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What don't you like about you Avalanche?

bdatlanta said:
I'm like 280. (6'5")

I'm 6'8, 300. I've been climbing around on mine for over 3 years now and they're still mint. No deforming, leaks etc. My friend who is about 6' and 220 both stood on them to watch the race at Pocono last year and Talladaga the year before.
I think you'll be just fine to climb around up there.
 
cobroxatx said:
I've had my '07 LT3 4x4 for a little over a year now, and my only complaints are that my particular purchase didn't have the roof rack or dual batteries.  I solved my roof rack dilemma with a Yakima setup, and since my battery is broken and leaking, I'm going to put in a dual Optima setup (I'm researching the difference between color tops tonight, as I read mention of yellow tops being preferred).  I haven't been online in a while because I spent all summer on the motorcycle.

Might be worthwhile to do some research on the quality of Optima's since they moved production out of the U.S. They aren't as reliable as the previous versions, and other new AGM's like the Sears Platinum seem to have a better track record.
 
Xlr8n said:
Might be worthwhile to do some research on the quality of Optima's since they moved production out of the U.S. They aren't as reliable as the previous versions, and other new AGM's like the Sears Platinum seem to have a better track record.

I've also moved away from Optima.  They aren't what they used to be.  Some quickly googling may shock you to find that Kirkland (Costco) batteries rank as high as anything in overall value.  I think I'm going that direction.
 
Oddessy = Sears Platinum just rebranded.
 
Our Interstate rep told us the average life of a 5 year batter is 3 years. I use Interstate mainly because I pay cost for them.
 
Blackcomb said:
Our Interstate rep told us the average life of a 5 year batter is 3 years. I use Interstate mainly because I pay cost for them.

Sounds a little short, but also depends on where you live.  When I lived up North, I could get 7 or 8 years out of them easily.  When I moved South, it's 5 years and done like clockwork.
 
excessive heat is alot harder on batteries than cold, altho cold is pretty hard on them too. The battery in my 08 is still original. Itll get replaced before snowfall. I couldnt believe it lasted this long. lol
 
I go through batteries well before their warranty is up, did on my jeep too. I think I have put 2 in and had one defective in the 4 years I've had the Tonka truck. Might have something to do with 110? summer days and -27? winter days we get.  :beating:
 
I've been Sailing for more years than I've been driving.

An issue that always jerked us around was how short the battery life was with batteries in the various boats I've sailed/crewed on along the California Coast. Relatively stable temps, less than 20?f water temperature extreme, etc.,.

It turns out that with each each bump of a wave, battery solution would mix around, particles of the battery would drop out and eventually accelerate the life span of the battery. This is a very short description of the issue. One of the reasons Marine Batteries, and typically Deep Cycle designs last so long is they are made of stronger materials & design holding the cells together and allowing for more accumulation of the debris to collect.

ThomCat may explain further, I hope. This was a discussion I never had with Sperry.

Drive hard, bounce the battery around, knock off more material and accelerate the life span.  :(
 
In my 45 years of driving in Michigan I've never had a stock battery last more than 3 years. In the middle of winter it's the wrong time to find out it crapped out.

Cat Dancer I didn't know you sailed I have 25 ft Cat my Cuz just bought a 30 ft Cat his friend has a 34 ft, I can't post what kind of envy I have.
 
Rust on rear rockers, rust where front fender meets the bumper, and rust on the cab corners STILL on my '07 - this is retarded. Granted it has 160k miles, but this truck was repainted once already. Can no one do proper paint/body prep work anymore???  :E: :E: :E: :E:


When the truck payments are gone, I will probably have the truck stripped to bare metal, rust cut out and repaired, and re-spray OEM color again.

I can't see ever selling my AV because it has all the options and 6L power I will ever need, so keep and fix up what I have is the plan  :cool:
 
I dont like the paint job on my rear bumper, with mud and dirt and all hitting it over the years when I pressure wash it every now and then the paint on the bottom of the rear bumper is peeling up.
 
12,000 miles on my 13 and my frame is showing a LOT of surface rust.  The wax coating is just falling off.  Did a little research and found there is an issue with this.  Chevy even put out a TSB.  #PI0564D.
 
 
Gary D said:
12,000 miles on my 13 and my frame is showing a LOT of surface rust.  The wax coating is just falling off.  Did a little research and found there is an issue with this.  Chevy even put out a TSB.  #PI0564D.
 

Where is it showing rust?  I'd like to check out these areas on mine too.
 
Bigtrucklover said:
Where is it showing rust?  I'd like to check out these areas on mine too.

Pretty much every where the was coating is falling off.  Just surface rust but it has me little concerned.

