200,000 Mile Club

Capt.Crunch

Full Member
2010 LTZ, 226500 miles, I've replaced tires, brakes a couple of times, radiator a month ago, normal tune ups, changed the 145 amp alternator to a 160 amp, new battery new belts, new fuel tank straps (one rusted and broke), new rear magna-ride air shocks, new rear coil springs, new stainless steel flow master #40 mufflers and pipes and routine oil changes using full synthetic 5w30 Mobile-1 oil and she purrs like a kitten. 😁😁😁IMG_05291(2).jpg
 
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BainMan

Full Member
Love the look with those tires Capt Crunch! I'm envious! I just got new tires but went HT because I'm always on the road, but I really wanted something meaty like yours.
 

a745035

Full Member
2005 Z71, 207,000 miles. Seems if you keep throwing parts at them and catch problems early with keen ears and eyes, they'll GO, and GO and GO until mother nature reclaims them. (New England winter rot) Still on original hard brake lines, but they look awful and can go anytime.

I'm sure there's more, but off the top of my head...(in relative order, many aftermarket)
  • Trans rebuild/repaired under warranty at 34k miles
  • Water Pump
  • Interior Headlight/Dome light combo switch
  • Front Differential & CV Axles [used-junkyard] (While trying to replace leaking seals, mechanic broke diff. housing trying to remove frozen axle shaft - replaced with used and didn't replace those seals, which began leaking within a week.)
  • Front axle seals (1x) - by local Chevy dealer this time.
  • Fuel Pump
  • Transfer Case Shift Module
  • Front Hub Bearings (2x)
  • Evap. Vent Selenoid - Rear (2x)
  • Evap. Vent Selenoid - Front (1x)
  • Headlamp & Foglamp Housings (2x - aftermarket)
  • Battery (4x)
  • Shocks (3x)
  • Tires (3x)
  • Brake pads (7x+ - front/rear disparity)
  • Brake Caliper assemblies (1x)
  • Brake hoses (1x)
  • Pitman & Idler Arms (1x)
  • Inner & Outer tie-rod ends (1x - passenger only)
  • Alternator (3x)
  • Windshield (3x)
  • Driver's seat bottom cover (1x)
  • Tail Gate-Rear Door (1x) Composite material separated/broke while loading a quad)
  • Catalytic Converters (1x)
 

a745035

Full Member
2005 Z71, 207,000 miles. Seems if you keep throwing parts at them and catch problems early with keen ears and eyes, they'll GO, and GO and GO until mother nature reclaims them. (New England winter rot) Still on original hard brake lines, but they look awful and can go anytime.

I'm sure there's more, but off the top of my head...(in relative order, many aftermarket)
  • Trans rebuild/repaired under warranty at 34k miles
  • Water Pump
  • Interior Headlight/Dome light combo switch
  • Front Differential & CV Axles [used-junkyard] (While trying to replace leaking seals, mechanic broke diff. housing trying to remove frozen axle shaft - replaced with used and didn't replace those seals, which began leaking within a week.)
  • Front axle seals (1x) - by local Chevy dealer this time.
  • Fuel Pump
  • Transfer Case Shift Module
  • Front Hub Bearings (2x)
  • Evap. Vent Selenoid - Rear (2x)
  • Evap. Vent Selenoid - Front (1x)
  • Headlamp & Foglamp Housings (2x - aftermarket)
  • Battery (4x)
  • Shocks (3x)
  • Tires (3x)
  • Brake pads (7x+ - front/rear disparity)
  • Brake Caliper assemblies (1x)
  • Brake hoses (1x)
  • Pitman & Idler Arms (1x)
  • Inner & Outer tie-rod ends (1x - passenger only)
  • Alternator (3x)
  • Windshield (3x)
  • Driver's seat bottom cover (1x)
  • Tail Gate-Rear Door (1x) Composite material separated/broke while loading a quad)
  • Catalytic Converters (1x)
Honest truth here... in my post from this morning above I mentioned I was still running on the original brake lines. Well tonight while grabbing take-out, my brake pedal went to the floor and the brake pressure light went on just as I got parked at the establishment. Got out to see where it was leaking from and it was just pouring heavily (gravity-fed from the master cylinder) from a totally rust-rotted and crumbled line just about even with the driver's seat. Incredible timing? The power of suggestion? This repair could be expensive... appreciate any advice from those who've been here with their AVys. (TIA)
 

newavguy

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Honest truth here... in my post from this morning above I mentioned I was still running on the original brake lines. Well tonight while grabbing take-out, my brake pedal went to the floor and the brake pressure light went on just as I got parked at the establishment. Got out to see where it was leaking from and it was just pouring heavily (gravity-fed from the master cylinder) from a totally rust-rotted and crumbled line just about even with the driver's seat. Incredible timing? The power of suggestion? This repair could be expensive... appreciate any advice from those who've been here with their AVys. (TIA)

Been there done that except I was stopping for a traffic light.
Do you plan on fixing it yourself. ???
 

a745035

Full Member
I'd tackle a lot of things, but prolly not this. I'll look for someone local (and reasonable) to replace them. I just don't have experience with lines, flaring, flaring tools, or time for trial and error with this stuff. Would prefer the lines be copper this time, or something less likely to rot/pit/corrode.
 

newavguy

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Fair enough, I was going to mention that there still pre bent kits out there that are nylon coated. But it's a real pain to swap them yourself. Last I heard it's about 800-1000 bucks.to replace them.
 

junkyarddog

SM 2013
Full Member
Drove my 2002 Z66 320,000 sold in 2016 due to rocker panel rust, buyer still driving. Bought 2006 Southern Comfort with 135,000 on odometer, owned by golf course never driven in rain, underside was spotless, currently at 204,000. Knew when I bought 2006 it had a carrier bearing problem, found out drivers side bearing had spun in housing. Loctited new bearing in place and drove 70,000 miles before I had to replace entire housing. Just finished install of new housing.
 
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