap that fills the gap when you have your midgate down.

The outcropping on the back of my JL box causes the flap to sit off of the box a bit when it is in the upright position, making it look less factory.  Also, it tends to get caught when I have the midgate open and go to close it.

Just some minor things to think about.
 
I like your design and at the dimnsion on your first design I would be willing to go with that. I had actually figured on never doing a midgate with subs because I use my bed as a truck, and sometimes, I can't spare a lot of room. I don't need the loudest bass and your design work work well for someone like me ?:yourock:
 
another random thought, and please don't think I'm knocking your ideas, just throwing things out there...

do you have or do you plan on getting a bedslide?  if so, the bottom of the box would need to be raised a lil to allow for it to mount.

As for the ideas and the thought you've put in this, I think I like the first one.

 
Also, size on those ports will matter... someone smarter than me should be able to tell you what size to use (or not to use them at all).
 
vertabatt said:
Another thing to consider is the spring loaded flap that fills the gap when you have your midgate down.

The outcropping on the back of my JL box causes the flap to sit off of the box a bit when it is in the upright position, making it look less factory.? Also, it tends to get caught when I have the midgate open and go to close it.

Just some minor things to think about.

The spring loaded flappy thing is coming out, I can live with that gap.

another random thought, and please don't think I'm knocking your ideas, just throwing things out there...
No worries, this is exactly what I was hoping for...more eyes.

do you have or do you plan on getting a bedslide?? if so, the bottom of the box would need to be raised a lil to allow for it to mount.

No plans for one but I would be interested in the height demensions at the midgate, if anyone has that.

Also, size on those ports will matter... someone smarter than me should be able to tell you what size to use (or not to use them at all).

Ya, I've been looking at that too. I'm scratching my head about a lot of the math but I've been reading a bunch of websites and I'm starting to get it. As far as ports go, if they need to be longer than I can make them...they'll go too. Fortunatly the Pioneer subs will work in the same size box's ported or not.
 
Ok, here are a couple shots of the box I'm leaning toward. I made a few major changes, the big one is my idea about storing the back window.

If you look at the pics of the right side I've built it to slide the glass in the side. This will mean I can build the entire box out of MDF and not cut up a midgate or if I decide to I could just "skin" the front of the box with the interior piece.

I also moved the ports to the top outside. I did this so I could sink a cap in the center above the amp (not drawn).

I'm a little worried that I'm trying to put 10lbs of sub in a 5lbs box :eek:
 

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Just have to ask.  When you measured for the glass storage, did you take in to consideration how you are going to mount the subs?  If they are mounted on the outside of the box, they will protrude into your glass storage area.

Just wanted to make sure that that space was in your design, before you start cutting.


 
macalanche said:
I'm a little worried that I'm trying to put 10lbs of sub in a 5lbs box :eek:


I think you are going to be surprised.  with that many layers of MDF, I think it is going to weight just a little bit more.  Mine is right about about 60lbs with subs in place.
 
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