Here is what the Chevy TSB says:

This is the TSB from GM


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


#PI0564B: Wax Coating on Frame Peeling, Metal Shows Corrosion/Rusting - (Jun 29, 2012)

Subject:

Wax Coating on Frame Peeling, Metal Shows Corrosion/Rusting

Models:

2011-2013 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT
2011-2013 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe
2011-2013 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This PI is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard PI0564A.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern


Some customers may comment that areas of the frame wax coating are peeling off and rust/corrosion is visible on the metal in these areas. Several examples of this condition are shown in the graphics below:

Recommendation/Instructions


A specialized metal coating product, Rust Bullet?, has been found to be the most suitable product to provide corrosion control and protection to address this type of repair. Our recommendation is to use the Rust Bullet? Automotive Formula* and the Rust Bullet BlackShell?* and that they must be applied according to the manufacturer?s procedures.
Important: To ensure proper coating performance, all of the manufacturer?s ?Applications Guidelines? MUST be followed.


Prep the frame and apply the Rust Bullet? Automotive Formula and the Rust Bullet BlackShell? coatings following the steps below:

1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in SI.

2. Remove any of the visible white labels on the frame (usually one per side), if labels are in the area to be reworked.

3. Determine a start and finish point on each side for the section/area of the frame to be repaired.

4. Using a rag and wax/grease removing solvent, remove the wax coating from the truck frame in the designated repair area. The graphic above shows an example of a small portion of the wax coating removed.


Important: Rust Bullet? coatings have strong adhesion qualities that provide outstanding results with little or no surface preparation prior to application. Rust Bullet? is designed to apply directly onto rusted or clean surfaces; however it is recommended to remove any loose flakes/scale of rust prior to application.

5. Any loose rust or loose flakes should be scraped, wire brushed or ground off.

6. Remove any residual wax, oil or rust by wiping the frame down with a Scotch-Brite? pad and wax/grease remover.

Important: The frame must be dry and free of wax/oily substances prior to application of the new coating.

7. Use an air hose to blow dry the frame.

Important: Protective clothing, gloves and eye protection are recommended during set up, application and clean up; it is extremely difficult to remove Rust Bullet? coatings from your skin after about 20 minutes. Also, pay close attention to the proper ventilation and stirring procedures outlined in the ?Applications Guidelines.?


Note: Rust Bullet? coatings may be applied by brush, roller or spray equipment. The brush on application is recommended for this type of repair.


Important: A second coat of Rust Bullet? Automotive coating must be applied to completely seal the first coat. Before applying the second coat, the first coat must be completely dry (approximately two to four hours) and should not be wet or tacky.

8. Apply two coats of the Rust Bullet? Automotive Formula by brush to all rusted and bare areas of the frame where the wax coating was removed. Ensure the first coat is allowed to completely dry before applying the second coat.

9. After following the manufacturer?s suggested optimum drying time for the two coats of Rust Bullet? Automotive Formula, brush on one or two coats of the Rust Bullet BlackShell? coating as required to achieve desired appearance. Though referenced as gloss black, the BlackShell? coating dries to a low gloss appearance.

10. Lower the vehicle and allow the final coat to dry as recommended by the manufacturer.



Parts Information


Obtain Rust Bullet? Automotive and Rust Bullet BlackShell? and the ?Application Guidelines? by contacting the website at http://www.rustbullet.com, or by calling 1-800-245-1600*. A pint can of each product will cover approximately 25 square feet as described in this PI, which should cover both sides of the center/low visual areas of the truck frame. A quart, covering approximately 50 square feet, would be necessary if extended lengths or a full frame were repaired.

Dealers in Canada: The Canadian distributor of Rust Bullet BlackShell? is KAP Corrosion Control and Servicing (kapcor.ca). Canadian orders may be placed by contacting Certified Tool & Supply Ltd. at 780-434-8711.

*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for, or assume any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may be available from other sources.

Warranty Information


For vehicles repaired under warranty, use Labor Operation below and include material cost.

Labor Operation

Description

Labor Time

B9978*

Remove Frame Wax, Apply Metal Coating

Use Actual Clock Time

*This is a unique labor operation for bulletin use only. It will not be published in the Labor Time Guide.

GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION

? 2012 General Motors. All rights reserved.
 
Do a google search on "GM frame rust" and see all the results.  It's amazing!
 
I called Rust Bullet today; they told me to take my 2013 back to the dealer and have them apply Rust Bullet products. The TSB is included on their website! She also told me that Rust Bullet can be applied to the various fasteners under the Avalanche to keep them rust free.

http://www.rustbullet.com/projects/gm-service-bulletin

Maybe this discussion can be moved to a thread devoted to paint/rust issues.
 
This discussion should be a sticky.  Not many people crawl under their AV and look for frame rust.  Everyone should be made aware.
 
I guess if there was one improvement I'd like to see, it would be turning radius.  I had a full size Jeep pickup, that had a great turning radius for it's size.
 
2013avalanche said:
Is this covered under gm warranty?

Yes, but when you see the half-assed job they do you'll want to take it somewhere else like a rustproofing place to have it done right.  The lot boy/oil changer that they assign to the job to isn't going to do the best of jobs.
 
May of mentioned  this  before  but the radio/stereo  only stays on 5 min or so when waiting  for the spouse to end her shopping at wally world, get the idiot lite saying low battery.
 
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